Cotton Sources for Bespoke Shirts

[SouthPender]

I am planning my first bespoke shirt project with a local tailor and need some advice on the choice of fabric. The tailor has book after book of cotton fabrics available, and, although I recognize the occasional name of a cotton supplier (e.g., Mason), most are unfamiliar to me. My plan this time is to have a really fine dress shirt made (not one for work), and I'm leaning towards the cottons finer than 100s. The tailor has many samples of 120s, 140s, and 160s. Can some of you LLers provide me with the names of a few suppliers of good-quality cotton? Whether being in Vancouver will limit the availability of some of these brands I'm not sure of at the moment, but other North American members might indicate what they have seen in really good fabric. It would be helpful as well to learn of cotton lines that I should avoid. Thank you in advance.

[tattersall007]

Three names to consider are: Alumo, Albini and Bonfanti. Albini has the Mason ranges as well as the David and John Anderson range which is wonderful, especially their poplins (2x2 200s). I've heard Bonfanti highly recommended on this board but have never sampled.

[TVD]

Ask your local Albini agent to procure some lengths of D & J Anderson S200s. You will never look back.

[AlexanderKabbaz]

If you're in Canada you tailor undoubtedly has the Testa Romantina collection of 170s 2x2 distributed out of Montreal.

Aside from that: Thomas Mason, Alumo, Riva, SIC Tess and Bonfanti are what you seek.

What you should avoid? Any but the ones I listed.

I disagree with the suggestion to use the 2x2 200s from Albini. You would be better letting your new tailor begin with a 140s or 170s. If you find that he can handle those, then spend the additional for the 200s and give him a shot at them. They are not the easiest cloth to work with.

[zegnamtl]

SouthPender,

If you can not get swatches or fabric you desire and would like me to shop around Montreal for you, please do not hesitate.
It would be my pleasure.

[SouthPender]

Thank you all. Your suggestions are most welcome. Alex, you've made a good point that I hadn't thought about. Perhaps I'll have my first one done in something like 120s. In fact, my worry about the really fine cottons is that they might be a little limp or become that way with wearing, rather than having the ability to sort of stand up well, particularly if the shirt is slightly blousey. What do you think? What makes a shirt have that quality of sort of holding its shape, rather than drooping on the torso? And Zegnamtl, my friend, that is extremely generous of you. I'm more optimistic now that the tailor will have some of the fabrics Tattersall, TVD, and Alex have suggested. I'll keep you posted!

[TVD]

I agree with Mr Kabbaz that no adjustment is possible with so tight and fine a weave as are the S200s. I have noticed that while most shirtmakers do not like flimsy and coarse cheap shirtings, they are not too fond of the highest grade stuff either. Presumably because it is more difficult to work with, or they may think that the additional expense is not warranted. I do not know.

However, I can dispel your doubts about the durability of the S200s fabrics. I have a dozen or so which are more than two years old now. Each is worn at least twice a month, difficult to tell, as they are in rotation with the four dozen or so other shirts that predate them. I would guess they are used more often, because I like wearing them. Some really dreadful stuff becomes eternal by merit of no use, I guess. They have lasted better than Alumo, and much better than Ringhart S140s, I find. The cloth is definitely not getting frail, just the usual abrasion on the edges of collars and cuffs. They will require hand ironing, though.

[AlexanderKabbaz]

However, I can dispel your doubts about the durability of the S200s fabrics. I have a dozen or so which are more than two years old now. Each is worn at least twice a month, difficult to tell, as they are in rotation with the four dozen or so other shirts that predate them. I would guess they are used more often, because I like wearing them. Some really dreadful stuff becomes eternal by merit of no use, I guess. They have lasted better than Alumo, and much better than Ringhart S140s, I find. The cloth is definitely not getting frail, just the usual abrasion on the edges of collars and cuffs. They will require hand ironing, though.

No disagreement with this at all (except the Alumo part). There is no durability issue with the finer cloths, including the 200s, as long as they receive care befitting their stature. I have an Albini 200s worn more than 50 times with no deterioration yet evident even at either collar or cuffs.

[SouthPender]

Thanks again, TVD and Alex. Since I am quite slim, I'm a little concerned about how well very fine cottons will hold their shape and not just sort of droop on my torso because they are too insubstantial to maintain some separation from my body. I suppose one could use sizing, or a little starch, on the fabric to stiffen it a bit, but I'm sure that this would be complete sacrilege with a really fine, top-of-the-line cotton.

[Guest]

I get mainly Alumo and Bonfanti fabrics, I think they are equal quality (apart from Bonfanti's oxford "berna" that is outstanding), but being Bonfanti much cheaper ...

[AlexanderKabbaz]

Since I am quite slim, I'm a little concerned about how well very fine cottons will hold their shape and not just sort of droop on my torso because they are too insubstantial to maintain some separation from my body. I suppose one could use sizing, or a little starch, on the fabric to stiffen it a bit, but I'm sure that this would be complete sacrilege with a really fine, top-of-the-line cotton.

Your concern has merit. You may want to try the Albini 140s Royal Oxfords which have a substantial degree of 'body'. The 200's really are quite flimsy (albeit wonderfully so!). You might also consider a good quality cavalry weave. If you can find Alumo 100s, they are particularly good at this weight. Also, their SupraLuxe (120s or 140s - can't remember which) has a great deal of body. There's also a Royal Twill in the Albini T.M. Silverline which may do the trick. All of the above are a compromise between hedonism and bulk ... leaning toward the former.

[TVD]

I do not think you can use starch on the S200s; I find the cloth will not absorb it properly.

By the by, I am extremely slim myself, and never noticed the lack of bulk to be a problem. However, the D & J Anderson Sea Island S120s are as smooth as the S200s and substantially weightier. I always think of the former as winter, and the latter as summer fabrics.

The twills are divine, by the way. imagine a fabric that is finer than that used for printed silk ties.

While we are on the subject of silk, a question for Mr Kabbaz. I have come across references to silk shirts on a number of occasions, mostly implying a considerable degree of expense (and hopefully a consifderable level of luxuriousness therefore). However, I have never seen any silk shirtings that would come close to the S200s. Emma Willis offers some silk fabrics that are similar to Oxford in character. Could you please tell us what is available, and how it looks and feels. Does anybody offer silk poplin?