DB Blazer

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Melcombe
Posts: 317
Joined: Tue May 03, 2011 9:30 am
Location: Dorset, UK
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Wed Apr 10, 2019 7:21 pm

Apologies - this post began as a reply to some of the points that were raised in the thread reviewing the beautiful DB coat crafted by Old Henry, and seems to have split off.

Anyhoo, I have discovered psychic powers... Previously these manifested themselves when - say - I decided, sitting in traffic, that I would pull into that petrol station up ahead. Invariably every car in front of me would then have the exact same idea and I would end up waiting an extra quarter hour while they did their grocery shopping along with paying the cashier.

The same is happening with this place. I have an idea for a project, then a month after I place an order there's a helpful discussion on that topic. I order a whipcord change coat / sports jacket and mere weeks later, Mr A is floating the idea of a LL whipcord.

Now I decide that I need a DB blazer and the very week after I collect it, here we are chewing the cud on just the points I had been mulling over 2 months back. Oh well. This is what I collected :

Image

My perennial problem is having very thick set shoulders. By all receved wisdom, I should avoid DB, but I do like the idea, even if some of my past acquisitions - especially off the peg - have been less than flattering.

I liked the idea of 'lapels that mean business' and vaguely suggested whis was what I wanted to my tailor. The position here is that I am loath to be overly prescriptive as leaving detals to his discretion usually results in a very positive outcome. I wanted patch side pockets - it's a blazer not a suit jacket after all, and picked the heaviest merino basket weave that was knocking around (16+ oz?) - it would have made a reasonable light overcoat, but it's remarkably soft. The finished coat weighs about 2Kg. (The raw horn buttons were my idea -ok, maybe I should have left that to him too).

Im very glad that his overriding achievement, in my opinion, is balance. And i do like the belly on the lapels - it's what he does and I came to terms with it long ago. For my part Im absolutely delighted with every aspect, including having been talked into double vents rather than my default single.




Oh, and if anyone wants their lottery numbers picking, my psychic powers are at your disposal for a modest share!..
old henry
Posts: 969
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:34 pm
Location: Clayton New York
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Wed Apr 10, 2019 11:54 pm

You are made for a DB. You are built for a DB. There are a lot if ridiculous theories and all sorts of unfounded sartorial conclusions drawn up by experts out there. You perfect for a DB as is anyone if itโ€™s done right. And this baby %100 done right. It is unforced and classic. Change nothing on the next one.
Last edited by old henry on Thu Apr 11, 2019 10:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
L.deJong
Posts: 66
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Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:46 am

Great coat!

Buttons are not my cup of tea (but maybe it's the photo that makes the yellowish?), maybe go for brass? they age soo nicely.
alden
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Thu Apr 11, 2019 9:05 pm

Very handsome coat. I have one that looks very similar sewn in Cavalry Twill. Very useful garment.

Cheers
old henry
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Thu Apr 11, 2019 10:09 pm

L,dejong what about the rest of the coat ? That amazing coat ? Do you understand what your eyes see ? A remarkably made coat ? Or just buttons. Who cares about the buttons? Seriously ? The coat is astounding. Do you know that ? Buttons? Slap ๐Ÿ‘‹
L.deJong
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Fri Apr 12, 2019 6:48 am

old henry wrote: โ†‘
Thu Apr 11, 2019 10:09 pm
L,dejong what about the rest of the coat ? That amazing coat ? Do you understand what your eyes see ? A remarkably made coat ? Or just buttons. Who cares about the buttons? Seriously ? The coat is astounding. Do you know that ? Buttons? Slap ๐Ÿ‘‹
Well, a beautiful coat deserves great buttons. :D

The coat is great!!!!!
old henry
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Fri Apr 12, 2019 12:20 pm

At a boy ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚. ( I like the buttons )
davidhuh
Posts: 2030
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Fri Apr 12, 2019 5:12 pm

Dear Melcombe,

well done, congratulations! Beautiful proportions - make the coat have many babies!

Cheers, David
rodes
Posts: 426
Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 4:28 pm
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Sat Apr 13, 2019 12:26 am

I have a bean pole frame and thanks to the London Lounge, began wearing DB suits perhaps 10 years ago. I really like them especially in winter. Now, perhaps half of my suits are DB. Aesthetically, I actually favor them over SB. Yet, I have no DB blazer. Thank you for the idea,
Screaminmarlon
Posts: 920
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
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Tue Apr 16, 2019 3:52 pm

I really like this DB, harmoniously cut and sewn on your shape. Bravi!
Melcombe
Posts: 317
Joined: Tue May 03, 2011 9:30 am
Location: Dorset, UK
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Thu Apr 18, 2019 8:45 pm

Screaminmarlon wrote: โ†‘
Tue Apr 16, 2019 3:52 pm
I really like this DB, harmoniously cut and sewn on your shape. Bravi!
Thank you for that kind comment - and the others above from fellow LL'rs.

My tailor happens to be Milanese - he's been in the UK since the 1960s . I pass on the positive comments from here, and he's absolutely thrilled that folk around the world see his work and appreciate what goes into it. My amateur eye detects a Northern Italian style to a lot of his work - I do remember speaking with him a few years ago about Neapolitan tailoring, his restrained (with some effort!) critique of tight, unstructured jackets and short trousers bring a smile to my face every time I think about it.

I saw him yesterday morning, he was proudly babysitting his teenage grandson in his workshop (while sewing a coat for a client with a 60 inch chest - that's a LOT of stitching). The young lad was glued to his iphone, but I noticed he was taking in interest in Grandpa's work. Let's hope he doesn't leave it too long to decide to learn the craft..
Screaminmarlon
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Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:56 am
Location: Milan, Italy
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Thu Apr 25, 2019 10:01 am

It might be like saying bad things about God in a church, but I actually prefer milanese tayloring over neapolitan. Maybe the best of both worlds is Caraceni Rome, but if I have to choose Iโ€™d stick with my beloved milanese tradition :shock:
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