Cloth for first flannel?

[paborden]

So, this is an extremely basic question, but despite having done a ton of research, I'm still having trouble with it.

I'm currently putting in my orders for winter, and ordering some of my first bespoke flannel. Before I move to the LL cloths, I'm trying to decide what cloth to use for both a basic charcoal and navy suit.

Right now, the finalists appear to be the Minnis 14/15oz 435/465gm OR Fox 13/14oz 370/400g. Both have charcoal and navy available, and Fox also has a nice midnight available in case I wanted to go darker.

The Minnis is noticeably heavier, and I've heard rumors of it being more durable, but I don't know. The Fox, to my eyes at least, seems to have much more mottling and have a softer hand. It's also more expensive by 25%+.

Would anyone have any thoughts?

[alden]

If you want a truly classic English heritage cloth then go with Fox Bros. I have a number of suits from their traditional weights and they wear very well. And the look of the cloth is pretty much unrivaled.

Minnis is excellent cloth. Make sure you are buying from a legit distributor as there are lots of counterfeit goods coming in from China. Call Minnis if you have any doubts about a distributor. The heavy flannels are very good. I believe they are made by Gorina in Spain which is not a bad thing but I could be wrong. Gorina made some flannel cloth for the LL years ago and they are excellent. In any case the Minnis flannels don't seem to have the charm filled look of the Fox products made in the West of England.

If you are buying for Winter, the LL Fox flannels are a first choice given their weight and drape. Fox did an excellent job with these.

Good luck

[mimile]

Paborden,
You can buy directly from HFW (Minnis) online. They have some flannels on offer now, one of which is a navy in the 400 grs for 35 BP a metre, a steal for a flannel.
If you need heavier weight, nothing would be more appropriate than or as good as the LL flannel book from Fox.

[old henry]

Paborden, where do you live ?
What are the seasons like ?
Fox LL Flannel is a truly authentic flannel from before the days of central heating. It is thick, sturdy, luxurious and very warm. It is what a flannel should be. It is the only true flannel made these days. Other flannels are no where's near what they were 20 years ago. Today they are limp and light and they do not drape.
ps. I only use LL Fox Flannel. It is completely different from the standard Fox Flannel. That I do not use.

[paborden]

THANK YOU everyone. Very insightful.

[rodes]

paborden,
I have one of each, a DB in Minnis RAF blue (a great color, less severe than true navy) perhaps 8 years old, and a DB in Fox medium grey, 6 years old. I like both very much but prefer the Minnis. It seems slightly heavier and holds its shape markedly better. You cannot go wrong either way.

[Simon A]

The Gorina flannels at 500 grammes are attractive, drape well, are as robust as a woollen flannel can be, and are very good value for money, about half the price of Fox. No patterns though, but perfectly good for a first flannel suit. A lot of tailors in Europe stock it.

[paborden]

Here's a follow up question -

I've been hearing a lot about how people don't actually like solid navy flannels (compared to, say, charcoal). Can anyone speak to this?

[ay329]

Gorina's navy blue wollen flannel at 450 grams in their Franela Fina 71 range #4922 is solid, but the bluer hue males it a better color choice than plain navy

However, a blue/navy melange flannel does show up once in a blue moon.
https://www.facebook.com/TheMerchantFox ... =3&theater

[davidhuh]

I've been hearing a lot about how people don't actually like solid navy flannels (compared to, say, charcoal). Can anyone speak to this?

Dear Paborden,

as much as I recommend people commissioning their first worsted in some blue/navy material, I recommend a first flannel to be mid-grey. Flannel is elegant, more relaxed than worsted cloth and by going grey, you will have more opportunities for wearing it than in any blue solid shade. If everybody is telling you the same, they might have a point

Cheers, David

[culverwood]

I love a navy flannel and would chose it before a grey bespoke as I have done twice in my life. I realise I may not be in the majority but to me it is an essential suit.

[paborden]

I love a navy flannel and would chose it before a grey bespoke as I have done twice in my life. I realise I may not be in the majority but to me it is an essential suit.

if you'd do navy, what about midnight?

[culverwood]

Navy to me is a dark blue and midnight a very dark blue. Without knowing what fabric you are looking at it is difficult to say as my idea of navy and yours may be subtly different. But as midnight is supposed to look darker than black probably not.

[hectorm]

I've been hearing a lot about how people don't actually like solid navy flannels (compared to, say, charcoal). Can anyone speak to this?

.. a blue/navy melange flannel does show up once in a blue moon.

Despite all the advice against the durability of that kind of fabric (after all, the pupils outgrew their clothes every year before they could get worn out) my school uniforms were mandatorily flannel. Navy flannel. Jackets, trousers and peacoats. The official purveyor of uniforms (a traditional department store) somehow managed to provide invariably the dullest of plain dark blues. Once in a while, one of our classmates would show up donning a bootlegged garment in some vivid navy blue mélange flannel. Oh, boy, what envy it provoked amongst us.
Don´t know if I´m biased due to these past experiences, but I believe that the only real flannel is the wooly kind and, in plain colors, the only one that counts is the subtly heathered kind.
As for color choice for a first suit, I agree with David and -for the same reasons- would recommend a mid grey (not charcoal) over a blue one.