Two jackets in process for me in LL fabrics

[soupcon]

Regardless of it's origins, it looks better with a rounded, open front,especially with his cut.Can he take in some of the width around the hips? The DB above has a beautiful lapel and full drape, but it also makes you look portly;maybe AS purists love that look,but why look frumpy for traditions sake?

[Aristide]

If one of the learned posters were to indulge me and provide a brief discussion of the "one piece back" (history, pros & cons), it would be truly appreciated. I've not seen this, although it makes perfect sense, especially with a bolder patterned cloth. Regards.

[dopey]

If one of the learned posters were to indulge me and provide a brief discussion of the "one piece back" (history, pros & cons), it would be truly appreciated. I've not seen this, although it makes perfect sense, especially with a bolder patterned cloth. Regards.

This is pretty much all there is to it. Some people like the look with a large pattern rather than the appearance of breaking the pattern with a seam. Raphael, in NY, does it quite often.

[Aristide]

If one of the learned posters were to indulge me and provide a brief discussion of the "one piece back" (history, pros & cons), it would be truly appreciated. I've not seen this, although it makes perfect sense, especially with a bolder patterned cloth. Regards.

This is pretty much all there is to it. Some people like the look with a large pattern rather than the appearance of breaking the pattern with a seam. Raphael, in NY, does it quite often.

I imagine the question that is begged, is why would a tailor split the cloth?

[voxsartoria]

Regardless of it's origins, it looks better with a rounded, open front,especially with his cut.Can he take in some of the width around the hips? The DB above has a beautiful lapel and full drape, but it also makes you look portly;maybe AS purists love that look,but why look frumpy for traditions sake?

You made me laugh, so I have to thank you, soupcon. We'll just have to disagree on the question of the quarters...would I be guessing correctly that you don't like the quarters on Michael's cashmere jacket earlier in this thread either?

As for looking portly in DeBoise, I hope it is not too much of a problem. Perhaps I am portly and he is bring out both the inner and outer me:



- B

[Costi]

The only disadvantage of a one-piece back is that less shaping is possible to conform the cloth to the curvature of the back, so the coat appears more "straight" especially viewed laterally. But that may not be an issue with a tweed jacket.

[Concordia]

... The DB above has a beautiful lapel and full drape, but it also makes you look portly...

I happen to know that VS weighs in at over 400 pounds. So it's actually a pretty neat trick that Ed is pulling off here.

[alden]

The DB above has a beautiful lapel and full drape, but it also makes you look portly;maybe AS purists love that look,but why look frumpy for traditions sake?

The word that comes to mind when I look at the gray DB is regal and I have a hard time reconciling this impression with either portly or frumpy.

I happen to know that VS weighs in at over 400 pounds

He weighed in at the club at 300 before Christmas, so he must have done a forklift's job of eating. Or was that kilos? The exchange rates are so confusing these days.

Cheers

M Alden

[voxsartoria]

I assure all of you that I am jolly.

Whether that is because my tailor grants me more gravitas, I cannot say.


- B

[voxsartoria]

I happen to know that VS weighs in at over 400 pounds. So it's actually a pretty neat trick that Ed is pulling off here.

When I am at my full sumo weight, I find that an overcoat is unnecessary even in the most Siberian winter.

- B

[shredder]

Regardless of it's origins, it looks better with a rounded, open front,especially with his cut.Can he take in some of the width around the hips? The DB above has a beautiful lapel and full drape, but it also makes you look portly;maybe AS purists love that look,but why look frumpy for traditions sake?

I am certainly not an A&S enthusiast, never mind purist, but I think the DB, as well as the SBs, are really rather nice and do not make VS appear portly or frumpy. In fact, so much so that I wonder whether the display settings on your monitor may be slightly different, a bit like watching analogue transmissions on wide-screen digital TV? If VS's face is as handsome as his suits, I'm not sure if I want him anywhere near my wife...

[Concordia]

He weighed in at the club at 300 before Christmas, so he must have done a forklift's job of eating. Or was that kilos? The exchange rates are so confusing these days.

Cheers

M Alden

Either way, it's a nice-looking suit.

[alden]

Bill

You can turn around now, you are making the LL wives nervous

[voxsartoria]

Bill

You can turn around now, you are making the LL wives nervous

When I've made the daughters nervous, then I will know that I have truly succeeded.


- B

[jefferyd]

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