Coat lining treatments

[Guest]

I am going to order 3 suits from my Romanian tailor, 2 summer-weight and 1 3 season. The 3 season I will order fully lined. But the summer-weights I want partially or "un-" lined. Can someone explain what "un-lined" means exactly? 1/4 lined? 1/2 lined?

[Mark Seitelman]

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Go to an Oxxford dealer. Ask to see some of its quarter lined coats.

[Guest]

Since there is none here and I am in savage Philadelphia, could you not try in words to answer my question?

[Guest]

Never mind, there was a pretty good answer to this on Style Forum.

[Leonard Logsdail]

I'll have a go at explaining, David.

Most unlined suit have a full lining through the fronts and what we call a "buggy" lining in the back. Which means it the coat islined across the shoulders but does not go below the shoulder blade area. Some coats have no ling through the fronts, either. With both of these methods the tailor should charge more as it takes far more time to finish the seams off neatly than inhiding them with lining, which is the normal way.

As fro me, I think these half/quarter lined coats are a waste of time. the only lioning that is missing is on the lower back and, for the life of me, I can;t see what difference that will make to the comfort factor. also, lining does more than simply hid ethe seams. It allows the body to slip in the coat and move more ferely once on.

Leonard

[Guest]

Perhaps I misread the various posts on this subject, but has there been evolution over the past century in lining treatments, with preference in Edwardian times for the partially lined treatment?

[TVD]

All Edwardian and 19th Century frockcoats I have seen were fully lined. That may be different in Southern climes.