First bespoke suit (LL Fox Flannel)

[WhiteBeard]

I've received my first bespoke suit from a local tailor. It is also my first suit using a London Lounge cloth, and words do not describe it. When I saw the cloth it was love at first sight.

The tailor and I set out to create a suit with inspiration from the late 1920s and early 1930s, feeling that this would pay proper respect to the extraordinary wool flannel.

As this is my first venture into bespoke clothing, I would gladly hear your feedback, what are your thoughts?

I am sorry for the awkward angle from below, as well as the rumpled look (the photos were taken just after unpacking the suit from its shipping box).










Best regards,
Nat

[Concordia]

The jacket seems short, although this may be part of the period flavor (and might or might not work with the proportions of your frame-- full-length photo will be needed for that).

The sleeves seem to need attention. When your arms are hanging down, the insides of the cuffs are too high. The back of the tricep area might also need some adjustment, but I'll leave that one for the pros after it has settled down and de-wrinkled.

All in all, however, you appear to have found a tailor willing to deliver something with a bit of zing from the jazz age. Not a bad thing, if that is what you like.

[WhiteBeard]

Dear Concordia,

many thanks for your friendly feedback!

Yes, the jacket length is copied from a pattern dating from 1927.
Here is a suit very similar to it:


I will see if I can manage to take a full-length photo.

I agree that the sleeves look strange when seen from behind, I do not think it is because of wrinkling. Is there too much fabric over the tricep area?

This is a great learning experience for me, there are so many details and aspects that new worlds are opening up to me each day...

[hectorm]

As this is my first venture into bespoke clothing, I would gladly hear your feedback, what are your thoughts?

Congratulations, Nat. IMO your suit has captured the spirit of the "casual" suits of that era without looking like a costume.
Your tailor seems to have a soft hand with his stitches. I particularly like the contour of the ventless back. It shows it´s a handmade garment.
To my eye, the fit of the sleeves might need some work.
And it´s definitely a 3 piece affair. Worn unbuttoned and without the vest, the suit looks like it lost most of its character.
BTW, if you haven´t read them so far, I think you would much enjoy the posts at the LL by Frederick Leighton.

[C.Lee]

Nat, well done! You seem comfortable and at home in your suit, which I would rank as job one. There is an ease and balance to the suit - characteristics not to be taken lightly - which you owe to your tailor.

Issues with your sleeve length, fit, whathaveyou may be a result of you being more comfortable around your tailor than you are around a camera. In the shot with your coat open sans-vest, your sleeves look fine.

You mentioned that the suit was freshly unpacked. Has your tailor seen his or her finished work on you? Either way, never pass up face time with your tailor. This may be your first bespoke project, but with access to a local tailor, your relationship has great potential and in many ways you are already well ahead. Visit often, and with cloth in hand.


Regards.

[davidhuh]

Dear White Beard,

first of all: congratulations! It takes courage to such an exercise with the first bespoke suit. You have chosen a beautiful cloth and a very appropriate design.

I agree re. the sleeves, of course. Another recommendation I would have is to wear it with braces. It looks so much nicer than a belt...

Cheers, David

[WhiteBeard]

Dear all,

thank you for your kind and very helpful feedback. Your words mean a lot, since you have all been a great inspiration and source of knowledge for me, through this forum, not in the least through the fantastic works of art you and your tailors have accomplished.

Yes, we have had a lot of dialogue, the tailor and I, and I am really looking forward to nurturing the relationship in order to perhaps do better and better. We both share the love of the golden age of men's wear, which I think is a great starting point, seeing that we share the same ideals when it comes to style.

I will be meeting my tailor next month and will adress the issue of the sleeves. I do think they may be a bit short, even though as C.Lee says, it may have to do a lot with my posture in front of the camera. I will look at it again tomorrow, when I have the suit in my hands. Are there any general guidelines regarding proper sleeve length?

