Bespoke Black and White Houndstooth Sportcoat

[loarbmhs]

I'm about to order a bespoke black and white houndstooth sportcoat. In the vast array of black and white swatches available, I've noticed that while "black is black," the contrasting white color can range from more of a true white, to off white, to almost tan.

I'd appreciate any counsel about which is the most proper/versatile. Or is it just a matter of personal taste?

And while you're at it, what's your advice re the size of the houndstooth pattern? I surely don't want something mammoth such as I've seen on women's retro skirts, but the size seems to vary from small to more micro, if that makes any sense.

[alden]

IMG_0544 by The London Lounge, on Flickr

[loarbmhs]

Thanks, Michael. The ones I'm considering are much smaller—really don't see that it's houndstooth until you're pretty close up, and registers as grey solid from farther back. The Duke of Windsor looks great, but I'm more conservative and don't think I could pull off the scale of fabric in his jacket and feel comfortable in it.

P.S. I tried to upload a picture of two swatches, but I got an error message saying, "Sorry the board attachment quota has been reached." What special incantation did you do to post your picture?

[Richard3]

I would prefer a larger size. A small one might look like an orphaned suit jacket and reminds me of cheap RTW jackets from the 90s.

[alden]

I would prefer a larger size. A small one might look like an orphaned suit jacket and reminds me of cheap RTW jackets from the 90s.

+1

The small scale houndstooth is more a suiting than a jacketing. It can be worn as a jacket but with the orphaned suit coat risk.

I don't think the scale on Windsor's coat is large, having seen much much larger. It looks just right to me.

Cheers

[loarbmhs]

Thanks, Michael and Richard!

[alden]

Loarbmhs

Rather than a diminutive form of a great classic pattern like a houndstooth that has so much panache when done well, find the kind of classic pattern you are comfortable wearing as an odd jacket. For example, a herringbone with a subtle windowpane that has served men well for ages. It is easy to wear, understated and very smart when done well.

Cheers

[Luca]

Re. the question about the type of white to favour, personally I think that something like cream is more wearable than 'brilliant white', on a garment other than a shirt.

Agree on the idea that if you have to get a jeweler's loupe to spot the pattern, it's more suiting than jacketing, IMO.

[emde]

Wouldn't a brown and cream/tan houndstooth tweed be something to add to the fall 2018 discussion?

[L.deJong]

https://www.google.nl/amp/www.voxsartor ... -grant/amp

[loarbmhs]

Re. the question about the type of white to favour, personally I think that something like cream is more wearable than 'brilliant white', on a garment other than a shirt.

Agree on the idea that if you have to get a jeweler's loupe to spot the pattern, it's more suiting than jacketing, IMO.

Your "jeweler's loupe" comment cracked me up, Luca.

[loarbmhs]

https://www.google.nl/amp/www.voxsartor ... -grant/amp

Yes, Cary looks smashing. My other problem—even if I can commit to a larger pattern—is that we live in a very warm weather climate. My impression is that the larger houndstooth fabrics are usually in heavier wools, making them a one-season option for me.

[culverwood]

How's this Fox flannel for size of check?

CBT9 A0053/11

I have a 3 piece suit in the Dugdale 8711 from their Formal Wear collection but the pattern is probably too small for you.

[Melcombe]

https://www.google.nl/amp/www.voxsartor ... -grant/amp

Yes, Cary looks smashing. My other problem—even if I can commit to a larger pattern—is that we live in a very warm weather climate. My impression is that the larger houndstooth fabrics are usually in heavier wools, making them a one-season option for me.

I had this made last year in Harris Tweed. I take your point about warm climates, but HT can be (as this one is) quite light and very porous. That said, I stopped wearing it in the spring and probably won't reach for it again until autumn here in the UK - but then it is exceptionally warm lately.

[loarbmhs]

How's this Fox flannel for size of check?

CBT9 A0053/11

I have a 3 piece suit in the Dugdale 8711 from their Formal Wear collection but the pattern is probably too small for you.

The Fox flannel may work. Would you happen to know the weight and the swatch number, so I may research it further?