A wretched development...

[exigent]

I once saw a man wear a sequined suit to the opera and another man who had taken the occasion to don some sort of a cheap top hat with a shawl-lapel dinner jacket and Florsheim type dress boots in a shiny corrected grain affair.

Oh dear God! And so close to my bedtime...another nightmare-filled disaster coming on like the Japanese bullet train!

[exigent]

One of the leading charities in the city nearest me -- a city once known as the most refined in the country -- has long held a ball as its chief fund-raiser. Over the years, the gathering has declined greatly: full evening dress has completely disappeared, and even the dinner jacket seems imperilled: "creative black tie" is plainly printed on the shiny invitations, in an attempt to attract the young and unrefined, and shows in the ubiquitous notch lapel and patent-leather brogue (I hadn't known that such a thing existed); dancing, real dancing, has long since been replaced by free-style shaking; and kindly warmth, by back-slapping and guffaws. I prefer to send a check and forego the trial of attendance.

Indeed, I find the only pleasing formal or semi-formal gatherings nowadays to be entertaining at my home or friends', and an occasional gala of one or two hereditary societies. And this, I fear, is no different on either side of the Atlantic.

Utterly depressing, RWS. I perfectly understand your wise decision to forgo the rubber chicken en croute and simply mail-in your contribution.

[exigent]

Footnote on notch vs. peak for formal wear: my father (newly relocated to greater Phoenix) is on the verge of replacing the dinner jacket he had made in Cincinnati lo these 40 years ago. He asked for some hints, which I forwarded on. His reply I found interesting. Turns out that in his area, he has come to associate peak lapels with slightly cheesy rental suits. The better-made ones that are in evidence at the Opera (about the only place he would ever dress for out there) have notch lapels.

So we'll see what sort of atrocity he abets as a result.

I was about to second Etienne's excellent suggestion, when you explained that your father was moving past his tasteful shawl lapel dinner jacket to "greener" pastures. You know, Concordia, your post struck a chord with me, since I, too, had to witness my own father's inexorable downhill slide from the pinnacle of high WASP dress to a kind of compromised state, where the still interesting geezer makes odd choices designed to drive me mad. Considering that your father had demonstrably good sartorial taste, as did my own, the pain is simply sharper for fellows like us. Of course, notch lapels included, I trust that your dad will at least secure a proper fit. My father's expanding middle has made even that mild consolation into a distant memory....

[Phil]

Ah, yes, the downhill slide of the father's wardrobe. Such a sad thing to watch, especially when most of us probably saw our first custom-made labels when going through dad's closet without permission. I would subtly suggest you remind your dad that he loved the shawl collar for 40 years, so why change? It probably won't work but it seems a gentle last stand.

As for footwear, I will open the can of worms. What's your preferance: Patent leather? Grosgrain? or Calfskin? I'll keep my own choice secret, questioner's prvilege and all.

[jekarwoski]

wearing black double-soled brogues with evening clothes?

Well, at least they didn't wear rental shoes.

I don't own proper formal shoes, but alternate between two pair: highly polished calfskin oxfords, highly polished loafer (has what some might call the "penny loafer" look but is very sleek: no "beef roll" on the outside, the strap is subdued, with a lower vamp).

[exigent]

wearing black double-soled brogues with evening clothes?

Well, at least they didn't wear rental shoes.

I don't own proper formal shoes, but alternate between two pair: highly polished calfskin oxfords, highly polished loafer (has what some might call the "penny loafer" look but is very sleek: no "beef roll" on the outside, the strap is subdued, with a lower vamp).

Highly polished oxford: good; highly polished loafer: bad. Although it is always dangerous to assume, you are combining these choices with a proper dinner suit, right?

[exigent]

"As for footwear, I will open the can of worms. What's your preferance: Patent leather? Grosgrain? or Calfskin? I'll keep my own choice secret, questioner's prvilege and all."


Patent leather is too slick for a young geezer like me. I wear either highly polished black calf pumps or close-fitting, highly polished black calf oxfords with a dinner jacket and trousers (important to add trousers to the mix--really dims a fellow's appeal when he arrives in boxer shorts alone to underpin a well-cut jacket...).

[Connemara]

I once saw a man wear a sequined suit to the opera and another man who had taken the occasion to don some sort of a cheap top hat with a shawl-lapel dinner jacket and Florsheim type dress boots in a shiny corrected grain affair.

My eyes hurt simply thinking about it!

[kidkim2]

To the younger guys: Pick up a pair of AE patent leather pumps (with grosgrain ribbons) and watch the girls swoon. (I assume AE still makes them.)

Mine have served me for nearly thirty years. (The shoes, not the girls.) AE pumps do not cost an arm and a leg. One of the best investments I ever made!

[Incroyable]

I believe Shipton & Heneage also have a patent opera pump with a pinched bow. Rather reasonably priced too.

[JLibourel]

To the younger guys: Pick up a pair of AE patent leather pumps (with grosgrain ribbons) and watch the girls swoon. (I assume AE still makes them.)

Mine have served me for nearly thirty years. (The shoes, not the girls.) AE pumps do not cost an arm and a leg. One of the best investments I ever made!

Yep, A-E still makes the Ritz. They can be had for $199 at the A-E outlets, about $160 during the semi-annual sales. Although I have some misgivings about the flash of patent leather, they are what I would acquire had I occasion to wear black tie. Depsite your remarks, Mike, concerning the swooning girls, I get a strong sense that my wife would be none too pleased by my wearing them.

[RWS]

Perhaps because of the swooning girls.

[JLibourel]

Perhaps because of the swooning girls.

Very old girls perhaps, but not the kind I'd want swooning over me--they're all at least 30 years younger than I am these days!

[AnthonyJordan]

I like patent very much and I recently acquired, via eBay, a pair of Church's Aquila patent pumps with grosgrain bow, seconds, for just over £25. Whilst I know that some are inclined to doubt Church's quality, for my purposes they should be amply sufficient and I look forward to trying them out at my next evening engagement. To supplement them I also have a pair of Church's toecap Oxfords, also a good solid shoe, and also a much older pair of patent wholecuts with the odd addition of a stitched line across the apron mimicking a toecap. These are also fine for my purposes and, indeed, I have worn them both (a la Hercule Poirot) for sufficiently formal daytime occasions (e.g. my own wedding).