Please excuse these novice questions, but I have never really had a place to ask these questions before. I am wholly alone with my interest, I know nobody in person with whom to discuss these things.

Thank you again,
Nat

[Concordia]

Are there any general guidelines regarding proper sleeve length?

Figure showing 1/4" to 1/2" cuff, unless you're a no-cuff sort of guy (Prince Philip), or inclined toward show biz (Artur Nikisch, Liberace). Obviously, that means having perfectly-placed shirt cuffs.

In your case, you're showing a cuff button (i.e., a little too short in the back), and in the first pic seem to have an uneven amount of exposure unless you are standing with your arms back too far.

[couch]

Congratulations indeed on such a first venture, Nat. The trousers appear to hang very well, especially if they drape as smoothly when you are not standing with your legs apart.

To Concordia's earlier point, once the jacket has settled after hanging and a couple of wearings, if you can arrange to add a photo from the side with your arms hanging relaxed at your sides in your normal posture, it might be easier to see whether what Concordia refers to as the back of the triceps area needs attention or not.

I agree with David that braces would suit those trousers very well and keep the line of the pleat at its best. But since you have fitted them with loops, you might consider exchanging the harness leather belt with the roller buckle for a slightly thinner, slightly narrower, and more refined belt--one that allows just a small amount of the trouser waistband to remain visible above and below both the belt and the buckle. The current model seems better suited to more rugged trousers. In this setting it gives the (stylistic) impression of having to work too hard to secure the waist. If the trousers fit at the waist, a more elegant effect will be given by a mid-weight belt that appears to do the job effortlessly (though of course it is doing the job).

EDIT: No one has commented yet on the first picture which shows the jacket closed with the link button rather than the overlap in the lower picture. I think the line of the lapel with the link button is part of the reason that photo shows off the suit so well as a three-piece. It's unusual to see these days in a lounge suit, but in this case I think it makes a better line than the overlap button—although that buttoning too may hang better when you stand naturally rather than with legs apart.

[Scot]

WhiteBeard, firstly, thank you for posting and welcome to the bespoke adventure!

The collar, lapels and shoulders are really nicely done. Also nice shape to the waist.

You were obviously trying to achieve a particular effect but I tend to agree that both the arms and the coat itself are too short. In fact, you will find many examples of short coats on the LL because that seems to be "a thing". However, I do think it can look as though it was made for the wearer as a boy and they have now somewhat outgrown it.

[WhiteBeard]

Friends,

I took some new photos today, which is about two weeks since the suit was unpacked, so it should have "settled in" a little.

I made sure the camera was set higher up, so the angle would look more normal.

I tried my best in adopting a more "casual" posture and I am frankly stunned by the difference it made in the photos.
The sleeve length looks much better now, but perhaps still a tad on the short side?
And the back of the sleeves still look a bit "loose" to me.

What say you?

Oh, and I used suspenders this time, but the trousers seem to hang a bit low in the photo, please excuse that...

[Concordia]

Front/inside of the sleeve cuffs should come out/down a bit. It is not even around your wrist.

[davidhuh]

Front/inside of the sleeve cuffs should come out/down a bit. It is not even around your wrist.

Dear Concordia,

agree - but it looks better now. I have two suits in this cloth, and it really takes some time to settle in. White Beard - wear it two days in a row and sleep in it - well, not really. But wear it all day for a few more times, meet your tailor and do some adjustments.

I final comment: I don't trust your shirt very much - is this RTW? If yes, you should fix it.

Cheers, David

[Mark Seitelman]

* * *

Yes, the jacket length is copied from a pattern dating from 1927.
Here is a suit very similar to it:


* * *

That's William "Billy" Haines, silent and early sound film star. He left film to become a leading interior decorator to the rich and established of Hollywood.

[aston]

I would also,suggest you ask your tailor to tighten your collar on your neck; in one or two of the shots it looks as though it could stand off a touch. Lovely cloth.