The ultimate polo coat

[jonathans]

Dear friends,

I am considering placing an order for a polo coat for next fall (I have plenty of time).

The fabric for a polo coat, of course is camel-colored. Perhaps you can do a camelhair, cashmere or even vicuña.

Now, on to the styling details. Let’s start with the front & then move to the back details.

Front; (this is what I’m currently thinking, but open to discussion.)
My thought is a db 6x2 peak lapel front, with envelope pockets, and a bar Jetta chest pocket.
You could argue for the doppio uso / ulster lapels, and I wouldn’t fault you either way. Perhaps there is room in the wardrobe for both eventually?

For me personally, I’m using the LL cashmere for an ulster, so peaks make sense for a polo coat. But I could be convinced otherwise.

There are 3 photos which come to mind: the Duke of Windsor (peak), Gianni agnelli (ulster), & the guy from London whose name I’m forgetting. Although the last gentleman had ulster lapels combined with raglan sleeves.

Feel free to contribute.

Back details:

Simply a martingale back, with an inverted center pleat, and pleats on the side for move movement.

Other details;

Gauntlet cuffs, raglan sleeve vs. in set sleeve (I think I prefer in set sleeve)

Also, perhaps most importantly, silhouette: I think a softer silhouette would serve the character of a polo coat better. I was thinking of using my Florentine tailor. Removing the front dart, imo, lends itself well to the character of a polo coat.

Perhaps, as I mentioned there is room for 2 polo coats in one’s wardrobe. But I am slowly & methodically building out my wardrobe. I think, after polo, will be a tweed ulster, perhaps in a pattern.

All the best,
Jonathan

[alden]

For a Polo I would go simple martingale, inverted center pleat, pleats on side, doppio uso collar, soft construction, set sleeve, gauntlet cuffs are ok if the cloth is not too thick....

I have had many DB overcoats over the years and now I am down to four, only one Polo. SB overcoats get a lot more use. They are so much easier to live with, lighter, easier to carry around, on planes, in taxis etc. There is nothing more chic than a great DB overcoat but they are a bit more cumbersome.

[jonathans]

Thanks Michael,

I’m on the same wavelength as you, with the one exception being peak lapels vs. doppio uso lapels.

It’s something I’m thinking about. Obviously, with expensive purchases, you don’t want to make a mistake. My reasoning for peak over doppio uso was that I already had a doppio uso lapel coat coming with the London lounge cashmere. (And I’d eventually like to add a tweed ulster really foul weather, when I don’t want to wear the LL cashmere.)

But, perhaps, that is okay: I eventually want to do a chesterfield coat with an inset velvet on the collar, made with peak lapels for formal occasions (black tie).

Doppio uso lapels have more versatility to dress down than peaks, which is a strong argument for them. I don’t think either is “wrong,” - it’s just a matter of taste. I’ve gone back & forth, probably because neither is wrong.

Cheers,
Jonathan

[alden]

I think peak lapels look best on a very pared down, essential and slim cut DB or SB overcoat for evening wear. The fineness of the peaks clashes a bit with the bulky heavy set character of a Polo with its post box patch pockets and rolled back sleeves etc. You have a lot of weight in the mid range and then suddenly very fine up top. This juxtaposition creates an immediate imbalance to my eye. But give it a try, you might be pleased by it.

Cheers

[Concordia]

Possibly mitigated by shape of the lapel. But a useful caution to keep in mind.

[Nem500]

Hi Jonathan,

I had a similar dilemma a few years back when I got my polo coat in camel hair. I decided to go with peak lapels, albeit with the peak being fairly flat, primarily because I prefer this design. There are plenty of polo coats with peak lapels or with ulster collars.

I agree that the feel should be somewhat slouchy, and less rigid than a guard's coat.
The other design details are more or less the same ones you've listed:
Back: Martingale back, inverted centre pleat and side pleats.
Front: Wide peak lapels almost parallel to the floor, Post box pockets, turn-back cuffs, standard breast pocket, set in sleeve.

One final point, if you want to wear the collar up, best let the tailor know. Mine was initially too weak and a fair bit of work had to be done to strengthen the collar so it wouldn't collapse under the weight of the fabric.

