RIP, Kilgour

[alden]

this is not what I would wear, it would not suit me. However, there must be room for young cutters and tailors to experiment, there must be space for the Brandellis and the young apprentices on the Row as there has been space for a Tommy Nutter, a Richard James. If we insist that there should be no change, then I would declare the Row dead.

David,

From reading his bio it seems Brandelli was a shop keeper and merchandiser..neither a cutter nor a young apprentice like McQueen. His newest creations will be sold on Mr. Porter...another merchandiser. Birds of a feather...?

Ask Tom about his experience trying to teach tailoring and the young kids who couldn't be bothered to learn the craft because they were so keen to be rich designers. Whatever one wants to do in life, if one means to be successful and leave a mark, requires the sacrifice of craft. Brandellis design work looks like crap because it lacks craft. It doesn't lack design, it lacks craft. It is mindless.

I do not think SR is resistant to change..it is resistant to Ugly.

One final thought, you should not turn over the British Museum or Louvre to a young designer curator who will decide to spray paint the Mona Lisa to prove his modernity. You let the real young Turks do it on their own, challenge from the outside and if what they do sticks...Bravo! You do not turn over institutions like Kilgour and Huntsman to them gratis. Luckily, A&S was not turned over carte blanche to McQueen. We would have gained McQueen but lost A&S. Speaking of A&S, their business is booming unlike H or K. Queer, isn't it?

Cheers

Michael

[hectorm]

Speaking of A&S, their business is booming unlike H or K. Queer, isn't it?

Simple answer: the management and marketing strategies undertaken by the Rowlands at Anderson & Sheppard have been flawless and consistent for almost 40 years (particularly during Anda´s last 10). Meanwhile at Huntsman ....well....(and I don´t know much about Kilgour).
The newer more friendly but still traditional shop on Old Burlington was a good move. Also the courting of rich younger clients from Asia that appreciate a "real" British house and not one of global property.
Bespoke business, by its own nature, cannot be a cash-cow, so when A&S needed more revenue they move to some RTW and mainly the haberdashery on Clifford St. that attracts lots of women too.
The RTW has been done with caution, only on trousers, since Mr. Hitchcock convinced everybody that the quality and true style of their bespoke jackets couldn´t be reproduced off the peg without compromising their brand. The same precious brand that allowed them to expand successfully into shirts, knitwear and accessories (I have always liked their ties, haven´t you?).
Curiously, the difference between "booming" and "not booming" for a SR tailor house is very small in absolute terms. For A&S "booming" means a mere 4 million pounds in sales a year (their own numbers). Not impressive in other lines of business but very respectable when you think you would need to turn out something like a thousand suits a year to cover that amount just with bespoke.

[andreyb]

Here is how Kilgour's window looks at the moment:



A truly blank canvas -- devoid of the glorious past.

Andrey

[dopey]

The discussion in this thread makes me sad, at least as it applies to Huntsman. I am curious if anyone is aware of any real changes at Huntsman, as opposed to simply website redesign. There is some mention of departures - but does anyone have any real information? As far as I know, the people I have worked with - Peter Smith and Patrick Murphy - are still there, but that does not mean tailors have not left or that other cutters are gone. I have had one suit finished and delivered since the L'Roubi sale and there was certainly no drop off in quality. Moreover, the service was excellent. My wife and daughters picked it up for me in the shop, and they were treated well with as much a tour as they had time for. Had they more time on the hastily arranged visit, they would have been able to spend time in the workrooms seeing garments made. As is, my daughters were delighted with Mr. Smith showing them my patterns and explaining "this is your father on paper." As for the L'Roubi influence, maybe that is the reason and maybe it is not, but my wife still talks about how beautiful were the women's fabrics.

Certainly, I am suspicious of change and concerned with the weakening of the commitment to bespoke. I hope that isn't the case, but if anyone has any firsthand experience or direct information on the changes, I would be grateful to hear it.

[andreyb]

Some news: Campbell Carey, who left Kilgour a few years ago to become a co-owner of Douglas Hayward (and then completely ripped the company from its soul, making another Kilgour, just on Mount Street) will re-join "new" Kilgour to head their bespoke division.

Andrey

[smudger]

The discussion in this thread makes me sad, at least as it applies to Huntsman. I am curious if anyone is aware of any real changes at Huntsman, as opposed to simply website redesign. There is some mention of departures - but does anyone have any real information? As far as I know, the people I have worked with - Peter Smith and Patrick Murphy - are still there, but that does not mean tailors have not left or that other cutters are gone. I have had one suit finished and delivered since the L'Roubi sale and there was certainly no drop off in quality. Moreover, the service was excellent. My wife and daughters picked it up for me in the shop, and they were treated well with as much a tour as they had time for. Had they more time on the hastily arranged visit, they would have been able to spend time in the workrooms seeing garments made. As is, my daughters were delighted with Mr. Smith showing them my patterns and explaining "this is your father on paper." As for the L'Roubi influence, maybe that is the reason and maybe it is not, but my wife still talks about how beautiful were the women's fabrics.

Certainly, I am suspicious of change and concerned with the weakening of the commitment to bespoke. I hope that isn't the case, but if anyone has any firsthand experience or direct information on the changes, I would be grateful to hear it.

