Bespoke shirtmaker

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

levantine
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Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:32 pm

I have been searching for a shirtmaker ever since Mary Frittolini stopped working.
A friend suggested Camiceria Sabatini in Rome.
Any views?
Concordia
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Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:53 pm

Did you try her again? I believe she is in Paris and taking new orders.
ismailalmurtadza
Posts: 143
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Sat Nov 19, 2016 1:09 am

Concordia wrote:Did you try her again? I believe she is in Paris and taking new orders.
Is she still using her previous contact addressed...i believed i still have her email addressed otherwise i may have to come back to the forum to seek with members who is in contact with her


Nik
angelo
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Sat Nov 19, 2016 3:26 pm

Levantine, unfortunately following the suggestions of a friend, I tried last year Sabatini in Rome. The results were a full disaster;despite my advices and three fittings none of the six commissioned shirts fulfilled my expectations. Really not worth trying.
hectorm
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Mon Nov 21, 2016 6:03 pm

levantine wrote:I have been searching for a shirtmaker ever since Mary Frittolini stopped working.
A friend suggested Camiceria Sabatini in Rome.
Any views?
Levantine,
I´m not sure if you´re searching just in Rome, but if you do, my top recommendation would be you try the shirtmaking at Sartoria Ripense. I wouldn´t know how to compare it with Mrs. Frittolini´s work but their craft is remarkable if you care for hand finished buttonholes, collar and shoulders. Plus they have an excellent fit (softer than T&A or Budd) and a very friendly environment.
Concordia
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Fri Dec 09, 2016 9:56 pm

Concordia wrote:Did you try her again? I believe she is in Paris and taking new orders.
And now I get an e-mail saying she is not. Maybe she will pull a Brett Favre in time for a dozen and a half for me.

Otherwise, is there anyone who does what she does? I'm actually getting pretty good service now from Napoli su Misura and Ascot Chang, after many modifications to each (some inspired by the other maker's good calls!). And there are a couple other makers who are very close to being as useful-- we'll see if another bunch of tweaks hits the bullseye. Still, you never know who will be hit by a bus-- or retire because they hated managing a business.
Concordia
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Sat Dec 10, 2016 3:46 am

hectorm wrote:
Levantine,
I´m not sure if you´re searching just in Rome, but if you do, my top recommendation would be you try the shirtmaking at Sartoria Ripense. I wouldn´t know how to compare it with Mrs. Frittolini´s work but their craft is remarkable if you care for hand finished buttonholes, collar and shoulders. Plus they have an excellent fit (softer than T&A or Budd) and a very friendly environment.
Do they travel (London or elsewhere), and how long and involved is the turnaround for a first order?
uppercase
Posts: 1769
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 3:49 pm

Sun Dec 11, 2016 1:29 am

It is very useful to have both your tailor and shirt maker and tie maker in the same city and immediately accessible to you. And each to see what the other is doing, step by step.

They need to work together on your behalf and the whole of your ensemble needs to be in proportion, designed among the three, all coordinated by you, the client. Obvious.

You, the client, need to organize the whole enterprise.

It's all about proportion, coordination, and consistency of vision and you will put it all together.

But I do think that if one firm is able to produce your suit, shirt and tie, that would be ideal, everything under one roof

Even so, I once used Rubinacci Milano to do that - put all three together - and the results were mixed. Not really an issue of proportion, etc. - which worked out well - but one of taste...this was my fault: because I abrogated control and assigned it to someone else. Someone else's taste - not my own.

This just a minor matter in the context of ones life, but useful to consider in future commissions.

I do like having the three crafts of a bespoke suit - coat, shirt and tie - all made under one roof - or at least in one city - and I think that you'll get the best, consistent, and most harmonious results that way.
hectorm
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Sun Dec 11, 2016 11:23 pm

Concordia wrote: Sartoria Ripense...
Do they travel (London or elsewhere), and how long and involved is the turnaround for a first order?
I´m not aware whether Mr. Luparelli also carries shirting and takes measurements for shirts during his trips, but I´m positive he travels extensively with his "trunk shows". At least twice a year to Paris, also London. Occasionally to Moscow and Athens.
However, the charm of browsing the boutique in Rome will be lost.
I ordered shirts in 2012 together with other custom garments and coinciding with the fittings, so I couldn´t tell you what the real independent current first turnaround time is.
Dr T
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Tue Feb 07, 2017 9:58 am

Where are we with London shirt makers? Im in the market for some bespoke shirts what is todays recommendation please.Im after striped shirts with white collar and cuffs - they seem to be out of fashion at the moment.
DavidS
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Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:13 pm

...
Last edited by DavidS on Fri Dec 27, 2019 7:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dr T
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Tue Feb 07, 2017 3:18 pm

Thanks David.
Concordia
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Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:10 pm

My own experience with Lachter was a tad less good, although I am sure he will work well with you if you're close to London.

Budd would be my current choice among the traditional Jermyn Street crowd. Dege can also do excellent work, although I haven't used them for a while.

Udeshi is very flexible and creative, although I haven't quite got my pattern nailed down.
hectorm
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Tue Feb 07, 2017 10:34 pm

Dr T wrote: I´m after striped shirts with white collar and cuffs - they seem to be out of fashion at the moment.
You shouldn´t worry about the "out of fashion" angle. I believe that all classic shirt wardrobes should contain a few of those. One with very light blue stripes for your morning suit, several Bengal or butcher stripes for your blazers and maybe one for your chalk stripe power suit :roll:
I would subscribe the recommendation above regarding Budd, specially because dealing with Mr. Rowley is a pleasure. Although Turnbulll & Asser (and also Emma Willis) have some mean Bengal stripes shirtings. If you are lucky enough to have easy access to Jeremyn St. then the world is your oyster.
davidhuh
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Tue Feb 07, 2017 10:35 pm

Dr T wrote:Where are we with London shirt makers?
Dear Dr T,

try Budd if Mr Butcher accepts you 8)

Cheers, David
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