An American Italian coat benchmade by an Irishman

[bond_and_beyond]

I recently knocked off no 1 on my sartorial bucket list, a benchmade coat by Mr Frank Shattuck. I had initially considered such a coat to be a goal way into the future given Frank's location in upstate New York and myself in Norway.

However, due to Belimad (Mariano's) pleasant results with Skype fittings with Frank I asked him if he would consider making me one as well. I've had Frank as a Facebook friend for years, and he' been exceptionally helpful on my sartorial adventures, always providing great insight to any questions I might have posed to him.

Frank gratiously accepted to try another "long distance" tailoring experiment, and we discussed all aspects of the sports coat we intended to make at length. Cloth wise, we ended up with dark blue Lovat Etterick cloth, which Frank deems to be some of the best in production today.

Discussions on everything from lapel length, coat length, canvas etc would follow (pretty much on a daily basis!), but first order of business was to get the measurements done. I had expected that a number of measurements would be required, but Frank only wanted chest, waist and seat as well as wanting to know my precise height. In addition I sent him some photos of me in various tailoring, as well as some photos of me in shirt back or T-shirt.

Not too long after the measurements were done I received by Fedex a "muslin fitting". Basically the jacket done up in muslin cloth. We Skyped a fitting with Frank looking at me from every angle, as well as doing some high res photos that I sent him afterwards.

We settled on doing patch pockets, high "neopolitan" lapels and "soft-strong" shoulders.

To my surprise Frank prioritised my jacket completely, working on the jacket by hand continuously for days until he suddenly, much much sooner than I had expected, told me that he was ready to ship the finished item. I must admit I was a bit sceptical that we wouldn't do another fitting first, but Frank was confident in what he had made.

And he sure was right to. I received the jacket two days later and to my eye, and Frank confirmed it, the fit was spot on. I was thoroughly surprised. That he had gotten my uneven shoulders and exceptionally straight upper back right based on a few photos and a Skype fitting was quite surreal, given how many tailors have who have seen me in person multiple times have taken several iterations to get it "just right".

The jacket is absolutely beautiful, and is the best bespoke item I own. I particularly love the special patch breast pocket he designed, which I have never seen before.

In addition, the level of handwork in this coat is unbelievable. Pretty much everything is by hand, and by an exceptionally capable hand at that.

I can't express how much I love the coat. Unfortunately it is 30 C in Oslo now, so I can't wear it much yet, but I'm looking forward to fall already. Thanks to my wife putting me on a diet I've lost almost 2 inches in the waist since my measurements were done, so I'll send it back to Frank to be taken a bit in, but other than that no changes seem to be necessary. How he got the perfect sleeve length without even doing a sleeve measurement is beyond me.

Apologies if this all sounds like a shameless plug, but for me this has just been an eye opener to what true benchmade tailoring is. Frank says he is just trying to be like the old world tailors were, but in my book he goes way beyond that. He told me he could wake up at night thinking about a detail of my coat, and every day we would discuss details on Facebook into the minutest detail. I loved that and never experienced anything close to that dedication to the craft before.

Some of you will have seen that Frank has posted some photos of the coat on Facebook, and I'll try to get some nice photos done in the coming days.

The coat is truly one of a kind, and did I mention what it feels like to wear? I couldn't believe that a tweed could feel like that, but it basically feels like wearing a sweater. It's almost like not wearing anything at all. Very high armhole and a collar that seems glued to my neck, yet doesn't feel stiff or uncomfortable.

Again, photos will come soon, cause to me this coat is something to behold. Many thanks to Frank for jumping on this crazy Internet project between Sackets Harbor and Oslo!

BB

[Screaminmarlon]

I’m happy to hear such a great story about total dedication and great craft. Old Henry sure is the real deal.
Being prosaic: now we need to see the photos

[belimad]

Bond’s description is spot on. I’ve posted already pictures of the SB Frank made for me, and even though we gave FedEx an interesting revenue stream since the coat went back and forth a couple of times until Frank was truly happy with the finished product, the whole experience was nothing short of extraordinary.
I can’t wait to try my DB which Frank is finishing now!!

[alden]

BB

It’s a beautiful coat.

For over a decade now I have been saying that one of the greatest bench made tailors in the world works out of a small shop in upstate NY. It pleases me greatly to see that some of you young guys, from far flung places, listened. And you listened to Frank and let him guide you the way a "real" tailor should be able to do.

It has always been a source of bewilderment to see all the Manhattanites scurry around the world looking for tailoring when they had something much better in their own back yard. And from what I have seen of the tailor’s work they scurried around the world to get, they would have been much better off staying at home.

Be that as it may, I am very happy that young men from far flung places are able to access work from one of the last “benchmade” craftsmen working today via modern technology (so it does serve a purpose after all.) And it is not surprising to me at all, that an artist who knows his craft and its system inside and out can work virtually in this way.

