"Frames"

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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uppercase
Posts: 1769
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 3:49 pm

Sat Oct 17, 2015 1:07 am

I like the color pink as much as the next guy.

So when I received a flyer in the mail from Huntsman promoting their 'pink' tweed sports coat, I was sorely tempted.

I've seen the coat, RTW, in their shop and it is very handsome indeed yet....

...why purchase such a bold, notably noticeable coat?
Wouldn't a more subtle, subdued, traditional cloth serve me better?

Alden says that a coat is like a 'frame': properly there to highlight the art within - the shirt, the tie, the face, the perfumed mustache on the face....
In other words, a coat should provide a neutral background, and the focus should be elsewhere.

Which makes me think...why spend $$$ on a pink coat, when I can spend a much more reasonable amount on a pink pullover, a pink shirt, or tie and highlight my mustache rather than my coat?

Doesn't it make sense to just buy a few 'frames', whether suits or coats, and dress them up from the inside, out?
dfoverdx2
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Sat Oct 17, 2015 11:37 am

uppercase,
I think it really depends your bespoke collection. Let's assume that you started bespoking young and your wardrobe is already full of staples and less staples than i think a pink jacket is not a bad idea! Besides that something that i realized few people in bespoke is going out of classic jacketings. I've recently looked at some Cifonelli creations and i decided to do some different jacketings (different styles) to wear during weekends or even casual workdays.
So my take is exploit full bespoke opportunities, go out of classic jacketing style for such cloths.
davidhuh
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Sat Oct 17, 2015 3:05 pm

Dear Uppercase,

good point. In fashion, such a coat is called a conversation piece, and I think the term nails it. People who have seen you wearing it will always remember "that pink coat". Which means that you can safely wear it once or twice a year. If your wardrobe is large, it doesn't matter.

Although my wardrobe is, hm, not exactly small, I would not invest in such a piece. I love colours, even bold ones. But I prefer using waist coats, pullovers, ties & pochettes to do the job. I find this more interesting, honestly.

Cheers, David
andreyb
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Sat Oct 17, 2015 4:31 pm

What Alden advocates for is an English approach to dressing. Sober frame, wild shirting & tie. Neapolitans, IMHO, dress in opposite way -- solid blue / bengal stripe shirt, small floral tie, wild coats.

How Lagrange... I mean, Huntsman wants their clients to dress, is a different story.

Andrey
gegarrenton
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Sat Oct 17, 2015 7:38 pm

andreyb wrote:What Alden advocates for is an English approach to dressing. Sober frame, wild shirting & tie. Neapolitans, IMHO, dress in opposite way -- solid blue / bengal stripe shirt, small floral tie, wild coats.

How Lagrange... I mean, Huntsman wants their clients to dress, is a different story.

Andrey
Huntsman has always had very loud tweeds in the lineup. As mentioned above, generally rare use conversation pieces.

I probably going to end up with a pink tweed before it's all said and done myself.
sparrow
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Sat Oct 17, 2015 10:59 pm

Sports jackets with a very loud check abound in the issues of Esquire from the 50s and 60s - the later, the louder. Just like in earlier decades, it seems they were promoting them for use on weekends when you were catching a game or going outside the metropole. They seemed to make them work as a feature, so I think I could personally imagine a situation where a pink jacket would work, especially if the spring weather were starting to pick up.

The sources I have in mind are all firmly American and I can't think of a British fashion equivalent until the 70s, but then I don't know the British sources that well! When I think along those lines, with my limited knowledge, I end up channelling Sebastian Flyte.
rodes
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Sat Oct 17, 2015 11:27 pm

It would never do for me, but it might still be for you. Estimate the cost per wear for this item vs. a navy blazer or a traditional Scottish tweed. My guess is at least 25 times as high. If that does not dissuade you then go for it.
alden
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Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:01 am

"Judge, your honor, I've been framed..." Well I am a frame advocate ergo no pink coats for me UC.

I have found over the years that the real test in designing sportscoats is getting that fine line between sufficient interest in the pattern and colors while maintaining the essential frame. It's like having your cake and eating it to, the best possible combination of effects. Balance. We see it in all things beautiful. Something attracts our eye, it lingers, explores, senses, and enjoys. Beauty is an itch there is no scratch for.

Most sportscoats are either dark, deadly dull or brutally loud. And a pink coat is as subtle as a chain saw...ouch, you'll never really wear it.

Cheers
bond_and_beyond
Posts: 409
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Sun Oct 18, 2015 12:06 pm

Sonny Crockett says go for it:

Image


BB
gegarrenton
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Mon Oct 19, 2015 2:29 pm

bond_and_beyond wrote:Sonny Crockett says go for it:

Image


BB
That's a fantastic Florida/Caribbean look.
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