I wonder about SR quality

[Tutumulut]

If you have the physique for it, I highly recommend all bespoke tailors everywhere in Italy.

I wonder what kind of physique that might be....

I assumed the kind that needs a diet of Italian cuisine, good wines, regular pizza and ice cream to stay in shape. But maybe it's something else... You've now also made me curious!

[BESPOKE62]

I sometimes find the acceptance of quality issues on SR puzzling and also how much the client is supposed to work with the cutter, seeking to get him to understand his requirements. I think perhaps perspective has been lost. .

I would concur. Why do we accept quality issues? I remember when I walked into the shop of one the preeminent tailors in the United States (I did not know this at the time). He did not know me from Adam; I had read an article about him in the Robb Report, called him up and asked if I could stop by. After talking for about 30 minutes, (and every one of those minutes cost him money) he said to me, let me make you a suit, if you are not completely satisfied with it, you pay me nothing. I was more than satisfied. He was very meticulous; he would not allow anything to leave out of his shop, with his name on it, that he and you were not 100% satisfied with. He is the one who taught me that it is a ¼ of an inch between great and perfection. Things that most customers would never see or ever notice, as long as they owned the suit; he did, and would not allow the suit to leave his shop until he had corrected it. He said that I should never accept shoddy work from him or any tailor. He said all tailor use to be that way, took a since of pride in what they were doing. We had a relationship that lasted until his passing and during this time, every suit he made me, he gave me the same guarantee, if you don’t like it, you pay nothing.

[davidhuh]

If you have the physique for it, I highly recommend all bespoke tailors everywhere in Italy.

I wonder what kind of physique that might be....

That would be the following three kinds of physiques:

Thin and normal weight

Thin with 1 extra pound to 10 extra pounds of weight on the body with the extra weight being any amount from excess fat

Thin with 1 extra pound to 20 extra pounds of weight on the body with the weight (extra weight as much as normal weight) being from curves, muscle or any combination of curves and muscle (with the muscle being bulging, toned or any combination of bulging and toned) with not even a shred of excess fat

Excuse me Sir, are you sure you want to be taken serious?

David

[couch]

I remember when I walked into the shop of one the preeminent tailors in the United States (I did not know this at the time). He did not know me from Adam; I had read an article about him in the Robb Report, called him up and asked if I could stop by.

Would you be willing to share the name? Gasbarri? Trabalza? Centofanti?

[Stobo]

I sometimes find the acceptance of quality issues on SR puzzling and also how much the client is supposed to work with the cutter, seeking to get him to understand his requirements. I think perhaps perspective has been lost. .

I would concur. Why do we accept quality issues? I remember when I walked into the shop of one the preeminent tailors in the United States (I did not know this at the time). He did not know me from Adam; I had read an article about him in the Robb Report, called him up and asked if I could stop by. After talking for about 30 minutes, (and every one of those minutes cost him money) he said to me, let me make you a suit, if you are not completely satisfied with it, you pay me nothing. I was more than satisfied. He was very meticulous; he would not allow anything to leave out of his shop, with his name on it, that he and you were not 100% satisfied with. He is the one who taught me that it is a ¼ of an inch between great and perfection. Things that most customers would never see or ever notice, as long as they owned the suit; he did, and would not allow the suit to leave his shop until he had corrected it. He said that I should never accept shoddy work from him or any tailor. He said all tailor use to be that way, took a since of pride in what they were doing. We had a relationship that lasted until his passing and during this time, every suit he made me, he gave me the same guarantee, if you don’t like it, you pay nothing.

While I've almost never posted, preferring to read what is written by those who know far more than I, I couldn't let this keep going without mentioning the row can also be a lovely place to experience. I've now had multiple experiences with one of the more prominent tailors on the row, but it was the first encounter that has always stuck with me and reminds me of the experience mentioned above. I walked in to the shop just to gather information for my first bespoke suit. I happened to catch the head cutter up front, and not only found him to be personable and lovely, but he also spent the better part of an hour walking me through his process, explaining the differences between his house style and other options, the clothes he liked, etc.
All of this was done over a lovely cup of coffee, and I couldn't be more pleased with either the results of that commission, the commissions that have followed, or the service I've received since, in London or on their trips abroad.
Best,
J

[BESPOKE62]

Would you be willing to share the name? Gasbarri? Trabalza? Centofanti?

