The overcoat conundrum.

[alden]

So you've decided to go the Jack Favell route after all!

Good choice..I would have left off the collar trim, but you know that.

Looking forward to pics. I have a vintage heavy camelhair I have to make up for next Winter and my plan was SB, 3 buttons showing.

Cheers

[Melcombe]

A busy day yesterday - but in the morning called by my tailor to collect the finished article.

Why is it that when you set aside an appointment for (lets be frank... ) a bit of pure self-indulgence, fate conspires to temper the event? About the time I called in to his workshop, it had begun raining in Biblical style which even the best efforts of a large umbrella struggled with> When I arrived, the flat over the workshop (let out to someone else) had caught fire the night before and the poor chap was organising calls to the insurance company etc...

Anyhoo - collect the coat I did. And I am very pleased indeed with the result.

Here's a pic in the kitchen (poor lighting, sorry)



(The coat had been hanging slightly damp in the back of the car so a wee bit of creasing.)

The finished project is in a Chesterfield style as you can see, but the cloth has quite a lot of bulk yet is lighter and softer than you might suppose. Its therefore cut slightly looser than maybe we would have done with a tighter denser cloth. It is remarkably warm without being stifling - I think the weave of the cloth has a lot to do with that. I had contemplated a 'warm' lining and Im glad I didn't - the lining is, again, thick without being overly dense; the pockets have a moleskin lining for hand-warming effect. Im really pleased with the velvet collar - this is a heavy silk velvet with a very directional nap.

The coat was measured over the suit Im wearing in the pic. I can happily say that the shoulders of the suit slot into the coat like fingers in a glove, it's also snugly waisted as a side view would show with plenty of skirt to the rear. Also because the coat is light, the sensation of wearing it is quite peculiar : you know very well that you are wearing a coat, but theres no sensation of pressure as you move about. Odd but very nice.

Some detail :



I understand this stitching took a good deal more work than anticipated, but the result was worth the effort, I hope you'll agree. Here's the Crombie label that came with the cloth - Ive not seen it in this form before - can anyone date it? (I know the cloth is at least 20 years old).



There it is. Another few inches of wardrobe space conceded in a good cause : my (UK) cold weather coat. I don't think there's another one quite like it !

Regards

David

[uppercase]

Very nice Melcombe! And your enthusiasm for the project is infectious and written as a true bespoke enthusiast!

Here's Milstil's site just for Polos:

http://polocoat.tumblr.com/

[hectorm]

Melcombe, you got yourself a very nice Chesterfield in a very out-of-the-ordinary cloth. Love the brown velvet and the "vintage" fabric makes it look like you've been wearing the coat for many years. Congratulations!
Although the picture's focus and perspective don't allow seeing all in detail, is it possible that the collar might be sitting a bit high leaving a gap in the back?

[Melcombe]

Melcombe, you got yourself a very nice Chesterfield in a very out-of-the-ordinary cloth. Love the brown velvet and the "vintage" fabric makes it look like you've been wearing the coat for many years. Congratulations!
Although the picture's focus and perspective don't allow seeing all in detail, is it possible that the collar might be sitting a bit high leaving a gap in the back?

Good point - it is indeed a rubbish photo, not helped by my retouching to render myself an 'International Man of Mystery' (Im pretty darn anonymous even without my face blanked). I think it's the retouch that brings up a shadow. However, not leaving such things to chance, I have contrived to obtain what the young folk refer to as a 'selfie'...



Now, don't underestimate my trepidation in presenting myself to LL members, parading without a tie - or indeed with my weekend beard : my plea in mitigation is that it's Sunday and I'm struggling to boil up & bottle Marmalade Batch No.2 before the working week begins again at 5am tomorrow...

The lie of the collar was, in the event, a point of particular discussion during the making. As the cloth was very 'drape-y' we had discussed whether the collar would need any additional stiffening for fear of becoming very misshapen /rolling over time. The maestro advised against it : the velvet fabric is quite robust, it is woven with a fairly stiff base which is heavy enough for furnishing (I'm told).

The line of the 'v' at the front is intended to match the cut of the underlying suit (all the suit coats I've had from him, bar my dinner jacket, are of the same SB style) - hopefully they'll all align... (Im not sure the Tattersall check shirt and the chalk stripe edition work in combination, but it was the only coat to hand!).