After four winters, I can say I'm very happy with it. Indeed, this coat is probably the one that gets the most praise.

I hope this helps.

Here are some pictures:
Front polo by N M, on Flickr

Polo Back by N M, on Flickr

[davidhuh]

Hi Jonathan,

I had a similar dilemma a few years back when I got my polo coat in camel hair. I decided to go with peak lapels, albeit with the peak being fairly flat, primarily because I prefer this design. There are plenty of polo coats with peak lapels or with ulster collars.

I agree that the feel should be somewhat slouchy, and less rigid than a guard's coat.
The other design details are more or less the same ones you've listed:
Back: Martingale back, inverted centre pleat and side pleats.
Front: Wide peak lapels almost parallel to the floor, Post box pockets, turn-back cuffs, standard breast pocket, set in sleeve.

One final point, if you want to wear the collar up, best let the tailor know. Mine was initially too weak and a fair bit of work had to be done to strengthen the collar so it wouldn't collapse under the weight of the fabric.

After four winters, I can say I'm very happy with it. Indeed, this coat is probably the one that gets the most praise.

I hope this helps.

Here are some pictures:
Front polo by N M, on Flickr

Polo Back by N M, on Flickr

Dear Nahuel,

that's a beauty, congratulations! Very well done! Your polo blood may have helped getting this right?

Cheers, David

[jonathans]

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2cZJmPo ... EzYmMxYg==

https://www.instagram.com/p/C17KLJzokpL ... EzYmMxYg==

I came across this coat, made where my Florentine tailor was trained. Man. That is a great looking coat - I think that is very convincing.

[alden]

I came across this coat, made where my Florentine tailor was trained. Man. That is a great looking coat - I think that is very convincing.

The way that coat is worn is a real pity.

If you think you will be wearing a coat in conditions where you will want to hike up the collar, then by all means get a storm collar (doppio uso.) It is constructed to be rolled up. Hiking up a collar that is meant to remain flat is neither convincing nor elegant. It looks unkept, not chic. And it shows the wearer does not understand dress.

[Bwooster]

Would consider perhaps nixing the breast pocket on this set up too, my tailor suggested going without on my polo coat and really find it looks a lot less crowded/more elegant.

[alden]

Would consider perhaps nixing the breast pocket on this set up too, my tailor suggested going without on my polo coat and really find it looks a lot less crowded/more elegant.

Yes, a good call

[jonathans]

Would consider perhaps nixing the breast pocket on this set up too, my tailor suggested going without on my polo coat and really find it looks a lot less crowded/more elegant.

Oh interesting, I have to think about that.

I need to think about it. I always envisioned it with a barchetta pocket. But now I’ll have to think about it.

[Nem500]

While we’re on the issue of pockets: I added a deep low inside pocket (below the inside breast ones) to keep my gloves in. Could be useful.

[jonathans]

So I’ve narrowed it down. Now, the question is do I used a Milanese tailor or Florentine tailor?

I’m leaning toward Florentine:
1. To me a polo should be soft, with a slightly extended shoulder & no front dart.
2. My Milanese tailor is making my ulster with the LL cashmere.

Thoughts?
Also the fabric will be around 500grams. IMO, a great compliment to the 1kg cashmere. Ironically, I’m planning to move to Florida, so I’m not sure what I’m doing ordering a 1kg cashmere, BUT, it’ll be great when I need to go up north which will be semi frequently.

[jonathans]

And one final thought:

On Michael, suggestion, I think I’ll go for ulster lapels, martingale back, inverted pleat.

Maybe turnup cuffs on the sleeves (not sure, I’ll leave that to the tailor) & probably envelope pockets because it’s a 500g cashmere & vicuña blend fabric.

Strongly leaning toward my Florentine tailor to have it made up, but I could also be convinced to try qemal selimi & go for a liverano doppio uso. But, I think I’m best off going with what I know.

One other detail that popped into my head: what about a raglan sleeve with the ulster lapels? Or perhaps, I’ll do a different coat with raglan sleeves (I like coats).