first journey into bespoke

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

C.Lee
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Sat Jan 31, 2015 12:34 am

graysonhenryrussell wrote:... I would like to commission two suits & a overcoat while I am there as I live in Charlotte n.c. ...
Grayson, you have made your decision.

I hope you will allow yourself further commissions beyond your initial order, as the beauty of bespoke tailoring is the ability to refine and grow the relationship between you and your tailor over time. Relationship is used here to capture multiple things: your growth as a bespeaker, the tailor's knowledge of their client, the refinement of your pattern, and the development of the working relationship. The first order is just a first dance. Regardless of the moves thrown down on the dance floor, there are many more dances to be had and enjoyed.

Enjoy the handwork, individualization, provenance and experience. It's all a stepping stone towards a most beautiful world.


Regards.
Dr T
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Sat Jan 31, 2015 5:30 am

For me a few things I do like to be sure of. Its important that I like the Tailor and we are on the same wave length. I always need to know who's making what and exactly where its being made. I like to see examples of finished work - all before I commit to buy. There is some very good advice here from other LL's as you would expect - welcome to the great world of bespoke. :D
andreyb
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Sat Jan 31, 2015 8:50 am

Do you know when and how you'll meet with your chosen tailors again -- at least for fittings (which is a must!), preferably to check fit of finished garments along with the tailor as well?

If you don't, your bespoke order would be just an expensive mistake.

Andrey
graysonhenryrussell
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Sun Feb 01, 2015 8:28 am

I will come to london for all the fittings. I will be be there for 10 days & the houses I spoke with told me they could get the baste fitting ready before I leave so that will help me as far as visits I have to make. I feel as though I need to be in house for first ones I have commissioned. I hope to come out of this with 2 suits & overcoat for next fall.
gegarrenton
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Sun Feb 01, 2015 2:36 pm

Shouldn't have any issue with that time frame. When will your next trip be?
uppercase
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Sun Feb 01, 2015 9:44 pm

Is this Marc Grayson from filmnoirbuff?
gegarrenton
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Sun Feb 01, 2015 10:35 pm

uppercase wrote:Is this Marc Grayson from filmnoirbuff?
No.
graysonhenryrussell
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Mon Feb 02, 2015 12:20 am

I am leaving on the 22 of this month & coming back on the 28. I saw the london lounge fox flannels book & have picked out a charcoal & blue 17oz cloths. Also going to use their 26 oz for a overcoat. I guess I am safe using the heavier cloths. Thanks. Grayson. P.S. I don't know who Marc grayson is but grayson henry Russell is my real name.
andreyb
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Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:15 am

graysonhenryrussell wrote:I will come to london for all the fittings. I will be be there for 10 days & the houses I spoke with told me they could get the baste fitting ready before I leave so that will help me as far as visits I have to make. I feel as though I need to be in house for first ones I have commissioned. I hope to come out of this with 2 suits & overcoat for next fall.
Then you are good to go.

Two more suggestions (if it is not too late):
1) Bring a picture of a suit / overcoat you have in mind (usually we all inspired by some photos that can be used as a reference)
2) Wear your most comfortable / favorite suit. It will help a tailor to assess both balance and your preferences.

Andrey
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culverwood
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Mon Feb 02, 2015 12:15 pm

If you are going to buy two suits and a coat they do not all have to come from the same tailor. As has been said before it is best to start with a single garment at a tailors. Using different tailors would enable you to choose which one you want a longer term relationship with based on style and the people you are dealing with and whether they can work to the time scale you are looking for,
Mark Seitelman
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Mon Feb 02, 2015 5:28 pm

graysonhenryrussell wrote: * * * The houses I am looking at are Davies & son, Poole & Anderson Sheppard. Are there any of the houses on the Row to avoid at all cost. * * *

All of these are fine, reliable firms. You will not go wrong with any of them.

I have used Davies, and I recommend them. As for the others, I haven't used them, but friends vouch for them.
Rob A
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Mon Feb 02, 2015 11:51 pm

Even though you plan to do all fittings for these in London, you may still want to take your potential tailor's regular travel schedule into account as you narrow your choices. You will find it handy to use a tailor who regularly travels to somewhere convenient to you for future projects. Poole, for example, used to have Atlanta on their regular travel schedule. I would assume they still do. Not sure about the others you mentioned.

Personally, I find it very convenient that Steed travel to Nashville almost quarterly. My other favorite tailor is in Chicago (and Dallas occasionally), and I travel there regularly anyway for business and to visit family.
gegarrenton
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Tue Feb 03, 2015 1:53 pm

Rob A wrote: Poole, for example, used to have Atlanta on their regular travel schedule. I would assume they still do.

Yes, they still do ATL twice a year.
Concordia
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Tue Feb 03, 2015 2:09 pm

Also, many SR firms go to DC, in case that is convenient for OP. Anderson & Sheppard do that at least once a year, for example.
graysonhenryrussell
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Tue Feb 03, 2015 7:29 pm

I just spoke with A&S today & I am seeing Mr Hall who took Mr Hitchcocks place & Mr Malone who is their trouser cutter. Anyone familiar with either of these gentlemen? I decided I will get something from Poole, Davies & son & Anderson Sheppard. I need to decide on which one of these I use for the overcoat. Thanks. Grayson
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