Seems like another case of the dreaded pear shape linked to Anderson and Sheppard´s soft tailoring. No matter what A&S fans say, it´s an undeniable result of that house original style on some body types.pur_sang wrote: The coat is a bit shapeless despite the cutter saying he's done something to give it more waist.... The reason given is 1) my butt is too big.
A&S critic
Interesting. Why would A&S drape not work for a "pear shape"? Is there a particular style that works better?hectorm wrote:Seems like another case of the dreaded pear shape linked to Anderson and Sheppard´s soft tailoring. No matter what A&S fans say, it´s an undeniable result of that house original style on some body types.pur_sang wrote: The coat is a bit shapeless despite the cutter saying he's done something to give it more waist.... The reason given is 1) my butt is too big.
dempsy444 wrote:Interesting. Why would A&S drape not work for a "pear shape"? (...)hectorm wrote:Seems like another case of the dreaded pear shape linked to Anderson and Sheppard´s soft tailoring. No matter what A&S fans say, it´s an undeniable result of that house original style on some body types.pur_sang wrote: The coat is a bit shapeless despite the cutter saying he's done something to give it more waist.... The reason given is 1) my butt is too big.
I'd be delighted with the look of the chap in the grey suit. I am not much slighter than him myself.
Graydon Carter looks very good in an A&S SB blazer
http://www.styleforum.net/t/147520/a-s/ ... st_4932452
Graydon Carter looks very good in an A&S SB blazer
http://www.styleforum.net/t/147520/a-s/ ... st_4932452
Anderson & Sheppard´s soft style, no doubt, conforms very elegantly around one´s shape. So if you´re very happy with your own pear, tomato or breadstick shape, then this is the style for you because it will show it like it is. Their soft style will not give you a pear shape if you don´t already naturally have it (and, by the way, in the case of great cutters like the ones at A&S, Steed, S. Hitchcock, etc. it will fit extremely well with even some illusion of waist given by the play of the drape).dempsy444 wrote: Why would A&S drape not work for a "pear shape"? Is there a particular style that works better?
But IMO A&S style works better aesthetically on people who actually have shoulders and some waist. A little more structured style -if well executed- would flatter more a silhouette that lacks those features.
well, i have a 39 inch chest, 32-33 inch waist, and a 39 inch bum... i'm six foot 2 inches tall.
i dont really consider myself pear shaped.
i dont really consider myself pear shaped.
pur_sang wrote: I had my coat cut by Mr. Hall. I am not entirely satisfied with the results
pur_sang wrote: The reason given is 1) my butt is too big
A 6.5 inch drop is average for a slim person (at least that´s what you get in RTW suits). But -and I hope this will not sound bad- a bum of the same girth of the chest is exactly the measurement you would expect in female beauty pageants.pur_sang wrote: i have a 39 inch chest, 32-33 inch waist, and a 39 inch bum.
My guess is that if Mr. Hall had suppressed the waist to make it more "shapely", it would have created lots of tension on your front opening and side vents (or exaggerated an hour glass figure, not precisely what we´d want either).
Ha! I see what you meanpur_sang wrote:
I try not to take offense. Yes, great female bodies tend to have those characteristics, but, so do great male bodies. The difference is the drop as you mentioned, a female will have a 10-12 inch drop, whereas a male will have a 6-8 inch drop. It all comes down to proportions.hectorm wrote:But -and I hope this will not sound bad- a bum of the same girth of the chest is exactly the measurement you would expect in female beauty pageants.
Using your logic, will someone that have a 38, 38, 38 measurement, 'a bum of the same girth of the chest' be what they expect in female beauty pageants too? You have to consider all three measurements.
All I am saying is that, I fit well in most clothes, and was just disappointed with my A&S experience.
Pur_sang: you have taken it very graciously. I regret having made that reference.pur_sang wrote:I try not to take offense.....It all comes down to proportions.
