Help with classic traditional waistband styles, please.

[Vettriano man]

This is my first major post as a recent newcomer to the forum and I have saved it as a question of a specific tailoring nature. I have decided to have my next suit cut with the trouser waistband in the fish-tail style, but I am puzzled by the many variations I have seen and would like to know what is correct as a classic style. Firstly, there is a style where there is a waistband all around. Secondly, a style where there is a waistband at the front and sides which terminates into the side seams from where the back becomes plain. Thirdly, there is the more usual style where there is no waistband at all, which I am not so keen on, especially without a waistcoat.

Furthermore, there seem to be varying heights at the back, and variations at the front where some have a tab (with hook and bar) and others finish abruptly above the fly, again which I am not keen on. Lastly, brace buttons are sometimes seen on the inside at the front and outside at the back or all inside, and some have side-adjusters.

I really would appreciate any thoughts as I want to achieve a correct and classic appearance. Thank you.

[dopey]

Let me begin by saying that all the versions you mentioned sound more or less acceptable and you should feel comfortable choosing what you like. I will note that I have never seen or at least noticed the version you refer to as “thirdly” (no waistband at all). I can’t see anything wrong with it though you should feel free to dislike it.

I have heard people say that high-backs should have only a center adjuster in back rather than side tabs. I have them both ways and am not convinced that one is better or worse.

Similarly, I have both half-waistband and full waistband versions. I like both. If I have a preference, I suppose I would prefer a full waistband with striped cloth because the waistband makes a cool v in the rear which is accentuated by the stripes - but really, I have never ordered with this in mind and don’t have a strong preference.

Put the brace buttons where you want - all arguments about comfort are, to me, bunk. Choose the way you like best. I get them inside always. I think an extension tab on the waistband in the front looks nice and always get one. I don’t think it is wrong to omit. You might also consider a button on the tab rather than hook and eye (I get the hook).

As for height in the back, trust your tailor and have him show you what he is thinking. You might want to wait a bit to let your preferences develop rather than coming in with an idea of what is “right”. Another thing to think about is how fitted you want the high back to be. The theory is to have them cut loose and to let the braces do the work. I like mine much more snug, particularly into the small of my back.

Good luck.

[TVD]

As has been rightly noted, all the styles you describe are "correct". I fear I am not sufficiently expert to state which is the more ancient version.

I have noted though that tailors tend to have rather strong views on their preferred style, and unless you hold strong views yourself, go with whatever your tailor feels most passionate about. Aids the all important rapport between client and craftsman.

[Vettriano man]

Thanks, dopey and TVD, here is an image of the 'third' version I was referring to, with no waistband at all...
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[dopey]

Thanks, dopey and TVD, here is an image of the 'third' version I was referring to, with no waistband at all...

I am with you. I don’t think I like it but I can now confirm that I don’t think there is anything wrong with it either. I definitely makes sense to avoid the extension tab on that version. While i don’t think I would want that (yet), I do admire the way it is made. It looks well thought out and has nice design integrity. Perhaps perfect for a dinner suit where there is a cummerbund demarcating the waist.

[manton]

I think the idea is supposed to be that no waistband is more comfortable. I have high back trousers with a full waistband, and those with a half, and I find them equally comfortable. I think it all comes down to what you like. I don't know which came first, but I would guess the full waistband.

[Vettriano man]

Thanks manton - but would it be wrong to have a hook and bar tab without a waistband? It would surely look neater if one isn't wearing a waistcoat.

[manton]

I'm not sure what you mean by hook and bar tab. You mean a waistband extension?

[Vettriano man]

I mean at the front, instead of ending abruptly above the fly as shown in the image above.

[manton]

There is no waistband to extend. I suppose they could just cut a 3" by 1" strip at the upper edge of the left trouser front part. But I think it would look odd.

[Vettriano man]

Yes, you are right - it could look odd. In that case I shall go with the style that has the waistband at the front and sides only. I will need to decide on side or back adjusters, but I believe that you are not in favour of them.

[manton]

it's not that I don't like them. I just think they don't work. But they make a lovely decoration.

Traditionally, high back trousers take a back strap only (no side straps).

[TVD]

I think that if the trousers are to be worn without a waistcoat, a waistband at the front would look better. Side adjusters are redundant with braces anyway, although I have seen them frequently on both the full and the front only waistband option.

The single adjuster at the back would affect the distance between the buttons holding the braces (which could cause all sorts of rippling and problems with the fit of the braces), but may also be uncomfortable in a car where the backrest will press against it (most other seats lack the lumbar support responsible for this). I think side adjusters for decoration are the safer option.

[Vettriano man]

Many thanks dopey, TVD and manton (good old reliable manton!) - some very helpful reassurance.

[AnthonyJordan]

This is my first major post as a recent newcomer to the forum and I have saved it as a question of a specific tailoring nature. I have decided to have my next suit cut with the trouser waistband in the fish-tail style, but I am puzzled by the many variations I have seen and would like to know what is correct as a classic style. Firstly, there is a style where there is a waistband all around. Secondly, a style where there is a waistband at the front and sides which terminates into the side seams from where the back becomes plain. Thirdly, there is the more usual style where there is no waistband at all, which I am not so keen on, especially without a waistcoat.

Furthermore, there seem to be varying heights at the back, and variations at the front where some have a tab (with hook and bar) and others finish abruptly above the fly, again which I am not keen on. Lastly, brace buttons are sometimes seen on the inside at the front and outside at the back or all inside, and some have side-adjusters.

I really would appreciate any thoughts as I want to achieve a correct and classic appearance. Thank you.

Little that I can add at this juncture but all things being equal (e.g. your tailor has no strong preference, etc.) in your position I would probably go for a full waistband with waistband extension/French bearer and omit the adjusters, unless I was feeling particularly antiquarian, in which case I would have a back adjuster. I would also probably choose to have the buttons on the outside of the waistband, chiefly for the look of it but also because I find a slight comfort advantage that way.