An Oldtailorways DB by Old Henry
I can't think of a better subject for an Inaugural new LL, post upgrade forum post than to discuss this coat that I happened to see on FB the other day.
Old Henry is back to his oldtailorways again and as you can see the result is pretty special. If you want to print out a photo of what a DB should look like, print this one and tape it to your refrigerator.
%oLrrJGQTuy4+6FHjWTOLA_thumb_9c0 by The London Lounge, on Flickr
Where to begin? Well, with the lapels. I think these are referred to by the Master as “f___ you” lapels for their imposing, in your face breadth. But it’s not the size of the lapels you need to look at, it’s the great balance. Start from the button point, and notice the rich roll that forms right from the get go, and grows steadily to a picture perfect, high set (correctly set) notch. For all you Bentley salesman out there, this is a real man's lapel. No curves, no bends, no fussing here.
The second subject of your focus should be the wide (correct) overlap and button set. I’ve been saying this for years, but most of you allow your tailors to straight-jacket you in narrow sets with buttons that are too close together. The top button on this DB is lodged on the other side of the North 40 where it belongs, not cramped right next to his cousins.
A great shoulder makes a great coat. And these shoulders are among the best I have seen.
So there you have it. The next time you look at a DB pay close attention to the balance of the lapels, the breadth of the overlap and button set, and the shoulder. If all of those things look anything like the example above, you’ve got yourself a great DB coat.
I hope this is going to an LL member and that we will see photos of it soon being worn in great Style.
Well done Old Henry!
Cheers
Old Henry is back to his oldtailorways again and as you can see the result is pretty special. If you want to print out a photo of what a DB should look like, print this one and tape it to your refrigerator.
%oLrrJGQTuy4+6FHjWTOLA_thumb_9c0 by The London Lounge, on Flickr
Where to begin? Well, with the lapels. I think these are referred to by the Master as “f___ you” lapels for their imposing, in your face breadth. But it’s not the size of the lapels you need to look at, it’s the great balance. Start from the button point, and notice the rich roll that forms right from the get go, and grows steadily to a picture perfect, high set (correctly set) notch. For all you Bentley salesman out there, this is a real man's lapel. No curves, no bends, no fussing here.
The second subject of your focus should be the wide (correct) overlap and button set. I’ve been saying this for years, but most of you allow your tailors to straight-jacket you in narrow sets with buttons that are too close together. The top button on this DB is lodged on the other side of the North 40 where it belongs, not cramped right next to his cousins.
A great shoulder makes a great coat. And these shoulders are among the best I have seen.
So there you have it. The next time you look at a DB pay close attention to the balance of the lapels, the breadth of the overlap and button set, and the shoulder. If all of those things look anything like the example above, you’ve got yourself a great DB coat.
I hope this is going to an LL member and that we will see photos of it soon being worn in great Style.
Well done Old Henry!
Cheers
Thank You Michael. Very much. That’s a mans suit. But the man will show through. And yes , no Belly on the lapel. You’ll have to go A&S for that.
Truly beautiful DB. I would much rather have it on my shoulders than on my fridge . Beefy high collar that works with those lapels. Perfect button placement. I only wish we could see it on the lucky owner and see the back as well.
No better way to celebrate reopening of LL than with this great work of a living working tailor that stands up to what was made decades ago and is long long gone.
Greg
No better way to celebrate reopening of LL than with this great work of a living working tailor that stands up to what was made decades ago and is long long gone.
Greg
GregTruly beautiful DB. I would much rather have it on my shoulders than on my fridge . Beefy high collar that works with those lapels. Perfect button placement. I only wish we could see it on the lucky owner and see the back as well.
No better way to celebrate reopening of LL than with this great work of a living working tailor that stands up to what was made decades ago and is long long gone.
Well most of us will have to make due with the fridge because a craftsman working at these quality levels can only make very few garments reserved for a very happy few. Nonetheless, just seeing work like this is an inspiration for all of us who admire tailors and tailoring. And, yes, we certainly should add that regal collar to the list of must haves for the ideal DB. Good eye.
Cheers
Technically, these are the “f**k you 2.0” lapels
The FU v1.0 belong in the other DB suit Frank made for me. These are the new and improved!
I promise to post some pics as soon as the bloody customs agency clears the suit for delivery.
The FU v1.0 belong in the other DB suit Frank made for me. These are the new and improved!
I promise to post some pics as soon as the bloody customs agency clears the suit for delivery.
M, so it’s YOU….again! Trying to corner the global Benchmade tailoring market, are we? I applaud you. And I thank you for supplying such good material for our first post after the LL upgrade.
