Advice wanted: re-building a wardrobe

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

ggreen
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Sun May 13, 2018 3:18 pm

"What if someone tries to steal the cap I made him off his head and he can't remedy things because his pants have no stride. Not good."

Don't forget the guy who stole the cap. He needs Frank's comfortable pants with "no pulling on the thigh" to make a run for it :)

Greg
old henry
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Sun May 13, 2018 3:49 pm

Greg, THANK YOU. Thank you for getting it. No skinny pants in my shop. . Funny guy too. I like it.
Last edited by old henry on Sun May 13, 2018 4:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
belimad
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Sun May 13, 2018 4:17 pm

If he steals my cap he better run, pants or no pants!!!
old henry
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Sun May 13, 2018 9:17 pm

Choke him out
L.deJong
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Mon May 14, 2018 1:00 pm

Most, if not all, discussions about the fit of a suit are actually about the trousers.
I think that wide legged trousers look best, maybe not for my posture/body but I like it because they are comfortable.
I'm from Europe where trousers are always a bit skinnier. The fact that a lot of teenagers walk in skinny fit trousers make me a little uncomfortable.
They really don't know what is flattering and comfortable and mock me dormy wide legged trousers. I politely decline there suggestion and walk on.
Ow and the ladies here in Europe are all wearing wide legged summer trousers, so menswear will follow that trend (if only some years later).
old henry
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Mon May 14, 2018 1:21 pm

Spot on ,Sir L. The only thing worse that a middle aged guy stuffed into a low rise European skinny suit, is a middle aged guy trying to sit in one.
A Trouser with more volume is style following function.
Function=Comfort=Elegant
davidhuh
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Tue May 15, 2018 2:49 am

L.deJong wrote: Ow and the ladies here in Europe are all wearing wide legged summer trousers, so menswear will follow that trend (if only some years later).
Dear L. deJong,

actually, the trend to wider trousers has reached men's wear 2 years ago... The movement is discreet still, but getting stronger.

Cheers, David
Jimmy9lives
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Tue May 15, 2018 8:36 pm

old henry wrote:Spot on ,Sir L. The only thing worse that a middle aged guy stuffed into a low rise European skinny suit, is a middle aged guy trying to sit in one.
A Trouser with more volume is style following function.
Function=Comfort=Elegant

I agree. I had some suits made when a few years back I was completely ignorant on the topic(no masters to learn from) by some 'pitti uomo' tailors and man it was just impossible to wear. The pants would always ride up.

What I get done now is a proper cut trouser but a little narrower closer to the bottom without being tight at all. I don't like the cuff to cover a lot of the shoe. Comfort level much higher.

EDITED
Last edited by Jimmy9lives on Thu May 17, 2018 11:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
old henry
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Tue May 15, 2018 10:00 pm

Hahahaaa. Too funny. But you're on the right track now.
belimad
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Tue Jul 03, 2018 12:26 pm

Quick update, with photos (some of them not ideal, I know, but it's what I had at hand).

Latest iteration of Frank's SB on 13oz Lesser's. I think it's perfect now. I love it :)

Image

Steed's 3-piece SB with LL Agnelli. I think it's turning out quite decent!

Image

Russell's (Graham Browne) original chalk stripe - we did a lot of work on the fit and the collar (based on Frank's input), and I think it's great now. it's probably my "go to" suit for travel here in Europe.

Image

Joaquin Fernandez Prats (Langa in Madrid), light-weight SB suit. This one still requires a bit more work, but it has turned out great.

Image

There's more behind the scenes, that I'll post as I do some pictures. I've been playing a lot with trousers' cuts, with Russell and Frank, with some interesting results.
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culverwood
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Tue Jul 03, 2018 1:20 pm

All good. The Graham Browne one looks like a great city suit. Buy 3!
old henry
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Tue Jul 03, 2018 2:26 pm

Nooooo. Buy three of mine :)
belimad
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Tue Jul 03, 2018 3:14 pm

old henry wrote:Nooooo. Buy three of mine :)
With one of yours I pay 3 of Russell's!!!! :D
old henry
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Tue Jul 03, 2018 3:42 pm

Ok. Ya got me there.
davidhuh
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Tue Jul 03, 2018 3:45 pm

Dear Mariano,

thank you for posting these pictures. I see a lot of progress here, congratulations 8)
I see a lot more of "you" now, bravo.

Cheers, David
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