A very thoughtful post.
As regards Rubinacci, they are foundational members of the LL Certified Artisan’s Program (CAP.) That means that the Neapolitan firm has been in the CAP as long as it has existed and even before. Many of today’s most ardent admirers received the advice to go no further than London House in their explorations of Naples from the then “spalla” (yours truly) of the old Yahoo LL site. This advice is as pertinent today as it was a few years ago as the firm clearly ranks among the best of the top ten in the sartorial world.The third generation of Rubinacci is following in the father Mariano Rubinacci footsteps !!
It is the admiration for another that compels one to be dutifully objective, anything less would be a sign of disrespect. The point of this article has been to point out varieties of imbalances that result in less than satisfactory dress. The article is not one about the maker. That being said, I will confess a preference for the shortcomings of the great as illustrations. It serves no purpose to query anything or anyone of lesser stature.
Sounds like you have a case of the sartorial spleen et ennui, cheer up. I am curious to know what you mean by being "at odds with my milieu." I tend to only be at odds with their husbands.As a final aside, the question of how classic bespoke clothing is worn, its statement, it's place and indeed, its entire relevance has increasingly become an issue to me.
This thought arises in particular within the context of recent travels which highlighted to me that most everything that I have had made - from suits and tweed sports coats, is pretty much unwearable: such clothing really does put me at odds with my milieu.
It's just not a corporate/tweed world out there anymore.
And a thick, tweed coat just takes up an awful lot of room in the suitcase as well!
Seriously, it is a great subject so let's continue this conversation on another thread.
I think if you were to insert the word "fashion" to replace bespoke tailoring, I would have to agree with you. They are the fashion marketing experts.Again, the Italians trump others in style by turning bespoke clothing rules and expectations on its head and re-stating what is relevant in bespoke today.
My experience is that Italians and French, once they can afford it, want to look as English as possible. They want Bentleys, houses in Scotland, horses, real furniture, gardens, Purdeys..etc There is an Anglo mania in Southern Europe that has not faltered for a few generations..remember our dear Mariano's father did name his shop "London House" and no one has or will change that name.
PS
Mariano is wearing a notch SB with patch pockets. I would have been amazed to see a SB peak with patch pockets from him.And Mariano also wears a SB Peak.