Warm weather wedding suit

[couch]

Makes, sense. But then your earlier question about slanted pockets making the suit jacket more casual would seem to be moot. In general, jetted pockets are IMO less casual than flapped, whether slanted or straight.

Regardless of the historically precise use of the term 'blazer' for a dark blue odd jacket with certain features, in practice the distinction can be minimal. Remember Vox's travel "blazer suit" or "Swiss army suit," for which Steed created interchangeable buttons—metal for wearing the jacket as a blazer, and horn for wearing it with matching trousers as a suit. Same jacket.

As Michael has often said, horn buttons are a perfectly reasonable alternative on the navy odd jacket as well. If that makes it no longer technically a blazer, then so be it, but I doubt anyone would leap to the conclusion that you were wearing an orphaned suit jacket. As Aston says, a smooth worsted jacket in charcoal gray might be a different story.

I think the Piuma has enough texture and the appropriate color that you really don't need to worry.

[bond_and_beyond]

Makes, sense. But then your earlier question about slanted pockets making the suit jacket more casual would seem to be moot. In general, jetted pockets are IMO less casual than flapped, whether slanted or straight.

Regardless of the historically precise use of the term 'blazer' for a dark blue odd jacket with certain features, in practice the distinction can be minimal. Remember Vox's travel "blazer suit" or "Swiss army suit," for which Steed created interchangeable buttons—metal for wearing the jacket as a blazer, and horn for wearing it with matching trousers as a suit. Same jacket.

As Michael has often said, horn buttons are a perfectly reasonable alternative on the navy odd jacket as well. If that makes it no longer technically a blazer, then so be it, but I doubt anyone would leap to the conclusion that you were wearing an orphaned suit jacket. As Aston says, a smooth worsted jacket in charcoal gray might be a different story.

I think the Piuma has enough texture and the appropriate color that you really don't need to worry.

Thanks. I remember someone having the LL blue barleycorn tweed made up with slanting jetted pockets which gave a nice casual impression. But I agree with you in general, as jetted pockets are de rigeour for dinner suits etc for the reason of formality.

I think I will have the suit made up with slanting flapped pockets and maybe a ticket pocket, and dark brown horn buttons (three on each cuff as I always have on my odd jackets). Should I perhaps also have the coat be a button one?

BB

[aston]

I am a big fan of the one button coat.

It doesn't change anything at all as regards cut, or look, but it just seems to say "hey!" a little bit, which I like.............

[arch]

A minor downside of a one button coat is that you cannot turn up the collar and button the coat right up when it is cold. One of the features I love on a couple of my coats is a button under the lapel allowing the collars to turned up and buttoned to keep the weather out.
I have a Huntsman sposts coat that suffers because it is one button. Then if your coat is also going to function as a suit, if does not really matter too much. Better a master on one than a jack of all trades etc.

[bond_and_beyond]

It looks like I'll be pulling the trigger on the button one. Basted fitting later today.

Another thing I''m considering is wider lapels, for a more "Italian" look. Perhaps 10cm as opposed to the usual 8.5 cm. What's the consensus on lapel widths here?

BB

[hectorm]

10cm as opposed to the usual 8.5 cm. What's the consensus on lapel widths here?

I'm sure you heard this one before: it's all a matter of balance.
10 cm vs 8.5 cm doesn't mean a thing per se. Are you short and thin, or tall and heavy? Is the lapel going to be peaked or notched? how long? with a belly? Put together all this and you'll see how wide a "wide" lapel is for you and decide if you want to go for it.

[bond_and_beyond]

I'm sure you heard this one before: it's all a matter of balance.
10 cm vs 8.5 cm doesn't mean a thing per se. Are you short and thin, or tall and heavy? Is the lapel going to be peaked or notched? how long? with a belly? Put together all this and you'll see how wide a "wide" lapel is for you and decide if you want to go for it.

No disagreement there. At the basted fitting I opted, after discussions with my tailor, to go for 3 3/4 inch lapels. I have fairly wide shoulders already and don't want to accentuate that feature too much.

BB

[bond_and_beyond]

I finally took delivery of this suit last week. I love it, and the cloth is amazing. I am really struck by the shade of blue. Incredibly rich and deep. Thanks again to Michael for helping me acquire this cloth.

Some photos below:







Piuma meets Brisa:


BB

[Screaminmarlon]

Beautiful! And you wear it well.
Piuma is great for warm weather (and unlined Brisa as well).
Pity for that navy crimson windowpane Piuma that got away

[couch]

That's quite splendid. Lovely proportions.

[davidhuh]

Dear BB,

great stuff - congratulations!

Cheers, David

[alden]

BB

Excellent!

Glad it worked out.

Cheers