Bespoke Overcoat

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Slewfoot
Posts: 523
Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 8:22 pm
Contact:

Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:22 pm

Thanks! Just seeing this now. Looks very nice. I'd be doing a DB as well but more of a long pea coat style.

Would you say the color is a dark, midnight navy or more of a true blue navy?
bond_and_beyond
Posts: 409
Joined: Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:49 pm
Contact:

Thu Dec 20, 2012 1:26 pm

Slewfoot wrote:Thanks! Just seeing this now. Looks very nice. I'd be doing a DB as well but more of a long pea coat style.

Would you say the color is a dark, midnight navy or more of a true blue navy?
It isn't as dark as midnight blue, more dark navy.

BB
Slewfoot
Posts: 523
Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 8:22 pm
Contact:

Thu Dec 20, 2012 4:23 pm

Got it and thanks!
TheloniusDrunk
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:06 pm
Contact:

Thu Feb 14, 2013 12:19 am

Hey all, I'm very much the neophyte here - how much cloth should be ordered for a DB overcoat for a 6'4" man?

I really like the design of this coat: http://davidetaub.blogspot.co.uk/2011/0 ... -coat.html, is the military style more informal than a standard styled overcoat?
old henry
Posts: 969
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:34 pm
Location: Clayton New York
Contact:

Thu Feb 14, 2013 12:33 am

An Astounding Coat. Who ever made this is from another world. Do you know the cloth ? Im sure its discontinued. I would get 4 meters HEBox 32oz. Its the only real overcoating around. ALL others are fluffed up fakes. ALL. Excluding LL. Cut one way on grain. Sponge.
Last edited by old henry on Thu Feb 14, 2013 2:17 am, edited 2 times in total.
hectorm
Posts: 1667
Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 2:12 pm
Location: Washington DC
Contact:

Thu Feb 14, 2013 1:45 am

Dear TD,
at 6'4", I think you will be able to carry that 10x5 impressibly.
A couple of warnings though:
First, yes, its military origin, those huge lapels, the half belt on the back and the general style of the garment, makes it more informal than, for instance, a SB Chesterfield (which I assume is what you meant by a "standard styled").
Second, since you confess being a neophyte in these matters and if this is your first time that you decide to go all the way with bespoke, I would advise on commissioning a more versatile overcoat that you could wear more often and in a variety of environments. But if you already have other overcoats, this warm coat would be a great addition specially in the 32oz cloth that Frank just recommended.
Berwick
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2011 10:43 am
Contact:

Fri Feb 15, 2013 9:56 am

I am not sure I agree with Hectorm. This is a style of coat I find very versatile - e.g. with cords or jeans in the pub, walking the dog, for work in a less formal atmosphere. I wear my less formal overcoats much more than my formal ones, which only get worn to things like lawyers conferences or funerals. I would wear one like this at every opportunity!
davidhuh
Posts: 2030
Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:47 am
Contact:

Fri Feb 15, 2013 12:36 pm

Dear Theloniusdrunk,,

I tend to agree with Berwick. This Davide Taub military style coat is very versatile.

Regarding cloth, I have recently received a guards coat with Fox Flannel CWF37 S0505/11. I am very pleased with the result.
Length required: 3,5 to 4 m considering your size; but you should also ask your tailor.

cheers, david
Gianfrancesco
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:48 pm
Contact:

Fri Feb 15, 2013 12:56 pm

Hmm,personally I don't like that kind of overcoat, it is a little out of date, too much "napoleonic" and not very versatile (or at least, not for my tastes).
hectorm
Posts: 1667
Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2011 2:12 pm
Location: Washington DC
Contact:

Fri Feb 15, 2013 10:47 pm

Berwick wrote:This is a style of coat I find very versatile
davidhuh wrote:I tend to agree with Berwick. This Davide Taub military style coat is very versatile
I guess that, at the end of the day, what makes a garment versatile is how confident and comfortable you feel wearing it in different environments.
Notwithstanding, I believe that a military DB great warm coat -by definition- can never be "objectively" versatile, but maybe I´m showing my limitations here. I´m sure that many fans and patrons of Gieves & Hawkes -amongst others- would feel totally at ease (no pun intended) wearing this overcoat to work or to the movies.
Berwick
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2011 10:43 am
Contact:

Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:14 pm

I agree - versatility is associated by how comfortable you feel wearing it.I think my favorite items are versatile because I want to wear them and will push the envelope if required.
TheloniusDrunk
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:06 pm
Contact:

Sun Aug 18, 2019 4:25 pm

I wanted to revive this thread to get some opinions on cloth. I think a heavy wool (like the 32 oz HE Box that was suggested) is most likely the classic best. I would like to find a grey or navy herringbone patterned cloth for this coat.

Similarly, and I may be lambasted for this, but I'd prefer to have a synthetic if possible for personal preference. If that's the case, can anyone recommend a high quality, heavyweight synthetic fabric?
old henry
Posts: 969
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:34 pm
Location: Clayton New York
Contact:

Sun Aug 18, 2019 5:03 pm

:😂. I’m seriously sitting here laughing.
TheloniusDrunk
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:06 pm
Contact:

Mon Aug 19, 2019 2:07 am

Glad I could entertain
old henry
Posts: 969
Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:34 pm
Location: Clayton New York
Contact:

Mon Aug 19, 2019 11:51 am

I’m just teasing. HEBox is great and I sent you a pm.
Post Reply
  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 52 guests