First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?

[R.O. Thornhill]

Am also looking for a blazer fabric - and would appreciate your guidance in trying to track down something quite different (already have a lightweight fresco, and a mid-weight botany navy blazer)

I was in Tom Ford the other day (my wife was looking at the womenswear) and saw a very nice hopsack navy blazer. It was a 2B, SB, with bellied peak lapels, quart-lining and understated gilt buttons. In the end it just wasn't perfect enough to justify the price (in particular I objected to the centre vent) - but I am very keen to find a cloth similar to this one

The cloth in question was a wool-mohair-silk (probably 65-30-5 or so) blend in quite an open basketweave in mid-navy. Probably 12oz or so. There was a little bit of shine to it, but not too much - and I thought it could be fun for informal evening wear.

Does anyone have any ideas for a book that could contain something similar?

R.O.T.

[Kayak81]

I'd still love to see an LLCC hopsack coating cloth in true Navy!

Isn't the Blue Mistral a Navy hopsack?

[davidhuh]

I'd still love to see an LLCC hopsack coating cloth in true Navy!

Isn't the Blue Mistral a Navy hopsack?

Dear Kayak81,

indeed, it is

cheers, david

[rogiercreemers]

If I can piggyback a little on this thread: I have been considering to bespeak a blue odd jacket in a sort of non-worsted fabric. I had been looking at the Fox 11oz flannel, would anyone have any experience with this cloth?

[old henry]

11oz Flannel is a waist of time. 14oz & up.

[Rowly]

Dear Rowly and all others giving advice on this post, It does my heart good to see that , at least on the LL, there are still some folks who understand and appreciate sturdy cloth. Steadfast, Botany, Lesser 13 and 16oz. Dougdale Town Classic.

Thanks,Frank.
I would also throw Pederson & Becker's Universal into the mix.
Have you any opinions on which of the heavy bunch is the most dressy finish?
I am inspired by this pic. of Olivier.

http://www.art.co.uk/products/p15363568 ... osters.htm

I think the Steadfast book might be the job. The cloth is so dry that I wonder should the buttons be polished horn to liven it a bit? Is there much differnce between the finish of Lesser 16oz, and Steadfast? And, how would they compare with say Lesser 13oz and Botany?
thanks.....

[old henry]

I would say Steadfast but of the above are very good.
Get regular horn and drop them in olive oil for a bit.
Nothing should ever be "Livened Up"
Ask Olivier.

[Rowly]

Great advice, Frank. Thanks!...and great tip for the buttons.
Steadfast it is !

[Samuel]

Lovat Mills-- a blue hopsack. Probably Shetland.

Not navy. More like a French blue. Mottled, varied yarns.

#9261.

[Samuel]

A couple of other W. Bill options.

One is a lambswool plain weave/hopsack. A true navy. 13 oz. I forget the cloth number but I can get it.

The other is #30041, a true navy hopsack found in the Lamlana book. 320g. Merino and Angora, with a wee but of cashmere. A tad luxe for some of the hard finish worsted types, but an ideal cloth for the fall-winter blazer.

[add911_11]

I recently made a navy blazer for my girlfriend out of Dugdale 8729 (navy plain blazer cloth) from the Formal Wear book. This is a fantastic cloth. It is a barathea type weave, so it has a bit of surface interest. It's quite a matte finish (a positive quality in my eyes) and is very crease resistent. This may be a good place to start for you. It's also an excellent value compared to Lesser.



Unfortunately the picture doesn't show the cloth very well! It makes up very nicely.

Wow, both the fitting and the lady are gorgeous, very nice.

[dkst]

Thank you for the kind comments! I'm lucky to have a girlfriend that puts up with my obsessive sewing... I will post pictures of my Lesser 16 oz blazer shortly to demonstrate the cloth. The baste is fitted and waiting to be made up.

Of course I'm only a beginner and my work does not come anywhere near some of the beautiful creations that have been shared on the forum recently. It is truly a privilege to be allowed to share my work here. I'm almost ashamed to post it next to some of the painstakingly crafted works of art we've seen lately. My work will never come close to that level, but I will certainly strive to emulate these accomplished craftspeople. I would be satisfied if I became one quarter the tailor they are.

[ykurtz]

Smith Finmeresco. Many of the pros of Minnis Fresco, but smoother and nicer to the touch.

[Pins&Needles]

@dkst: Thanks for the recommendation and contact info. I didn't even look at Dugdale's Formalwear as I thought that would be black tie related.

@Rowly & Rodes: Your blazer definitely makes sense for a summer blazer, but I'm thinking of this one as more a fall/winter (and wearing at nighttime functions) blazer, hence the 13oz weight and navy. Would you still go with dark blue in that case?

@old Henry & Melcombe: Thanks for the recommendation. I'm definitely going to do more thinking about buttons once I've nailed down the fabric.

@Pins & Needles: My tailor actually has Botany, so I'll be taking a look at that this weekend. Do you know the number for the navy hopsack?

@Samuel: I read the thread you mentioned as I was searching the forum. That's where I got the idea to check out Smith Botany and Steadfast. It's confusing that even with a supposedly more casual fabric, there's suiting and jacketing versions. What did you end up picking?

There are a handful of hopsacks in the Botany range. They are 100% Merino wool so they handle beautifully. The one I normally recommend is 3912 12/13oz as it is the richest blue. When a client has this made as a suit I usually suggest horn buttons so the jacket can be worn as a blazer.

I hope this helps

Karl Matthews