reasonably priced soft tailored suit

[jrtjon]

I know that my question has probably been asked on this forum countless times, but I never seem to find the right post!
Where can I find a someone who will make up a "soft tailored suit" in the Anderson and Sheppard style? I love the look but my problem is that I really can't bring myself to justify Savile Row prices (nor afford it!). I used George in Cleveland St a couple of times but I was never really satisfied and found his suits very bulky and the canvas was fused. Of course he has gone now & his style was certainly not "soft"! The real bonus was he was cheap, perhaps too cheap - you get what you pay for etc!. I also used Kilgour when they did their off Row suits - they were great but they don't do that anymore and again I find their style like wearing a suit of armour!!
There must be someone out there who can offer this without charging West End prices. What I'd really like is to find a new up and coming tailor or one who has semi retired but needs the work!! I know that in parts of Italy you can stuble across a small tailor - can that happen in the UK? Actually if anyone knows a small tailor in Italy or Sth of France that fits my requirements I am willing to travel!?
Obviously a London based tailor would be preferable however if this price were right I'm willing to travel!
Thanks

[Concordia]

Doesn't Tom Mahon have a line of foreign-sewn suits? That could solve all your problems. Or Steed MTM --which I haven't seen, but Ed is a good source.

Of course, if you divert the south of France travel budget toward A&S, that might work, too.

[davidhuh]

Dear Jrtjon,

"If you pay peanuts, you get monkeys"...

While I respect the fact that not everybody has non limited funds to invest in a wardrobe, it is probably not very reasonable to request a Bentley at Volkswagen prices. If you really want soft tailoring at a lower price, consider MTM offered by Steed or Mahon as mentioned. Probably very good value for money and without complication.

If you are very brave and trust your negotiation skills, you could go to Napoli and try a local tailor. However, considering the travel cost, the communication risks and other issues, you would be more safe with former A & S tailors working on and off Row (Hitchcock, Matthews, Mahon, Steed).

But managing personal expectations on a limited budget might be helpful.

Good luck, David

PS: forgot to add the LL Sartoria! Sicily holiday included

[MRJ]

Kent, Haste and Lachter are also very reasonable, despite John Kent having the Royal warrant to The Duke of Edinburgh. Terry Haste has worked with many big Savile Row names incl Anderson & Shepherd. Prices are comparable to Tom Mahon and Steed but they have permanent presence in London. However prices, whilst lower than Savile Row are still in the £000s. Another alternative could be the city tailors Graham Browne

[marburyvmadison]

Don't think Browne is that good. They seem to cut from a house block (not that that in itself is a problem if the coats are well fitted) and from what I've been seeing, the fit is terrible.

[simonc]

Don't think Browne is that good. They seem to cut from a house block (not that that in itself is a problem if the coats are well fitted) and from what I've been seeing, the fit is terrible.

They made a couple of suits for me and I'd not describe the fit as terrible. They don't take as many measurements as other tailors I've used, but the overall product was more than acceptable for the price. I'm not sure I'd recommend them as soft tailors though, I believe at least one of them has a background as a military tailor and my suits are fairly strongly cut and solidly constructed.

[Simon A]

You might want to investigate some of the better tailors in Madrid. The airfare to Spain is cheaper than the cab ride to the airport, the food is outstanding, you will find a range of tailoring styles from soft to structured, and the prices are very reasonable; with the poor economy, they should be quite happy to receive your business. Some of the tailors have English-speaking staff. A few tour to London several times a year. If you search the LL Archives, a helpful local person has listed all the significant Madrid tailors and rough prices. http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... rid#p52125

[marburyvmadison]

Don't think Browne is that good. They seem to cut from a house block (not that that in itself is a problem if the coats are well fitted) and from what I've been seeing, the fit is terrible.

They made a couple of suits for me and I'd not describe the fit as terrible. They don't take as many measurements as other tailors I've used, but the overall product was more than acceptable for the price. I'm not sure I'd recommend them as soft tailors though, I believe at least one of them has a background as a military tailor and my suits are fairly strongly cut and solidly constructed.

To qualify my point -- I spoke to a few people who had coats cut at G. Browne, and from what I've heard, the extent to which one can achieve a well-cut coat depends in large part on client's pointers. That is, they don't offer much direction (and are not pro-active) in addressing problems in the suit unless the issues are underscored. Would you agree with that?

*Though the cut of your suits seem to be an outlier. I recall seeing you in a DB in particular and it does fit you pretty well.

[Gilles Deleuze]

Don't think Browne is that good. They seem to cut from a house block (not that that in itself is a problem if the coats are well fitted) and from what I've been seeing, the fit is terrible.

They made a couple of suits for me and I'd not describe the fit as terrible. They don't take as many measurements as other tailors I've used, but the overall product was more than acceptable for the price. I'm not sure I'd recommend them as soft tailors though, I believe at least one of them has a background as a military tailor and my suits are fairly strongly cut and solidly constructed.

