A winter blazer

[yachtie]

Manself:

For a winter blazer, let's get the overhyped and least desirable fabric out of the way first, namely cashmere. The late Colin Hammock of Huntsman was of the opinion that every well-dressed man should have a navy blue reefer jacket of this cloth. Heaven knows why? It has no guts; and after ten wearings, it pills badly. Whether it's pure cashmere from Harrisons of Edinburgh or Loro Piana of Italy, neither of which is heavyweight, it has no longevity. Bespoke clothing should last.



JMB

I have a heavy cashmere SC form one of the Biella mills that is still going after 15 years of regular winter wear. No pilling ever, just the usual cuff and collar wear that one would expect of a well worn jacket. I'm finally replacing it with one made of 16/17 oz Minnis cashmere. I expect a similar lifespan- not bad for "luxury" goods. I imagine thin light weight cashmere's would behave differently. But light weight cashmere seems oxymoronic to me anyway.

[SMCK]

I seem to be a little late in discovering this thread.
I'm just wondering how you got on with your blazer Manself; which cloth did you eventually go for?
You said you found the Lesser's 18oz. midnight blue too dark , and were awaiting the 16oz. Or did you stick with the wholefleece?
What did you think of the 16oz?

I'm curious because I find myself thinking about a similar project.
Micheal Alden said that serge was the only thing for a blazer, so I'l go with that. I also got a sample of the midnight blue, The cloth is great but looks black as you say,only showing slightly blue when compared with black .It would look very smart as a jacket, but I think with trousers to match would look much too black; I'm thinking Armani but I am much too much of an old fogey to want that.
So I am still looking for the perfect navy serge, any advise appreciated.

[Manself]

I did go for the Smith's Whole Fleece (15oz) in the end, the results are very good and I recommend it both for the feel and the colour. Actually there's lots to say about the blazer because it's very structured and that's interesting to me because I normally go for softer clothes, but that will have to wait until I get it photographed and so can illustrate the point.

[tteplitzmd]

How about an H. Lesser woven cashmere navy blazer? I had one made and while it is a bit delicate, it is incredibly warm. Of course it's not of much use with the almost 3 feet of snow we've just had in Washington, DC.

[Concordia]

I did go for the Smith's Whole Fleece (15oz) in the end, the results are very good and I recommend it both for the feel and the colour. Actually there's lots to say about the blazer because it's very structured and that's interesting to me because I normally go for softer clothes, but that will have to wait until I get it photographed and so can illustrate the point.

Reviews on this fabric are very good, and the 3 or 4 colors they offer are very good. If I find myself needing a winter staple, that would be one of the better options, I think.

[MrC]

I am continuing an old thread in my search for the perfect winter-blazer worsted.

I want something that is warm (I live in Scandinavia where winter temperatures are absolutely freezing), but of course also as good looking as possible.

At this point I have narrowed my options down to these:

1. H.Lesser 16oz (29608)
2. P&B universal 20/21oz (74177)

My questions are:

1. The H.Lesser 16 oz is much appreciated, but what makes it better then the P&B universal?
2. Will the weight of the P&B universal be too much for a blazer? Will it look stuffed?



MrC

[alden]

The Lesser 16 is a great cloth and it would be my choice. I have a blazer suit made of old Lesser 19-20 ozs cloth and it is nothing short of magnificent (not available anymore sadly.) The heavier cloth is great for non overcoat days...or could do well for your climate. 16 ozs with a 30 ozs overcoat works well for frigid climes.

Michael

[MrC]

Thank you for your reply. The decision is made...H.Lesser it is! I am now looking foreward to my search for the perfect blazer-button...

MrC

[Simon A]

If you would like your own bespoke blazer buttons, you can try British Military Store http://www.britishmilitarystore.co.uk/b ... 43fbac3ca5

For a small charge, they will vector any image file you send them and engrave the gilt buttons with that design.

[alden]

Finding buttons with any real character is hard these days. You might visit local flea markets or vintage clothing shops to find old coats who buttons have charm conferred by a good patina.

Michael

[MrC]

Thank you for the input.

The british military store is a great idea and something I will pass on to my friends as well.
I have several blazers with metal buttons so this time I thought maybe something in mother of pearl, but then again mother of pearl would probably be better with a ligher coat.

MrC

[Jordan Marc]

C:

Sporrong of Sweden used to make and probably still does extraordinary blazer buttons, second only to the gilt metal and guilloche enamel buttons made by the artisans of Carl Faberge. Give Sporrong a
Google. Tender Buttons in New York City used to carry a range of Sporrong buttons. Might as well give
Tender Buttons a Google, too, to see what they have in stock. Unlike flat blazer buttons, which are
stamped in a press, Sporrong buttons are domed, handmade, meticulously detailed in high relief, and pricey.

JMB