Marinella Bias

[AlexanderKabbaz]

Alex, after noodling your answers, I have another question about selvedge. What is it in a fabric that determines the angle at which the selvedge is cut? Is it always parallel to the warp? the weft? Is there perhaps some other structural component in fabric that determines the line or angle of the selvedge? From Dopey's displayed tie with the silk ridges running vertically, it must be the case that the selvedge is not parallel to these ridges--if indeed the tie is cut on a bias to the selvedge--(although the two are parallel in the cloth that you displayed). This, in turn, would seem to suggest that the twill ridges in a fabric need not run parallel to the selvedge. Can you explain a little further here?

The selvedges are always the two edges of the woven fabric parallel to the warp. They range in size from virtually invisible to as much as 3/4". Selvedges are usually woven differently (stronger) than the bulk of the fabric to take the strain of the grippers which pull the cloth through the loom. Sometimes, the fabric is woven two or three times the intended finished width of the cloth and then "slit" into 2 or 3 rolls. In that case, you will see either one or no actual selvedges.

Twill ridges in a fabric can run at whatever angle the fabric designer wants them to. Refer to my Discourse on Shirtings article (http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=5447) for more on twills.

As an aside, no honest (bad word, perhaps, but I'll leave it) maker will construct a garment without cutting off the selvedge. Due to its different thread count than the rest of the cloth, it will react differently. The most noticeable different reaction will be a differing degree of shrinkage.

[Mulberrywood]

Great post Alex, most illuminating. How would a seven fold differ in its construction?

The tie pattern I photographed is designed to be lined with a wool interlining as are most better ties. (The less-than-better use non-wool interlinings).

The pattern for a seven-fold is larger as there is no interlining used. The silk is folded back over itself (a total of 7 folds) to give the tie weight and heft. Personally, I prefer lighter, wool-lined ties and thus do not make seven-fold ones.

Edit:
Perhaps David, who does this much more frequently than I, might post a link to his wonderful "How To Make A Necktie" description?

Alex, As usual has done a great job with his explanations. Here is the link to the article that he mentioned:

http://www.mulberrywood.com/necktie/how ... ecktie.htm

I have written quite a bit on various aspects of tiemaking (on a neighboring forum) but sadly the posts tend to vanish there....

I have started pulling together client emails, scraps of paper, diagrams, photos and various notes about tiemaking, and will be making a guide to bespoke tiemaking soon. At least a first draft....

[RWS]

. . . . I have written quite a bit . . . (on a neighboring forum) but sadly the posts tend to vanish there....

A good reason (if another were needed) to focus on the Lounge.