Right, all I need now is a few days of sub-zero weather so that I can give it a good airing in Town. (BTW, that's wimpish Centigrade sub-zero - it's all we can cope with in S England). The forecast is for more gales and rain instead. Pah!

Regards

David

[Malandro]

This one I received as a New Year´s present from my Russian girlfriend. It is completely (including arms) lined with the same fur as the collar. Outside is suede. As it is not suitable for temperatures above -5°C I call it my snowpolocoat.

[hectorm]

The lie of the collar was, in the event, a point of particular discussion during the making. As the cloth was very 'drape-y' we had discussed whether the collar would need any additional stiffening for fear of becoming very misshapen /rolling over time. The maestro advised against it : the velvet fabric is quite robust, it is woven with a fairly stiff base which is heavy enough for furnishing

The close-up shows the collar sitting exactly where is should, Melcombe.
And also shows the great character of both, cashemere cloth and velvet, much better. Enjoy!
One final curiousity: is there a special reason why you asked (if you did) your tailor to saw the Crombie label on the lining? Although I find it odd for a bespoke garment, I also thought it could serve as an eventual warning for conscientious cleaners.

[uppercase]

wow, Malandro, that coat is unbelievable!
Made in Russia?
How do I find a Russian girlfriend like yours in time for New Years 2015?

[Malandro]

Uppercase, as it was a gift I know few details. I assume it was made by some Siberian furrier.

I met her in St. Moritz, maybe you should go there as well. I was lucky to sit in the right chairlift at the right moment.

[uppercase]

Jeez, some guys have all the luck!
How does this life work?
I'm off to Sochi now to start all over.

[Melcombe]

One final curiousity: is there a special reason why you asked (if you did) your tailor to saw the Crombie label on the lining? Although I find it odd for a bespoke garment, I also thought it could serve as an eventual warning for conscientious cleaners.

TBH I'd not given that a lot of thought. The cloth came with the label hanging from one corner. I left it on there simply because before I found the cloth, we had been discussing the idea of an overcoat in general terms and I had asked whether he had any Crombie cloth.

I had an overcoat, as a student, that had been beautifully made for a (by then, late) surgeon from West Sussex in a lovely RAF blue grey Crombie wool cashmere mix. My tailor had nodded some approval at the idea of (old) Crombie cloth, so I left the label more for curiosity's sake.

However... Now I come to think of it, the last overcoat he made me has a John G Hardy label in it (its a JGH tweed) and my DJ has a Fox's ''West of England' label referring to the barathea.

He has never put his own name label in any of my suits or trousers - I don't think he uses one. Is that uncommon for out of London tailors? He is a very modest man although with a remarkable set of skills, and yet he happily puts other people's labels In his work.

For my part, I think that is most endearing.

I've just found a 5m length of 9oz wool mohair dark, dark grey for my next project (but only after I've paid my daughter's dentists latest bill - even for a tooth bandit, the guy charges like the Light Brigade).

When i do get round to comissioning the suit, I've an idea I might keep the William Halstead label in the drawer and let the cut do all the shouting?

[hectorm]

I thought I should update this thread with a piece of information than many of the LL fellow members will surely appreciate.
The 200 years old firm Crombie, since 1990 on Conduit St., has started offering MTM service on their famed overcoats. They are honest enough no to call it bespoke (they work on their own basic patterns) but everything else is there: traditional craft, big selection of cloths including cashmere, vicuna, melton, raw wool, linings, velvets, buttons, and infinite possibilities of personalizing the garment. Expected price, around GBP 1600 and delivery within 8 weeks. Based on the good quality of their RTW covert and great coats the last time I checked them in London, I think it can be an option to seriously consider.

[VRaivio]

My solution to year-round wear in Northern EU weather: a navy blue cotton-wool 50/50 mix Loro Piana Storm System fabric coat with separate torso and sleeve zipper lining. With the lining on, it's as warm as they come without fur. With the lining off, it can do no harm in spring and early summer.

[ethandesu]

At 181cm tall and a healthy 105 kilos, my overcoat is as below - a Martingala style coat by Liverano & Liverano. It is lined in a wool challis, presumably woven in the 50's to make ties from.
Not often needed in Hong Kong, but very handy when I travel in the winter.



ethandesu

[Slewfoot]

Excellent coat, Ethan! Smashing stuff.