A&S critic

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

dempsy444
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Fri Aug 02, 2013 6:08 pm

pur_sang wrote:
alden wrote:Their advice is more valuable than that of an internet merchandiser.
Cannot agree more.

Although it seems I did not read enough regarding the lightweight cloth. However, my other tailor seemed to have dealt with a similar weight cloth perfectly fine, but maybe, still a different cloth.
But was your other tailor a "soft" tailor too or did he make a more structured suit? I had a suit made by a tailor in the US using 10 oz and it feels just right but he builds a little more structure into his suit that A&S.
pur_sang
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Fri Aug 02, 2013 6:31 pm

My other tailor is A.Caraceni of Milano. I don't know what they are classified as, but the suit certainly feels light and very comfortable.
dempsy444
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Sat Aug 03, 2013 12:15 am

Interesting, as A. Caraceni is pretty soft tailoring from what I've read, though their suits appear to have a little more structure to them then A&S's (I dont' know if this is true or not, just guessing from the photos online).
C.Lee
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Sat Aug 03, 2013 4:32 am

I have been enjoying the dialogue of this thread. So many other threads critiquing work turn negative as to overshadow any useful information.

pur_sang wrote:... my other tailor used a very similar fabric (same book same weight different colour) and produced something far superior... My other tailor is A.Caraceni of Milano. I don't know what they are classified as, but the suit certainly feels light and very comfortable.
Makes sense that two different tailors resulted in coats of differing expression, despite both being of a "soft" nature.

Putting the shape of the A&S coat aside, how does it feel?

pur_sang wrote:...All I am saying is that, I fit well in most clothes, and was just disappointed with my A&S experience.
pur_sang, I applaud you for following through on your initial interest of A&S, and reporting back on your experience. Having gone through it, what would you do differently if at all? Or asked another way, what have you learned from your experience?
pur_sang
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Sat Aug 03, 2013 8:34 am

dempsy444, I will say the A.Caraceni probably has less structure, but it does look more structured. If you felt the garment, it does not feel thick or padded anywhere.

C.Lee, the A&S coat feels good, but the fact that I know the back of the coat is not to my satisfaction always plays on my mind a little bit. I believe the waistcoat and trousers are good, and the three piece do look good together for the most part. I stared at the A&S window for over five years before I committed (and a couple of years staring at it through the internet in Australia), as I went from not being able to afford it, to being able to afford it, to not having time to see them, to finally especially making time to see them. I had to go through with it, and I don't regret it, as that's the only way I know, is to experience. I have learnt that I really need to think more about cloth, and realise how cloth can make or break a garment. I almost gave this zero thought before hand. Otherwise, I will not change much, I will still listen to the cutter as much as possible, and let him do his job to the best of his ability.

I probably should post some pictures, might help the discussion.
alden
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Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:46 am

and the three piece do look good together for the most part. I stared at the A&S window for over five years before I committed (and a couple of years staring at it through the internet in Australia), as I went from not being able to afford it, to being able to afford it, to not having time to see them, to finally especially making time to see them. I had to go through with it, and I don't regret it, as that's the only way I know, is to experience. I have learnt that I really need to think more about cloth, and realise how cloth can make or break a garment. I almost gave this zero thought before hand. Otherwise, I will not change much, I will still listen to the cutter as much as possible, and let him do his job to the best of his ability.
Pur_Sang

Great stuff you have written here. I appreciate the patience and thoughfulness. Yes, let us see some pictures.

As regards cloth, you can't make a great omlette with rotten eggs. I often tell the story of my cooking lessons. I had private lessons from a great young chef. The first two lessons we did not go near the kitchen. We went to the market instead where he taught me how to choose the best products..."What use is it for me to teach you to cook, if you don't know how to choose the very best products the market has available?", he used to say. He was right.

Cheers
dempsy444
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Sat Aug 03, 2013 6:04 pm

pur_sang wrote:dempsy444, I will say the A.Caraceni probably has less structure, but it does look more structured. If you felt the garment, it does not feel thick or padded anywhere.
Sounds like a great suit. Would be interesting to see a pic of your A. Caraceni and A&S.
C.Lee
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Tue Aug 06, 2013 4:03 am

pur_sang, thank you for your story. It is those like yours, told from personal experience, that I most enjoy hearing about.

I was reading up on exploration, and came across the quote below. We are all explorers in some way.

"Men Wanted: For hazardous journey. Small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful. Honour and recognition in case of success.”
― Ernest Shackleton
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