Moonbeam Double Breasted

[Pins&Needles]

Hi all

Here is a recent commission for one of my clients. He is a huge fan of the moonbeam range from Harrison's and was very excited when I suggested he have it made up as a Double Breasted. I really enjoyed working on the coat and thought it would be nice to share some images of the finished article. The links to the images are below.

http://bit.ly/RYAwNK
http://bit.ly/RKS4Qo
http://bit.ly/R78C4k
http://bit.ly/QvcMRY
http://bit.ly/TwYOxm
http://bit.ly/PEXAog
http://bit.ly/TzmukW

I hope you enjoy it as much as I did making it.

Thanks

Karl Matthews

[davidhuh]

Mr Matthews, congratulations! This is a piece to be proud of.

Best regards, David

[dkst]

Simply beautiful, thank you for sharing this. Look forward to seeing more of your work!

[old henry]

Remarkable craft.

[alden]

Karl,

Superb!

Cheers

[hectorm]

Dear Karl,
A splendid jacket. Congratulations! So far (judging by the swatches) I have not considered Harrison´s Moonbeam as a "real" tweed, but seeing your final results makes me wonder.
I have, if I may, two questions for you:
i) Is the jacket in picture 4 (QvcMRY) at its finished length? Although pictures are deceiving - as is when you hang a coat on dummy- it seems to me that there are like 8 or more inches from the end of the sleeves to the bottom of the jacket. Very long "skirt" by any measure.
ii) In your opinion, does the addition of angora to the mix require a special consideration at the time of dry cleaning the jacket? Recently I have been advised by a reputable tailor in the US against the choice of a mohair cloth on that basis.

[Gilles Deleuze]

hectorm,

To the first of your points: I have a jacket in the Moonbeam cloth, and while I like it very much I don't think anyone would take it for a "real" tweed. It's a very urbane cloth with tweed-like patterning, but its softness makes me fear for its durability far, far more than I would for the LL shetland I'm currently having made.

Hope that helps.

[DFR]

Whilst the workmanship is fine, each to his own.

[Pins&Needles]

Dear Karl,
A splendid jacket. Congratulations! So far (judging by the swatches) I have not considered Harrison´s Moonbeam as a "real" tweed, but seeing your final results makes me wonder.
I have, if I may, two questions for you:
i) Is the jacket in picture 4 (QvcMRY) at its finished length? Although pictures are deceiving - as is when you hang a coat on dummy- it seems to me that there are like 8 or more inches from the end of the sleeves to the bottom of the jacket. Very long "skirt" by any measure.
ii) In your opinion, does the addition of angora to the mix require a special consideration at the time of dry cleaning the jacket? Recently I have been advised by a reputable tailor in the US against the choice of a mohair cloth on that basis.

Dear hectorm

Thank you for your kind words. It was real pleasure to make.

I can appreciate your concern regarding the length of the jacket as It is pictured on a mannequin. I know rules state that the jacket should be of a certain length or to the knuckle of the thumb but I believe that proportioning the garment to the clients figure and height works best. In this case the customer felt comfortable with a length he was used too so I worked with him to create a garment both he and I were happy with. I'm not the biggest fan of rules, I rely on my eye and trust my instinct. I have greatly influenced the style of the jacket but my belief is that the customer has to be truly comfortable for a garment to come to life.

The Moonbeam is a lambs wool and Angora mix. It is a more delicate cloth leaning towards late summer early autumn so don't go thinking you can treat this like a tweed as it is a completely different animal and has to be worn differently. It's is beautifully soft and after a wear or two settles into the body wonderfully.

When considering dry cleaning any garment you really need to decide if its necessary to have it dry cleaned in the first place as any good tailor will always suggest a sponge and press first. Dry cleaning just strips material of its natural oils and can reduce its lustre. I would always recommend dry cleaning maybe once a year. Don't get me wrong, if you upset a lady friend and you find yourself wearing her Bloody Mary then dry cleaning it is

Specific materials such as Mohair, Fresco or any high twist cloth tend to be quite dry so you need to be more vigilant, even when pressing as I have known instances with Mohair where the front crease in a pair of trousers has completely split due to it drying out and cracking open.

Many thanks

Karl Matthews

[hectorm]

Thank you very much Karl. I really appreciate that you took the time to answer my questions in detail.
Not only did you answer what I asked in writing but you also read my mind and responded to other doubts I was entertaining regarding the Moonbean
It´s a real pleasure to have you as a fellow LL member.
Regards

[alden]

It´s a real pleasure to have you as a fellow LL member.

I second that motion.

And it is also a real pleasure to see Karl Matthews join the other exceptional craftsmen among the LL Certified Artisans.

Look forward to seeing more work and reading more insights into the world of true masculine style from Mr. Matthews of London.

Cheers