David Ward, has left the company as a senior cutter, i am also aware that (i think her name is) Pip or Poppy who was another cutter and had been there for many years has also left.
In addition to Mr Ward continuing to cut my suits, I am also a patron of Chittleborough and Morgan and i have been informed by Joe, that 4 of their in house tailors have left in protest of the new owners, therefore leaving 2 remaining in-house tailors. Apparently this seems common knowledge on the row. When i was in at C&R last, a cloth merchant came in and was reciting this very same story. I am truly saddened as Mr Smith must be smiling through his teeth presently. All this in under 12 months.......

[smudger]

Some news: Campbell Carey, who left Kilgour a few years ago to become a co-owner of Douglas Hayward (and then completely ripped the company from its soul, making another Kilgour, just on Mount Street) will re-join "new" Kilgour to head their bespoke division.

Andrey

I remember the Dougie Hayward shop prior to the take over by Mr Charlton and Mr Carey. It was like an old curiosity shop with so much character and warmth. It ended up
devoid of spirit and heritage after it was gutted to create, as you rightly point out another little Kilgour on Mount Street.

[dopey]

The discussion in this thread makes me sad, at least as it applies to Huntsman. I am curious if anyone is aware of any real changes at Huntsman, as opposed to simply website redesign. There is some mention of departures - but does anyone have any real information? As far as I know, the people I have worked with - Peter Smith and Patrick Murphy - are still there, but that does not mean tailors have not left or that other cutters are gone. I have had one suit finished and delivered since the L'Roubi sale and there was certainly no drop off in quality. Moreover, the service was excellent. My wife and daughters picked it up for me in the shop, and they were treated well with as much a tour as they had time for. Had they more time on the hastily arranged visit, they would have been able to spend time in the workrooms seeing garments made. As is, my daughters were delighted with Mr. Smith showing them my patterns and explaining "this is your father on paper." As for the L'Roubi influence, maybe that is the reason and maybe it is not, but my wife still talks about how beautiful were the women's fabrics.

Certainly, I am suspicious of change and concerned with the weakening of the commitment to bespoke. I hope that isn't the case, but if anyone has any firsthand experience or direct information on the changes, I would be grateful to hear it.

David Ward, has left the company as a senior cutter, i am also aware that (i think her name is) Pip or Poppy who was another cutter and had been there for many years has also left.
In addition to Mr Ward continuing to cut my suits, I am also a patron of Chittleborough and Morgan and i have been informed by Joe, that 4 of their in house tailors have left in protest of the new owners, therefore leaving 2 remaining in-house tailors. Apparently this seems common knowledge on the row. When i was in at C&R last, a cloth merchant came in and was reciting this very same story. I am truly saddened as Mr Smith must be smiling through his teeth presently. All this in under 12 months.......

That is indeed unfortunate. I like Peter and Patrick and have confidence in them, but I am also concerned if the supporting cast is no longer there.

[Badden]

Some news: Campbell Carey, who left Kilgour a few years ago to become a co-owner of Douglas Hayward (and then completely ripped the company from its soul, making another Kilgour, just on Mount Street) will re-join "new" Kilgour to head their bespoke division.

Andrey

Wow, So who cuts at Hayward now? I know that Campbell's original partner from Kilgour (I forget his name) now heads the bespoke offering at Alexander McQueen.

[alden]

I like Peter and Patrick and have confidence in them, but I am also concerned if the supporting cast is no longer there.
dopey

I have confidence in Peter and Patrick but are they calling the shots?

BTW Poppy is head of public relations at Huntsman. She is most likely on maternity leave. I hope so because she is a great asset to the firm and to Savile Row in general!

Cheers

Michael

[smudger]

Sadly, I have heard on the grapevine that Peter Smith is to leave Huntsman. The sinking ship has truly sunk.

[hectorm]

... Peter Smith is to leave Huntsman. The sinking ship has truly sunk.

Sad news indeed. While Mr. Smith is leaving, Huntsman now redirects its focus to selling shooting socks at GBP 400 a pair.
On the other hand, at least Patrick Murphy continues as Head Cutter, which -amongst all the chaos- guarantees excellent patterns for new clients and great fitting for everybody. He has confirmed his visit appointments in New York next month.
Regarding Huntsman RTW, my first impression -based on the few pieces I checked this past Christmas- is that the quality is superb. Although their style is a bit theatrical, exacerbating the style that has been the trade-mark of that house, and the prices -for off-the-rack garments- astronomical.

[Badden]

Sadly, I have heard on the grapevine that Peter Smith is to leave Huntsman. The sinking ship has truly sunk.

Any clue where he is headed? Back to Gieves?

[smudger]

I am told he is heading next door to Richard Anderson. I believe the term "more Huntsman than Huntsman" to be spot in. Irrespective of quality, I have been in to sample roubi l roubi's new designs. Although the quality might be present as the RTW before them and like all decent Savile Row RTW, the designs are appalling and devoid of the Huntsman DNA and does not reflect in anyway the heritage of the company. They are more suited, If you'll pardon the pun, placed in a shop window in Oxford St.

[gegarrenton]

Some news: Campbell Carey, who left Kilgour a few years ago to become a co-owner of Douglas Hayward (and then completely ripped the company from its soul, making another Kilgour, just on Mount Street) will re-join "new" Kilgour to head their bespoke division.

Andrey

Wow, So who cuts at Hayward now? I know that Campbell's original partner from Kilgour (I forget his name) now heads the bespoke offering at Alexander McQueen.

Richie Charlton left Hayward?