I'm afraid I still don't get one very important point: have you figured out whether the cause of your disapointment is in this particular job they have (or haven't) done for you? or is it more related to your having chosen their peculiar house style? Maybe both?pur_sang wrote: All I am saying is that, I fit well in most clothes, and was just disappointed with my A&S experience.
I'm a novice in this game, so I always trust the cutter, and I tell them to do what they do best, so effectively choosing their house style.
I think A&S can do a fine job, as witnessed in the clothes the staff wears. So it could simply be a matter of iterations, but personally, I don't have 4000 pounds to throw around for each iteration. I get compliments everywhere I go when I wear the work of my other Italian tailor, so I prefer them.
I think it might also be the cloth I chose being too light, 10-11oz (I think).
I really need to up my knowledge on cloth, now I think I know why all the cutters/tailors on this forum always like heavier, sturdy cloth.
I think A&S can do a fine job, as witnessed in the clothes the staff wears. So it could simply be a matter of iterations, but personally, I don't have 4000 pounds to throw around for each iteration. I get compliments everywhere I go when I wear the work of my other Italian tailor, so I prefer them.
I think it might also be the cloth I chose being too light, 10-11oz (I think).
I really need to up my knowledge on cloth, now I think I know why all the cutters/tailors on this forum always like heavier, sturdy cloth.
I could see that with A&S since they probably don’t use much canvas. Maybe you need heavier cloth for it to drape better as a result. Whenever I see an A&S double breasted in a photo it is usually the heavier wools and flannels that look the sharpest to my eye, like a gray chalk striped flannel.pur_sang wrote:I'm a novice in this game, so I always trust the cutter, and I tell them to do what they do best, so effectively choosing their house style.
I think A&S can do a fine job, as witnessed in the clothes the staff wears. So it could simply be a matter of iterations, but personally, I don't have 4000 pounds to throw around for each iteration. I get compliments everywhere I go when I wear the work of my other Italian tailor, so I prefer them.
I think it might also be the cloth I chose being too light, 10-11oz (I think).
I really need to up my knowledge on cloth, now I think I know why all the cutters/tailors on this forum always like heavier, sturdy cloth.
I used 11 oz for a suit made by another Row tailor on the more structured side and found it a bit heavier than I like due to the very heavy canvas they use, so canvas can make a big difference in addition to cloth weight.
It would be nice if Simon Crompton published a little book exclusively on cloth like he did on tailoring in "tailoring" by Le Snob press. I would certainly read it.
Dempsey
Use your search function to access reams of information on cloth written by very experienced bespeakers (and cloth designers ) who are both knowledgeable and disinterested. Their advice is more valuable than that of an internet merchandiser.
If you had been reading your LL you would have learned to be wary of some 11 ozs worsteds...
And remember Mr. C. Lee's advice:
"The customer has to roll up his sleeves, put on his walking shoes and walk the beat. Along the way he will have to take some risks, trust his eyes and listen to his heart. An internet search, even a clothing forum, won't cut it. In the worst cases, those are dead-ends."
Cheers
Use your search function to access reams of information on cloth written by very experienced bespeakers (and cloth designers ) who are both knowledgeable and disinterested. Their advice is more valuable than that of an internet merchandiser.
If you had been reading your LL you would have learned to be wary of some 11 ozs worsteds...
And remember Mr. C. Lee's advice:
"The customer has to roll up his sleeves, put on his walking shoes and walk the beat. Along the way he will have to take some risks, trust his eyes and listen to his heart. An internet search, even a clothing forum, won't cut it. In the worst cases, those are dead-ends."
Cheers
Thanks, Alden. wise advice.
Cannot agree more.alden wrote:Their advice is more valuable than that of an internet merchandiser.
Although it seems I did not read enough regarding the lightweight cloth. However, my other tailor seemed to have dealt with a similar weight cloth perfectly fine, but maybe, still a different cloth.
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