hectorm wrote:
And it´s definitely a 3 piece affair. Worn unbuttoned and without the vest, the suit looks like it lost most of its character.
BTW, if you haven´t read them so far, I think you would much enjoy the posts at the LL by Frederick Leighton.
Hector,
yes, this is planned as a 3 piece suit. I agree that the cut of the suit needs a waistcoat to look complete.
I have indeed read most of the posts made by Federico and have had some very interesting discussions with him regarding the use of natural lining fabrics... and, like him, I am very interested in having a suit made with a belt-back. Next project...
couch wrote:
I agree with David that braces would suit those trousers very well and keep the line of the pleat at its best. But since you have fitted them with loops, you might consider exchanging the harness leather belt with the roller buckle for a slightly thinner, slightly narrower, and more refined belt--one that allows just a small amount of the trouser waistband to remain visible above and below both the belt and the buckle. The current model seems better suited to more rugged trousers. In this setting it gives the (stylistic) impression of having to work too hard to secure the waist. If the trousers fit at the waist, a more elegant effect will be given by a mid-weight belt that appears to do the job effortlessly (though of course it is doing the job).
EDIT: No one has commented yet on the first picture which shows the jacket closed with the link button rather than the overlap in the lower picture. I think the line of the lapel with the link button is part of the reason that photo show off the suit so well as a three-piece. It's unusual to see these days in a lounge suit, but in this case I think it makes a better line than the overlap button—although that buttoning too may hang better when you stand naturally rather than with legs apart.
Couch,
I fully agree with you regarding the belt, on all points. It will be on top of my purchase list. Thank you.
As for the link button, this is something that I added to make the line of the lapels cleaner, while being fully within the intended style of the 1920s. I am glad to hear that the experiment might have worked!
Scot wrote:
You were obviously trying to achieve a particular effect but I tend to agree that both the arms and the coat itself are too short. In fact, you will find many examples of short coats on the LL because that seems to be "a thing". However, I do think it can look as though it was made for the wearer as a boy and they have now somewhat outgrown it.
Scot,
I do agree with your points here. As you say, this suit was made as an experiment within a very specific framework. But it is very good advice and something I will most definitely keep in mind when ordering the next suit. I also think that a longer jacket would work better with my tall figure.
davidhuh wrote:
White Beard - wear it two days in a row and sleep in it
- well, not really. But wear it all day for a few more times, meet your tailor and do some adjustments.
I final comment: I don't trust your shirt very much - is this RTW? If yes, you should fix it.
David,
I have a meeting planned with my tailor in about a month. During that time I will do my best to "break it in" as best as I can.
As for the shirt, it is not ideal. I will pick a better fitting shirt to wear for the next fitting.
Concordia wrote:
Figure showing 1/4" to 1/2" cuff, unless you're a no-cuff sort of guy (Prince Philip), or inclined toward show biz (Artur Nikisch, Liberace). Obviously, that means having perfectly-placed shirt cuffs.
Concordia,
would the perfect placement of the shirt cuff be at the break of the wrist?
aston wrote:I would also,suggest you ask your tailor to tighten your collar on your neck; in one or two of the shots it looks as though it could stand off a touch.
Aston,
thank you. I will adress this when I meet him next time.
