Overcoat or dinner suit?

[yasu10s]

Is it necessary to get a vest or cummerbund for SB? Is it acceptable to wear a linen shirt underneath?

i also wanted to know if its acceptable to have 1/4 lining on the jacket.

[davidhuh]

Is it necessary to get a vest or cummerbund for SB? Is it acceptable to wear a linen shirt underneath?

i also wanted to know if its acceptable to have 1/4 lining on the jacket.

Dear Yasu,

a waistcoat is a must for SB; the cummerbund is an option for some (I don't like it). A linen shirt is fine. Regarding lining: you can do it without lining. However, reduced lining makes only sense for a summer dinner suit in light material. For your first dinner suit, you need something "middle-of-the-road". Reduced or no lining could be considered with your second or third dinner suit.

You see a shawl collar trend? I am happy to see it more frequently. The reason why it almost disappeared has likely more to do with bespeaker's ignorance or the fact that it is more difficult for cutter and tailor than anything else. It is a beautiful and classic style after all.

Perhaps you do some reading. Search "black tie" and "dinner suit" on this forum or read this concise guide: http://www.ties.com/blog/formal-dress-c ... dress+code
(Note: not all photographs are best inspiration, but the text is good and concise)

Cheers, David

[YoungLawyer]

"As for waiting for a dress code, when 'Lounge Suit' or Black Tie isn't specified I will generally wear my DJ when I think it will be appropriate, even if some others are wearing lounge suits. I'm happier over-dressed."

Good advice. One sort or another of my evening kit in London gets an outing about once a week, on average, except in the middle of summer, without being overdressed or even conspicuous.

I'd go for one button, peak lapel, with a 'U-shaped' waistcoat, with 4 buttons, and in black, not midnight. I think that's the most classic to my eye, and suited both slimmer 1920s cut, and the broader 1930s cut, equally, so seems to suit any figure well. Also, to my eye (and this is a matter of pure personal opinion, and there is strong historical, and very smart, precedent for both shirt options, but), the peak lapel goes equally well with both wing and turn-down collar, whereas I'd say that the shawl lapel looks better with a turn-down. If you were to choose a shawl collar, the current trend is for very skinny shawl collars - I'd have made one in a sensible width.


"Why not wear a dark blue lounge suit with a black tie this time around".
I wouldn't advise it. That reminds me strongly of the opening scenes of 'Kind Hearts and Coronets'! - Why choose to do that?!

[arch]

My suggestion was simply a practical one in response to the question of which item to order, a dinner suit or an overcoat. For example:

http://asuitablewardrobe.blogspot.co.uk ... acket.html

It was not meant to be an ideal. Given the means, of course it would be best to have both items made.

[yasu10s]

Hi arch,

I am thinking about getting a faux dinner suit. If i do it, should i not get the bottoms of the trousers cuffed?

Yasu