Being stylish in hot weather

[Raglan]

Dear all,

I need inspiration and where else best to go than LL?

There's a good chance that I'll be moving from temperate Paris to hot and humid Hong Kong. For those of you who are familiar with the territory, the weather is rather tropical for almost 9 months of the year.

The question is therefore the following: Given total free rein, what would your ideal wardrobe be for such weather? How can one dress with panache, bearing in mind Thomas Mahon's article on fabrics, and Etutee's inspiring posts on Summer and Resort Wear from AA? Please feel free to design, describe, and detail your ideal wardrobe - both business / formal and casual wear for Hong Kong.

I ask because I have heaps of clothing for English and French weather (lots of worsteds, flannels) and not a jot for Hong Kong. I suppose I could wear these 11/12 oz suits under air conditioning, but I am looking for an excuse to expand the wardrobe (and in a creative and stylish way) - so let's hear from the members on what they would be wearing!

Happy holidays

Raglan

[Will]

10 oz unlined fresco single breasteds combine drape and breathability. 10 oz. mohair, for evening. 14 oz unlined linen for casual days. And, since one must, 8 oz. worsteds which I find don't live as long and are awfully prone to wrinkling.

[TVD]

Get the J J Minnis and Holland & Sherry fresco books for inspiration. Quite a few rather pleasant suitings are available.

Superfine tropical weaves (more lightweight than Fresco but less breathable) are available from most houses, but Lesser, Scabal and Smith come to my mind. An element of mohair is most desirable if you like the sheen and crispness it gives.

Definitely a lightweight dinner suit. There are lightweight baratheas in S100s (I cannot recall but it is either Smith or H&S) around, or again a tropical mohair weave.

I would do a bit of preparation to know which cloth you want, have one or two things made in London to tidy you over, and then enjoy the opportunity to up the game of HK's tailoring trade. Please report back on your findings.

[whyescalar]

Raglan-

Why not wait till you arrive to HK? I have a boss whose tailor is Huntsman & Sons; swears HK Chinese tailors craft the best warm-weather suits. He has facsimiles made there, in lighter cloths. Selection runs the gamut.

HK Chinese tend to be very conservative dressers in business [blues & greys], and place an emphasis on quality purchases, both bespoke and "designer." The expat community is a bit more casual, however savvy (Re: HSBC-types) westerners are always well turned out as it really is appreciated by the Chinese. This is especially true at social, really business venues like the China Club, owners' enclosure and stewards boxes at both Jockey Club tracks, and evening functions at the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club (who still keep the "Royal" prefix). Every person has their favorite tailor. Make it clear to whomever you select you are a resident, and have ample time for multiple fittings. The quick turnaround, even in some of the best establishments, comes from a desire to please.

A-Man Hing Cheong, in the Mandarin Oriental, Central, is the one my aforementioned boss uses. Jimmy Chen in the Peninsual Arcade (over in Kowloon) makes splendid bespoke, casual shirts. They match the Hilditch button-down collar.

Enjoy a great city. Kung Hei Fat Choy!

[kolecho]

I am based in HK. Average temperature in fall/winter is in the high teens, Celsius. Spring/summer averages in high 20s C, and it is humid. Most men wear suits for business in HK. Dark worsteds between 7-10oz are common. I agree with Will that lightweight cloth lack longevity. When I next commission spring/summer suits, I will try some 10oz frescos and mohair.

The big three bespoke tailors in HK are WW Chan, A-Man Hin Cheong, and Baroman. I use Chan exclusively and have been very happy with their service. I was tempted to try A-Man, but decided to stay with Chan for now. I have no idea about Baroman, but I hear it is the dearest of the big three.

PM me if you would like to chat further. It would be great to have you in HK!

[Raglan]

Thank you all for your wonderful replies. I will look into the fabrics and tailors that you have suggested. I had not realised that local craftsmen had the edge in lightweight tailoring. I'm a customer of Anderson & Sheppard, and thought that their looser fitting garments would be very well suited to the Hong Kongese climate... Nevertheless, it makes sense that local tailors would know what they are doing vis-a-vis hot weather style!

Happy Chinese New Year!

[JLibourel]

I have so far ordered on suit and two jackets from W.W. Chan via their U.S. order tours and have been extremely satisfied. In fact, I just placed an order this very day for a third jacket (a dark forest green blazer). Presumably I would be even more satisfied after multiple fittings, but after they had "tweaked" my pattern after my first order, it would be hard for me to see how they could improve matters appreciably.