I wrote it just a few minutes ago elsewhere, but I see the DNA of the old Sicilian masters that taught Frank in his work. And my old Sicilian tailor only needed three measures to work his magic as well. He knew his craft. He lived and breathed it.

So, BB, well done. I look forward to the pictures…

Cheers

[alden]

The coat is truly one of a kind, and did I mention what it feels like to wear? I couldn't believe that a tweed could feel like that, but it basically feels like wearing a sweater. It's almost like not wearing anything at all. Very high armhole and a collar that seems glued to my neck, yet doesn't feel stiff or uncomfortable.

Now you know what it is to wear a true benchmade garment, you have felt for yourself the thing some us have loosed gallons of ink trying to describe in words. You are now either saved or ruined, the bar is set up high where it belongs and you have finally cleared the hurdle of the middling so often present in the swamp-like amalgam known as "bespoke."

So wear well, what a few generations of real tailors have toiled to make for you because what you have on your back is the distillation of many lives, many generations, many beginnings and endings, many errors and revelations, many hours and many more hours. Wear it well to say "thanks" and tip your hat to all those unknown faces who made the wonderful feeling you enjoy possible.

Cheers

[Screaminmarlon]

The coat is truly one of a kind, and did I mention what it feels like to wear? I couldn't believe that a tweed could feel like that, but it basically feels like wearing a sweater. It's almost like not wearing anything at all. Very high armhole and a collar that seems glued to my neck, yet doesn't feel stiff or uncomfortable.

Now you know what it is to wear a true benchmade garment, you have felt for yourself the thing some us have loosed gallons of ink trying to describe in words. You are now either saved or ruined, the bar is set up high where it belongs and you have finally cleared the hurdle of the middling so often present in the swamp-like amalgam known as "bespoke."

So wear well, what a few generations of real tailors have toiled to make for you because what you have on your back is the distillation of many lives, many generations, many beginnings and endings, many errors and revelations, many hours and many more hours. Wear it well to say "thanks" and tip your hat to all those unknown faces who made the wonderful feeling you enjoy possible.

Cheers

Chapeau
So very well expressed

[old henry]

The customer is as much in the final Benchmade as is the tailor and his old masters. The last post by Alden is the most satisfying words I have read. It is as pregnant and packed with truths as a Shakespeare sonnet. " The distillation of many lives " ? Perfection
Also...Every single one of my customers from The LL is pure class. Bond, Mariano, two hidden, David and JG.

[bond_and_beyond]

Finally some photos of this truly amazing coat. I could't be happier with it. Particularly how the shoulders work with my physique. And the absolutely unique and beautiful out breast pocket. I think Frank made about 5 different versions of it before he was happy. The same kind of tweaking was done to the patch hip pockets. Perfectionism at work I guess. I don't think I need to say anything more, these photos speak for themselves I think!

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

BB

[Screaminmarlon]

Love the lapped seam on the shoulder (I happen to have a few numbers that have it): really beautiful, old world coat, complimenti!

[alden]

If ever the accolade of capolavoro applied to any garment posted on the LL, it would apply to this Shattuck coat. My most sincere compliments to both of you.

The fit is perfection. Full stop, what else is there to say? There are so few tailors around anymore who can fit a garment like that one has been done. To think that all that was accomplished via Skype is simply astonishing.

That virtual technology and the process Frank has come up with to make it work so well, really opens up the world of benchmade tailoring to a broad audience. That men from the corners of the earth now have access to this kind of authentic tailoring is an inspiration. I hope many of you can take advantage of it.

And I am so happy you posted so many pictures, especially of the detail on the hand felled interior, pockets, lapels, buttonholes etc. All that minute and exacting handwork comes to us from a long way back. That is the way things used to be done. That is the kind of work I remember. That work is on a par with the great French tailors of the distant past who were so much more meticulous than the Italians or the English. And that kind of work that vanished 30 years ago. It vanished with a whole boatload of tailors that most of you have never heard or read about.

But it is a true pleasure to see the handwork, detail and fit that I have been talking about (and mostly lamenting its passing) embodied in such a splendid coat. And it especially pleases me to see its owner is a young man who has displayed such great dedication and interest in learning about the art we so admire.

Once again, my congratulations and wear it well to honor the Master(s)!

Cheers

[davidhuh]

Dear BB, dear Frank,

congratulations - this is an amazing coat! Very happy to see pignata patch pockets done with this cloth. Such a pleasure to see them done so well

Cheers David

[old henry]

David, Michael, screamin. Thank you all. And bond. Btw. Mariano invented the Skype fittings. He wants you all to know.

[belimad]

David, Michael, screamin. Thank you all. And bond. Btw. Mariano invented the Skype fittings. He wants you all to know.

Hah! I am just a lazy but pragmatic customer who did not want to travel to Upstate NY to see the master

[Concordia]

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

Untitled by Bond Beyond, on Flickr

BB

Woof.

[Rob O]

Beautiful jacket. Congratulations.