Well it’s great to know that this Excalibur of DB coats is going to stay in the LL family, and go to a young man who will get decades of use from it. It pleases me greatly to see smart young guys in the LL take advantage of an unusually great opportunity to work with one of the very last Benchmade tailors.
And, best of all, we know this great coat is going to fit its wearer perfectly. So it’s up to you now to wear it well , and I am sure you will. I look forward to seeing the pictures.
Congratulations to you and to Old Henry!
Cheers
Well it’s great to know that this Excalibur of DB coats is going to stay in the LL family, and go to a young man who will get decades of use from it. It pleases me greatly to see smart young guys in the LL take advantage of an unusually great opportunity to work with one of the very last Benchmade tailors.
And, best of all, we know this great coat is going to fit its wearer perfectly. So it’s up to you now to wear it well , and I am sure you will. I look forward to seeing the pictures.
Congratulations to you and to Old Henry!
Cheers
Thanks Michael, much appreciated! It's been a fun journey working with Frank... and one that just started! Last week I had the chance to go up to Syracuse and meet him in person for the first time - so keep in mind all of this amazing work has been done remotely so far. We hopefully have a few more tom come!
Apparently the gobblins at FedEx have released my suit and I should have it tomorrow, but in the meantime I can share with you some FU Lapels v1.0 pictures, from the first DB (but second suit) Frank made for me. Sorry for the poor quality of the pics.
Apparently the gobblins at FedEx have released my suit and I should have it tomorrow, but in the meantime I can share with you some FU Lapels v1.0 pictures, from the first DB (but second suit) Frank made for me. Sorry for the poor quality of the pics.
That's a great coat too! I am really amazed at what you two have been able to accomplish virtually, using Skype. Maybe Old Henry can tell us more about how he does it because the results are excellent.Thanks Michael, much appreciated! It's been a fun journey working with Frank... and one that just started! Last week I had the chance to go up to Syracuse and meet him in person for the first time - so keep in mind all of this amazing work has been done remotely so far. We hopefully have a few more to come!
And I think all of us would like to read a trip report from your visit to Syracuse.
Cheers
Mariano, beautiful suit. Just look at the neck and shoulders in the sitting down shot. There is not a millimeter of a gap. It's like Frank is crouching behind with his finger on your neck. And you are leaning forward a bit. Still no movement.
Perhaps someone at Fedex appreciates Frank's work a bit too much
Greg
Perhaps someone at Fedex appreciates Frank's work a bit too much
Greg
It takes a certain man to wear FU2.0 lapels. And Mariano eats them up. As I knew he would the second I first set eyes on him in another post. Styling is as individual as fit. Silhouette talk is nonsense. Everyone has their own.
+1Styling is as individual as fit. Silhouette talk is nonsense. Everyone has their own.
Silhouette is RTW talk. Everyone has their own and that's why tailors draft patterns.
Cheers
As promised, Fedex finally released the suit and here are some quick pictures, under an unusually bad lighting - apologies! Also, I am only wearing the jacket - the trousers need some pressing!
This one is for Snorre - I can pick up the phone and the suit does not move one bit!
This one is for Snorre - I can pick up the phone and the suit does not move one bit!
Mariano
Wow It's even better than I thought it would be. ]t is so rare, no, it is almost impossible, to see clothing made like your new coat anymore, anyplace, by or for anyone. And I love seeing a real 1930s quality suit being made in 2019!
That is a spectacular fit, cut, style, FU v2 lapels whatever you want to call it...a spectacular DB coat. Old Henry just nailed it! Man oh man, if I was a young guy looking for some suits, I'd have a dozen of those.
Let's have some more (better) pictures.
Congratulations...how do YOU like it?
Thanks
Cheers
Wow It's even better than I thought it would be. ]t is so rare, no, it is almost impossible, to see clothing made like your new coat anymore, anyplace, by or for anyone. And I love seeing a real 1930s quality suit being made in 2019!
That is a spectacular fit, cut, style, FU v2 lapels whatever you want to call it...a spectacular DB coat. Old Henry just nailed it! Man oh man, if I was a young guy looking for some suits, I'd have a dozen of those.
Let's have some more (better) pictures.
Congratulations...how do YOU like it?
Thanks
Cheers
Mariano,
Beautiful, simply beautiful. I think the official expanded name for FU 2.0 should be FU twice
Greg
Beautiful, simply beautiful. I think the official expanded name for FU 2.0 should be FU twice
Greg
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Just to remind everyone that Frank does a great sports coat too (and yes Mariano, it really hugs the neck )
Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr
Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr
Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr
BB
Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr
Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr
Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr
BB
Last edited by bond_and_beyond on Mon Apr 15, 2019 7:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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