Couch,

The tailor was Giacomo Trabalza. He was a wonderful man, I always told him I came to him for his stories, and got a suit to remember it by. Every suit that I have from him, has a wonderful story to go along with it.

Regards

[Scot]

Not to mention, all of the small, independent English bespoke tailors are about half the price (give or take one quarter) of the Savile Row tailors.

I wish I could get back all the money I have wasted trying to get SR quality at half the price

[Scot]

Then perhaps you should spend the extra money to buy bespoke suits and similar garments from a Savile Row tailor.

Such great advice! This is exactly what I did. The point of the post was to suggest that I wish I had done it sooner.

Or, better yet, if you have the three thin physiques that I mentioned in the message above that I posted at 4:35PM Central Time (the time zone this message board is in) on Tues May 28, 2013, buy bespoke suits and similar garments from any bespoke tailor anywhere in Italy and get even better (in many cases better to substantially better) quality than you will ever get again anywhere in England (and for somewhat less to somewhat more money to boot).

In your opinion. I would rather devote my travel and accommodation expenses to a tailor who could clothe me whatever my physique.

[Mark Seitelman]

Not to mention, all of the small, independent English bespoke tailors are about half the price (give or take one quarter) of the Savile Row tailors.

I wish I could get back all the money I have wasted trying to get SR quality at half the price

How true! Well said.

[Frans]

(...) I couldn't let this keep going without mentioning the row can also be a lovely place to experience. I've now had multiple experiences with one of the more prominent tailors on the row, but it was the first encounter that has always stuck with me and reminds me of the experience mentioned above. I walked in to the shop just to gather information for my first bespoke suit. I happened to catch the head cutter up front, and not only found him to be personable and lovely, but he also spent the better part of an hour walking me through his process, explaining the differences between his house style and other options, the clothes he liked, etc. (...)

Interesting to read, thank you for sharing. If I am allowed to ask, was it at C& M?

[Stobo]

It was not at C & M, which I have not yet had the pleasure of visiting.
I should probably add that before settling on the tailor I did, I visited several tailoring houses on the row and had a range of experiences at each visit. In some houses it felt more like strictly a business visit, while others felt far more friendly and engaging.
J

[davidhuh]

Excuse me Sir, are you sure you want to be taken serious?

I am merely going buy what an expert member (and one of the biggest of fashion and style experts overall that I have encountered so far) of Style Forum told me two or three years ago.

However, this expert member of Style Forum was much less descriptive and detailed than I was (in fact, he was actually quite vague).

Dear Audi,

I see. You may allow me to comment a little.

As Scot already mentioned, I would expect a suit that fits from any bespoke tailor, period. If I'm required to have a certain physique as you describe, then something is wrong with the tailor.

There is something I find problematic in this thread, and it starts with the title chosen by the opening poster. There is no such thing as "SR quality". There are many tailors on the Row, some good, some brilliant, some perhaps not always delivering at equal standard. Very much the same applies to Italy.

So, if somebody has a bad experience or a mishap, try to fix it with the tailor who is responsible for the work. A disappointed bespeaker may be emotional and sad, but it is not adding to his credibility if he is questioning or even trashing an entire neighbourhood of craftsmen.

Back to you recommending all bespoke tailors in Italy There are wonderful craftsmen in Italy, of course. I happen to know a few of them (and some from the Row). You may not be aware of it, but Italy is a country where different tailoring schools (or "styles" if you prefer) coexist. The typical tailor in Milan will do something different from the craftsmen in Rome, Naples or Sicily. And of course, there are different styles on the Row.

Regarding the recommendation you received: it is certainly helpful to give some thought to your physique before choosing your tailor. I have done that myself and understood that soft tailoring with little or no padding works very well for me. It is however much more important to find the tailor you feel most comfortable with, and once you have found your luck, stick with him and enjoy the fun.

If you have good first hand experiences to share, please do so, the audience here will love and respect you. But generalisations, positive or negative, are not very helpful to anybody.

Cheers, David

[Tutumulut]

+1, David

(a positive generalisation, I know, but I couldn't help myself agreeing with everything you've written )

[Scot]

Audi, I guess we all have to decide who and what to believe. Recycling garbage is generally good thing to do but if I want to benefit from the expertise available on Style Forum I know where to find it.

[Costi]

Perhaps Style Forum has a "time zone" that is more adequate for some?...