Bespoke Overcoat

[Slewfoot]

Thanks! Just seeing this now. Looks very nice. I'd be doing a DB as well but more of a long pea coat style.

Would you say the color is a dark, midnight navy or more of a true blue navy?

[bond_and_beyond]

Thanks! Just seeing this now. Looks very nice. I'd be doing a DB as well but more of a long pea coat style.

Would you say the color is a dark, midnight navy or more of a true blue navy?

It isn't as dark as midnight blue, more dark navy.

BB

[Slewfoot]

Got it and thanks!

[TheloniusDrunk]

Hey all, I'm very much the neophyte here - how much cloth should be ordered for a DB overcoat for a 6'4" man?

I really like the design of this coat: http://davidetaub.blogspot.co.uk/2011/0 ... -coat.html, is the military style more informal than a standard styled overcoat?

[old henry]

An Astounding Coat. Who ever made this is from another world. Do you know the cloth ? Im sure its discontinued. I would get 4 meters HEBox 32oz. Its the only real overcoating around. ALL others are fluffed up fakes. ALL. Excluding LL. Cut one way on grain. Sponge.

[hectorm]

Dear TD,
at 6'4", I think you will be able to carry that 10x5 impressibly.
A couple of warnings though:
First, yes, its military origin, those huge lapels, the half belt on the back and the general style of the garment, makes it more informal than, for instance, a SB Chesterfield (which I assume is what you meant by a "standard styled").
Second, since you confess being a neophyte in these matters and if this is your first time that you decide to go all the way with bespoke, I would advise on commissioning a more versatile overcoat that you could wear more often and in a variety of environments. But if you already have other overcoats, this warm coat would be a great addition specially in the 32oz cloth that Frank just recommended.

[Berwick]

I am not sure I agree with Hectorm. This is a style of coat I find very versatile - e.g. with cords or jeans in the pub, walking the dog, for work in a less formal atmosphere. I wear my less formal overcoats much more than my formal ones, which only get worn to things like lawyers conferences or funerals. I would wear one like this at every opportunity!

[davidhuh]

Dear Theloniusdrunk,,

I tend to agree with Berwick. This Davide Taub military style coat is very versatile.

Regarding cloth, I have recently received a guards coat with Fox Flannel CWF37 S0505/11. I am very pleased with the result.
Length required: 3,5 to 4 m considering your size; but you should also ask your tailor.

cheers, david

[Gianfrancesco]

Hmm,personally I don't like that kind of overcoat, it is a little out of date, too much "napoleonic" and not very versatile (or at least, not for my tastes).

[hectorm]

This is a style of coat I find very versatile

I tend to agree with Berwick. This Davide Taub military style coat is very versatile

I guess that, at the end of the day, what makes a garment versatile is how confident and comfortable you feel wearing it in different environments.
Notwithstanding, I believe that a military DB great warm coat -by definition- can never be "objectively" versatile, but maybe I´m showing my limitations here. I´m sure that many fans and patrons of Gieves & Hawkes -amongst others- would feel totally at ease (no pun intended) wearing this overcoat to work or to the movies.

[Berwick]

I agree - versatility is associated by how comfortable you feel wearing it.I think my favorite items are versatile because I want to wear them and will push the envelope if required.

[TheloniusDrunk]

I wanted to revive this thread to get some opinions on cloth. I think a heavy wool (like the 32 oz HE Box that was suggested) is most likely the classic best. I would like to find a grey or navy herringbone patterned cloth for this coat.

Similarly, and I may be lambasted for this, but I'd prefer to have a synthetic if possible for personal preference. If that's the case, can anyone recommend a high quality, heavyweight synthetic fabric?

[old henry]

:😂. I’m seriously sitting here laughing.

[TheloniusDrunk]

Glad I could entertain

[old henry]

I’m just teasing. HEBox is great and I sent you a pm.