Highest Quality Bespoke Ties

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Marinella produced my bespoke ties in 1 day in Naples while I was there.
Definitely made locally in Naples.
RTW, cannot say where made but cannot imagine that anywhere else could produce a lower cost quality tie than Naples.
Always nice to see the owner on site. Maurizio Marinella was there daily every time I dropped by. Marinella is a big business now, but he was there.
Very classic Neapolitan ties but not strong on the beautiful British regimental style.

[Frederic Leighton]

I collected my second order at Drake's factory ten days ago and the experience has been very positive. The Creative Director interrupted a meeting to come give me the tie personally, together with some explainations of the process and of the way they manage the design and production of the cloths they use. I was surprised to hear that they use very small runs of silk, with orders usually around 3.5m of lenght.

When they received my tie back from who does the hand-rolling, the sides of the front blade weren't perfectly 'clean' anymore due to a too light interlining for the wool cloth the tie is made of. They opened the tie and completely remade it with a slightly heavier, but still light, interlining. Outstanding results.

[davidc]

If anyone passes through Tokyo I would strongly recommend dropping by tieyourtie in Aoyama. I have four from them, two bespoke, and I now wear nothing else.

[Mark Seitelman]

I recently received two ties from Sam Hober.

I am very satisfied, and I shall return.

On a side note the customer service, communication, and promptness are all excellent.

[mafoofan]

Marinella does make fantastic bespoke ties, but the ones they made for me are very different from the sort I get from Rubinacci and Cappelli. The latter two default to hand-rolled edges and little or no interlining. In contrast, my Marinella's are all lined and include fairly thick canvas interlining. I have come to prefer lighter, softer ties over the years, but I cannot fault Marinella workmanship or taste.

[David Hober]

Mafoofan,

I am curious what makes you think they are using canvas as the interlining?

I ask as I have never seen a luxury tie that was made with canvas. Normally a soft, woven and combed wool, that is woven in Italy is used and at times a layer of cotton (typically light) is layered on top to add volume but not weight.

Also if a heavy luxury silk is used the tie will not be light regardless of the interlining weight or tie construction.

When a tie has the correct wool interlining (for the tie's fabric) it will hold its structure over time and drape very well.

I have never met the Marinella tie team but I imagine if you explain to them what you want they can craft your ties as you like them and do a very good job,

[mafoofan]

Forgive my poor terminology. You are correct, they use a wool interlining.

Depending on the silk, both Rubinacci and Cappelli often elect to use no interlining at all in my seven-folds. I ask them to use their own judgment.

[David Hober]

Mafoofan,

"I ask them to use their own judgment"

Perfect - it sounds like you understand how to order a bespoke tie. Don't try this at home... but you can crumble up a tie in your hand that has a good interlining and it will bounce back into shape.
"no interlining at all in my seven-folds"

This is a tricky judgement call as often when a gentleman orders a 7-fold it is because he likes the look of the knot and drape of the tie and the history of the construction and the craftsmanship that goes into making it.

We normally make all our 7-folds as unlined ties and our 6-folds as lined ties. Most people prefer 6-folds except for those whom the craft and history is important,

[Mark Seitelman]

One suggestion for ordering from Sam Hober or any other internet maker:

If you have a particular color or shade in mind, get swatches. The computer image and verbal description cannot duplicate the true color and texture.

Mr. Hober will send swatches at a small cost to cover his postage.

[Dr T]

pagean - I fully agree

[Dr T]

Mark - "Mr. Hober will send swatches at a small cost to cover his postage". I, along with 8% of the UK male population am a little bit colour blind -this service is a great help to me as the duty of selecting the right colours; falls to my wife.

[Simon]

I think Vanda have been mentioned before on the thread, but let's do so again for good measure.

Great service - they will make to your measurements for SGD20 the first time and SGD10 for successive ties. And the quality - well it's at least as good as anything else I own (Drakes, Marinella, Antonio Muro, Panta etc) and with a pleasingly wide selection of fabrics.

Because of the unlined / lightly lined construction, each tie feels very different as a result of the different fabrics they are constructed from. This may appeal to some and not to others, but if you are a fan of light construction then they are well worth investigating.

[Frederic Leighton]

I think Vanda have been mentioned before on the thread, but let's do so again for good measure.

Thank you for the review, Simon! Although I'm quite happy with Drake's, I've been thinking of testing the waters for quite a while now; waiting for the right moment when I don't have too many projects going on all at the same time. How long does it take to have a bespoke tie made and shipped to London?

Thanks and kind regards,
f

[Concordia]

There are some nice items on the Vanda website. I wonder if they will do single-size bowties.

I just got some junk mail from another source last week-- Emma Willis is now offering a range of widths and lengths on their website for certain models. Not full-bespoke nirvana (yet), but for those who are tired of everything being 57" long, it's another breath of fresh air.

[Scot]

There are some nice items on the Vanda website. I wonder if they will do single-size bowties.

I just got some junk mail from another source last week-- Emma Willis is now offering a range of widths and lengths on their website for certain models. Not full-bespoke nirvana (yet), but for those who are tired of everything being 57" long, it's another breath of fresh air.

Emma Willis ties used to be made by Drake.