To qualify my point -- I spoke to a few people who had coats cut at G. Browne, and from what I've heard, the extent to which one can achieve a well-cut coat depends in large part on client's pointers. That is, they don't offer much direction (and are not pro-active) in addressing problems in the suit unless the issues are underscored. Would you agree with that?

*Though the cut of your suits seem to be an outlier. I recall seeing you in a DB in particular and it does fit you pretty well.

Hi, I have several suits from GB and my new (SR) tailor has actually said they won't be changing all that much for my new suit with them, fit-wise. Style-wise, it's another matter, naturally.

And, frankly, GB did just fine when I simply asked them to make me a relatively structured suit with a little nip in the waist.

I might submit that some of the pictures you may have seen on the internet (and I've seen a few myself) come from obsessive-compulsive I-gent types who tried to micro-manage too many details on their suits and were shocked when the end result was a bit muddled.

I think GB does solid work and the value is more than fine for the money.

[Slewfoot]

I would, of course, vote for Steed as well. Even their bespoke prices are not as high as most Savile Row tailors. The Cumbria overhead saves everyone money I would imagine! It seems worth speaking with them. For what it's worth, they are running a special sale on London Lounge cloths through the end of the year. If you have any specific questions on my experiences feel free to send me a private message.

[marburyvmadison]

Hi, I have several suits from GB and my new (SR) tailor has actually said they won't be changing all that much for my new suit with them, fit-wise. Style-wise, it's another matter, naturally.

And, frankly, GB did just fine when I simply asked them to make me a relatively structured suit with a little nip in the waist.

I might submit that some of the pictures you may have seen on the internet (and I've seen a few myself) come from obsessive-compulsive I-gent types who tried to micro-manage too many details on their suits and were shocked when the end result was a bit muddled.

I think GB does solid work and the value is more than fine for the money.

That helps to clarify a little about what I've heard. But take a look at this. Picked this up a couple of days ago when there were critiques about the fit of a coat.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/250290/grah ... st_4691770

[marburyvmadison]

I would, of course, vote for Steed as well. Even their bespoke prices are not as high as most Savile Row tailors. The Cumbria overhead saves everyone money I would imagine! It seems worth speaking with them. For what it's worth, they are running a special sale on London Lounge cloths through the end of the year. If you have any specific questions on my experiences feel free to send me a private message.

Steed would cut a very nice coat. Have had no experience with them (yet), but Bill's suits look immaculate. Am presently contemplating if I should add just one more suit to my wardrobe this year ...

[NJS]

Don't think Browne is that good. They seem to cut from a house block (not that that in itself is a problem if the coats are well fitted) and from what I've been seeing, the fit is terrible.

They made a couple of suits for me and I'd not describe the fit as terrible. They don't take as many measurements as other tailors I've used, but the overall product was more than acceptable for the price. I'm not sure I'd recommend them as soft tailors though, I believe at least one of them has a background as a military tailor and my suits are fairly strongly cut and solidly constructed.

That's really quite funny - as the original Scholte, soft-cut lounge suit derived directly from Frederick Scholte's experience in cutting military garments at Johns & Pegg!
NJS

[cathach]

I know that my question has probably been asked on this forum countless times, but I never seem to find the right post!
Where can I find a someone who will make up a "soft tailored suit" in the Anderson and Sheppard style? I love the look but my problem is that I really can't bring myself to justify Savile Row prices (nor afford it!). I used George in Cleveland St a couple of times but I was never really satisfied and found his suits very bulky and the canvas was fused. Of course he has gone now & his style was certainly not "soft"! The real bonus was he was cheap, perhaps too cheap - you get what you pay for etc!. I also used Kilgour when they did their off Row suits - they were great but they don't do that anymore and again I find their style like wearing a suit of armour!!

Well we need to know where you're based first, are you in the UK?

[bond_and_beyond]

Hi, I have several suits from GB and my new (SR) tailor has actually said they won't be changing all that much for my new suit with them, fit-wise. Style-wise, it's another matter, naturally.

And, frankly, GB did just fine when I simply asked them to make me a relatively structured suit with a little nip in the waist.

I might submit that some of the pictures you may have seen on the internet (and I've seen a few myself) come from obsessive-compulsive I-gent types who tried to micro-manage too many details on their suits and were shocked when the end result was a bit muddled.

I think GB does solid work and the value is more than fine for the money.

That helps to clarify a little about what I've heard. But take a look at this. Picked this up a couple of days ago when there were critiques about the fit of a coat.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/250290/grah ... st_4691770

One cannot base once judgement of a tailor on one (or a few) online pics (there are similar threads to the one you quote on Huntsman for example, but no one would argue that they do not make a good coat). I personally have had GB make me four suits and two overcoats and I am very happy. A suit starts below GBP 1000 (including VAT) and thus allows the inexperienced bespoke customer to try and fail abit, as compared to paying GBP 3000 ++ for his first suit.

For better pics and a thorough review on the GB experience I refer you the Permanent Style blog by Simon Crompton (start with this one http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2009/06 ... -suit.html). As he has repeatedly noted on his blog for years, there is no better value in London for bespoke than GB. The make is a way off SR, but the fit should be more or less equal.

BB