Casual jackets

[Manself]

I own lots of warm casual jackets suitable for life on a Scottish farm, and a couple of bespoke overcoats to protect me from the cold winds that blow through Edinburgh's beautiful New Town. But I am all out of ideas the moment I set off for the airport in search of sunnier climes (case in point - I'm in Naples, with a wholly unsuitable quilted Lavenham jacket).

I am seeking a casual jacket in which to travel - something more rugged than a linen sports jacket. What do other members wear? I have in mind something like an M65 that actually fits. Any suggestions welcome!

I have already tried one of Budd's new RTW linen sahariennes, but it didn't work for me.

[uppercase]

Curious, but I was just having similar thoughts about odd jackets but in a different context:
what would the LL members here recommend - color and cloth - for someone wanting to build a core wardrobe of say 6 jackets suitable for city wear.
TIA

[Concordia]

For real urban wear? A navy blazer, a tweed or similar thing in grey, and something maybe a little softer in a neutral tan. For each season. You could fill the cool-weather bill with the Ultimate Blazer, a choice of the Agnelli tweed or maybe the blue/grey gun club, and the shetland that is-- I can't remember-- #8? With the blue overchecks.

For summer, a blazer in fresco or linen to suit your climate and need for formality, maybe a linen/silk (or fresco) in tan, and something else lightweight that is grey or some lighter shade of blue.

[davidhuh]

Dear Manself,

adding to Concordia's list: a Teba coat by Bel & Cie perhaps? They do them in winter and summer cloth.

Cheers, David

[Luca]

In answer to the OP, I think that unless one is rather young or, alternatively, very dashing and thin, field jacket-style garments are not terribly flattering. A man’s jacket already has plenty of pockets, unless you’re on safari or hitting a hot LZ in full battle-rattle…

For warmer climes and a more rugged performance than linen, I would consider an unlined hopsack, perhaps even a mid-weight fresco?

[old henry]

I have just tailored a French farmers coat for myself. The French farmers wear a blue unconstructed coat with oversized patch pockets. Michael Alden gave me this idea. The one I made for myself is made from Huddersfield 9oz worsted and it is constructed. The front edge is a self facing, meaning it is folded over and there is no seam. The front is square. This coat would be great in a very blue denim. I did mine with a slight rope sleeve head, however, I should have taken Michaels advice and made it a shirt sleeve shoulder but the process takes too much time to spend on myself. The overall look is very practical and relaxed.
FS

[old henry]

ps
I will try to post a photo when I get to my shop. It is a blizzard here , believe it or not.

[couch]

Thanks to Old Henry's suggestion via Alden, I did a quick scan online. Here's a version of the basic model in moleskin:



Can't wait to see how Frank has made his up.

[Screaminmarlon]

In linen it'd be sweet (a tad longer)

[alden]

Here is a photo of the coat Frank is making. I hope he sends us better ones, but you get the idea.

Yes it is a longer coat, this version of the French work "blues." Would be great in LL Navy or RAF linen.

Image 4-4-16 at 1.36 PM by The London Lounge, on Flickr

[C.Lee]

Manself, some options for your consideration:






Frank, Michael, nothing but class coming from you guys.


Regards.

[Manself]

Thank you for these replies.

The coat Frank is making sounds great, but it is smarter than the garment I'm trying to imagine. The images C Lee has posted are very helpful, and although its colour is ridiculous the purple four-pocket patch jacket seems closest to the garment I have in mind. It reminds me of Le Corbusier's legendarily ill-fitting Forestiere coat, which is a garment I've long admired.

If I'm not mistaken at least one member here owns a Forestiere - would Concordia be willing to give us the benefit of his experience?

[Melcombe]

Forestiere? Only the French would have a word for it...

What you need is one of these :

(edit - apols,the video owner won't allow other sites to replay..)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmNqlD7R8Pk


The original antarctic-to-jungle attire.

[Concordia]

If I'm not mistaken at least one member here owns a Forestiere - would Concordia be willing to give us the benefit of his experience?

Not a true Forestiere, just an adaptation. On one of the LL cloth threads, I posted links to Steven Hitchcock's site that has some shots.

It's a three-button jacket with equally-spaced buttonholes. As a result, when you flip the collar, it becomes like a 4-button Mandarin-style jacket. I was wearing the LL Donegal in that style today. Good for the snow when it's not too far below freezing and you don't want an overcoat.
You can make with roughly the same chest as a standard sport coat, a little roomier for a single-ply vest, or a bit more like an overcoat if you'll be wearing big sweaters under it.

The notches of the lapel will have to be a hair lower than some tailors like (depending on your neck size), and the waist button will be higher than usual. Which makes it easier to stay buttoned when you slide into your car or bike. You do have to watch the lapel shape so it works when fully closed. Also, the quarters need to be a hair more closed if you're to have a prayer of using that bottom button.

I haven't tried it yet with a light-weight cloth, but I suppose you could. Soft linen, patch pockets (maybe a besom ticket pocket). Even if you don't want to look like a Bond villain by going Chinese, it is a very relaxed-looking 3 button-- almost like 50s Ivy. If I ever find myself in a place where I need to bike slowly in cool but not cold weather, I can see doing one from one of the more conservative reflecting patterns from Dashing Tweeds.