Christmas in Vienna

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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whittaker
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Sun Nov 13, 2005 7:55 pm

Every other year, my family visit another city at Christmas. This year we are off to spend the Christmas week in Vienna. Our booking was made later than planned so we missed our first choice hotels and are due to stay at the Intercontinental Wien. Its not as central as I wished but looks acceptable.

Who knows Vienna? Can you recommend local artisans? So far I have planned to visit Knize and inspect their fragrances. Also we have an ambition to have some bespoke gloves made but no idea of a suitable artisan. Other suggestions for artisans, cultural or culinary pursuits would be highly appreciated.

Anthony
TVD
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Sun Nov 13, 2005 9:35 pm

Vienna is a glorious choice, and it makes me feel very envious. I fear I have no first hand experience with artisans, though.

For hotels, the Intercontinental sounds fine, but did you try to get anything at the Schwarzenberg? Even the cheap rooms overlooking the "Ehrenhof" can be recommended.

For restaurants, nothing beats the style of the Korso at the Bristol hotel. The food is excellent, especially their Tafelspitz.
maxnharry
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Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:14 pm

Make sure that you visit Cafe Demel. A wonderful slice (pardon the pun) of old Wien.
RWS
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Mon Nov 14, 2005 3:15 am

Vienna is (or was, years ago, when I was best acquainted with it) one of the loveliest cities in the world. I'm certain you have a good idea of the many galleries, theaters, museums, and churches to visit; but just wandering the streets and parks is delightful, for the extraordinary architecture, the kindly people, the joy of being in such a place.

I know nothing first-hand of the sartorial craftsmen of the city. But, in addition to the highly-regarded tailors at Knize, I'd want very much to visit Rudolf Scheer u. S., fine shoemakers.
jasstoltz
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Tue Nov 15, 2005 3:50 pm

If you're looking for something to read when there (or before) and enjoy mysteries, take a look at Frank Tallis' Mortal Mischief set in fin-de-siecle Vienna.

Full disclosure: I'm working on the US edition of this book.
whittaker
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Tue Nov 15, 2005 4:43 pm

Thank you all for those suggestions. I have made a note and will follow up your kind recommendations.
rjman
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Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:03 pm

Also the Cafe Dommayer out near Schonbrunn Palace -- a truly wonderful old cafe. Yum.
Incroyable
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Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:10 pm

Since you are going to Knize, which was designed by Adolf Loos I also suggest the Kaertner or American Bar, also desined by Adolf Loos.

It is a small jewel of a bar, located at Karntner Durchgang 10.
whittaker
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Sat Dec 31, 2005 7:02 pm

With only five days in Vienna this Christmas, it was beneficial to have advice about where to visit. Thank you again.

TVD: the Korso was a delightful venue to have my first Tafelspitz. My second I am preparing for New Year's lunch with a few friends.

maxnharry: the Demel's was wonderful, particularly for my five-year old daughter. There are only 2 places that make authentic sachertorte. The Demel is one.

RWS: sadly Rudolf Scheer was closed for the duration of my visit.

Knize was the a highlight of the trip with its delicious Loos interior. Their bespoke suits are Neapolitan in style with beautiful soft shoulders. I had a chance to look at a range at various stages, a fair number in cashmere/woollen blends and one in an alpaca/wool mix. Knize bespoke costs about 5000 euros for a 2-piece. They also make bespoke shirts. Their RTW suits are all Brioni, with some gorgeous fabrics. Cashmere jumpers in a huge range of colours are all Loro Piana. The Knize Ten cologne won me over instantly and my wife seconds later. It is a glorious, complex winter scent.

Other restaurants I would highly recommend are the Morwen in the Ambassadeurs Hotel and the Cantinetta Antinori, a taste of Tuscany in old Vienna.
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