Overcoats/Raincoats

[Guest]

Jan - have you ever tried the Loro Piana "Storm System" cashmere? I have a topcoat made from it that I have been very happy with. It is lightweight (I live in Dallas) but it stops wind and rain very effectively.

For summer time I generally go with an umbrella because around here the temperature is so high on even rainy days that any additional layer of clothing would result in a medium-rare condition rather quickly.

You really can toss a bucket of water on the LP Storm System stuff and have it roll right off... but I'd be careful testing that on strangers as they might not find it funny

Best,
Chuck

[T4phage]

Dear Chuck,

I have indeed seen some coats made of the LP Storm System cashmere.. but most of the models I have seen tend to be mid thigh length and a somewhat more sporty model. I like the Allegri because of its extreme light weight, almost unwrinklable, and waterproof to boot.

As for the breathablility of it.... our summers are not that hot! , so it works fine.

Regards,
Jan

[manton]

I've heard of Ventile, the waterproof cotton. Didn't the RAF use it at one time?

Len Logsdail has a bunch of this in his shop. He told me that it was developed for the RAF. Apparently, it gave pilots shot down in the Channel or North Sea an additional 20 minutes before hypothermia set in, thus giving the rescue crews more time.

I didn't ask if he would make a bespoke raincoat out of it.

[T4phage]

I've heard of Ventile, the waterproof cotton. Didn't the RAF use it at one time?

Len Logsdail has a bunch of this in his shop. He told me that it was developed for the RAF. Apparently, it gave pilots shot down in the Channel or North Sea an additional 20 minutes before hypothermia set in, thus giving the rescue crews more time.

I didn't ask if he would make a bespoke raincoat out of it.

It must be a bugger to work with though... the tightness of the weave, etc. I wonder though if it will wrinkle? But if it is tightly woven, it should resist wrinkling to some extent...

[Guest]

I have looked at some of the lightweight technical fabrics that allow moisture to go out but not come in but I have yet to overcome my irrational fear of being caught in public wearing a synthetic.

I'd love to see some of that Ventile but I would imagine that around here it might cause on to spontaneously combust... which of course would damage both your suit and shoes and thus can't be seriously considered.

It would seem to make a great travel jacket for early spring though.

Good discussion and information, thanks!

[Minh]

I use an Umbrella

I have to agree with Michael. I prefer using an umbrella over wearing a raincoat. The fabrics of most raincoats -- rumpled cotton and artificial microfibre -- don't have the drape and elegance of the wool and linen used in suiting. The double-breasted Burberry, though it is considered a classic, has always struck me as too boxy and ill-fitting, as well as excessive in its detailing.

If it is cold and raining, I put on my chesterfield and carry an umbrella; if it is warm, I leave the coat at home.

Just one person's opinion,
Minh

[uppercase]

Yes, you are right, it seems to me a matter of one's personal style and taste.
Most of the time, I prefer a bit a contrast in my dress; rather than being fully put together from underwear to outercoat, combining, say, a rumpled raincoat or field jacket with a fresh suit can work.
After a while, one's appearance becomes less studied, less matched and consistent but more individual and personal.
Within the bounds of good taste and elegance, is the large arena where one can fully express one's individuality.
That individuality, I suppose, is developed through alert awareness of clothing, the environment and onself , coupled with quiet command of, and confidence in one's taste.

[zjpj]

I also like the Loro Piana Storm System. I have a wool Faconnable in the fabric.

I usually like to do what others here have suggested: forget the bulky jacket and just carry a gigantic golf-size umbrella, and try not to have to walk too far outside.

[Concordia]

Does anyone have access to the Loro Piana Storm System fabric for use in bespoke tailoring? I'd heard, for example, that Marty Greenfield makes a lot of the RTW versions of this coat. Is a topcoat made from it an option, for example, on his semiannual Brooks Bros tour?

[smoothjazzone]

In short -- yes. Brooks in NY (346 Madison) carries the Storm System fabric book all year long. I am sure any custom tailor could get his/her hands on it they so desired.

Does anyone have access to the Loro Piana Storm System fabric for use in bespoke tailoring? I'd heard, for example, that Marty Greenfield makes a lot of the RTW versions of this coat. Is a topcoat made from it an option, for example, on his semiannual Brooks Bros tour?

[Leonard Logsdail]

The Storm System fabric can be obtained by custom tailors through Loro Piana. It's a great fabric - if, of course, you want a waterproof cashmere topcoat! Personally, I'd rather wear cashmere when appropriate and raiwear, well, when it rains.


As for Ventile, I make a fair amount of safari and shooting clothes from this fabric. And, yes, it is quite difficult to work with. The tightness of the yarn and weave make it very difficult to put a needle through. That said, if you need a fabric that is lightweight, natural and waterproof, I'm not sure what else you might use. It's perfect for safari coats. I wear Ventile trousers and shooting vest when out shooting. It's versatile and quite comfortable, even in Houston recently. I've have an olive, Ventile field coat in the store at the moment with yellow deerskin collar and trim. It's weight and functionality has made it a hit, I'm pleased to say. I believe it is still used by the Royal Naval airforce in the UK for jump suis.

Leonard

[T4phage]

As for Ventile, I make a fair amount of safari and shooting clothes from this fabric. And, yes, it is quite difficult to work with. The tightness of the yarn and weave make it very difficult to put a needle through. That said, if you need a fabric that is lightweight, natural and waterproof, I'm not sure what else you might use. It's perfect for safari coats. I wear Ventile trousers and shooting vest when out shooting. It's versatile and quite comfortable, even in Houston recently. I've have an olive, Ventile field coat in the store at the moment with yellow deerskin collar and trim. It's weight and functionality has made it a hit, I'm pleased to say. I believe it is still used by the Royal Naval airforce in the UK for jump suis.

Leonard

Thank you for the explanation regarding Ventile Mr. Logsdail. Does its tightness of weave also help combat against wrinkles? Would such a fabric make for a good lightweight topcoat?

Regards,
Jan

[Guest]

I understood that Loro Piana Storm System is cohomprensive of a cotton waterproof version. Anyone can confirm this?

Giona Granata.

[Leonard Logsdail]

[

Leonard[/quote]
Thank you for the explanation regarding Ventile Mr. Logsdail. Does its tightness of weave also help combat against wrinkles? Would such a fabric make for a good lightweight topcoat?

Regards,
Jan[/quote]


I have to say that, when wearing the trousers, they do not wrinkle as much as regular cotton. But they do wrinkle.

I am making a full length field coat for a client at the moment and consider it perfect for what he wants. As for a topcoat, I do not think its appearance is refined enough. If you send me a mailing address I will be happy to supply you with a small piece for consideration. I you decide you like it I will supply your tailor with contact details so that he can purchase some.

Leonard

[T4phage]

Mr. Logsdail, thank you for the kind offer.