7 fold ties

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

David Hober
Posts: 65
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:30 pm
Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
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Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:09 pm

Wasser50,

Your questions are good ones and the information in this thread is very helpful.

What you as a man who wears ties likes is clearly what is best - you know the old saying: Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

In terms of tie construction the single most important factor is how slowly you make a tie and how much care you put into small details.

So you could easily have a 3-fold tie which is made with a much higher level of skill than a 6 or 7-fold tie.

Using one piece of silk for a 3-fold or 7-fold or any fold tie is possible but does not serve a practical purpose and will typically increase the cost of a tie.

Perfectly rolled edges (if selected when a tie is made) will normally raise the cost of a tie (or pocket square) - are rolled edges better in general or perfectly rolled edges better than rough edges?

Again beauty is in the eye of the beholder. These examples are to show that it is hard to say what is best.

In Italy there are many talented tie makers (more often found in small shops) who use interlining or partial interlining in what they call 7-fold ties. I think that there is a lot of merit in what they are doing and they are not trying to trick anyone with gimmicks. Wool interlining is very good for a tie.

There may also be some miscommunication - something like Panama hats that are not from Panama.

Personally I think that a nice heavy 350 warp silk (350 warp threads per inch) can be made into a beautiful unlined 7-fold. I worry about grenadines made into unlined seven-fold neckties but we have made them. The reason that I worry is that grenadine silk is a loose weave and over time without interlining may not hold up.

Talbott makes very nice ready made unlined 7-folds and I am sure that a number of Italian makers can make you whatever you like. Of course the food and experience of traveling in Italy is a bonus.

Michael,
You make an interesting point about not feeling comfortable buying over the internet. You are probably very much in the majority with this feeling.

Also there is something fun about buying in person when you have time and good tie makers near you. And if you are ordering your ties in Italy or France there is always the food and overall atmosphere which adds to the experience.

However, if you know ties very well and most men who wear them daily for years do know ties you can easily buy ties from someone like us. Just like in a tailors shop you have a discussion and look at swatches to feel texture and weight and look at colors and designs.

I remember when you contacted me a number of years ago we spoke on the phone about the process. It really is not as hard to get a pattern and weight/knot/construction correct as you may think. Once you have a pattern on file (just like when you buy suits) it is easy to order in the future.

Of course you do need patience while you wait for swatches etc. And on occasion you may need to order a couple of times to get your length,width, shape, construction etc. perfect. But you will come out ahead as prices will tend to be lower on the internet. One day when I am visiting Paris we will have to have coffee and talk more - or are you in Italy now? I think you mentioned at one time that you were involved in olives.

Concordia,

Thank you for your kind words. I thought of you a couple of weeks ago when I found two sailing silk designs that were in our silk room that I had forgotten about.

Couch,

Amazingly Samantha is 6 and a half now.

And yes she is not making 7-fold ties yet but she is making paper patterns for Barbie dresses which she then cuts out of left over silk and sews. She also enjoys painting and no doubt will take up marbling in the future. I still have your notes from about 7 or 8 years ago. We have the space for dyeing and printing but I want to use natural dyes at least as an experiment so maybe next year we will have the time to grow the dye plants. I have a lot of patience - which is good.

Dr T,

I still remember your post with the photos of your visit to Italy from a few years back.

I still can't travel much because the kids are small so I feel like I am going on an adventure when I hear travel stories - thank you.
Last edited by David Hober on Sun Oct 14, 2012 6:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
alden
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Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
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Sun Oct 14, 2012 6:23 am

David

I was thinking more about RTW ties purchased over the net. I would be very comfortable with the custom tie making process you have developped. It seems to work very well since I hear only praise from your customers.

I expect to need a new tie in the year 2076 and when the big day comes, you will get a call. As for now I have to wear out a few warehouses of Charvets et al.

Cheers

Michael
David Hober
Posts: 65
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:30 pm
Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Contact:

Sun Oct 14, 2012 6:37 am

Michael,

Actually just after I typed my post it occurred to me that you probably meant ready made ties.

Samantha will be ready to help you in 2076 and I will leave a note for her to expect your call.

I am still curious are you involved with olives?
alden
Posts: 8209
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
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Sun Oct 14, 2012 4:49 pm

David

Yes. Harvesting olives this week. A pretty decent crop given near drought conditions this Summer and Fall (so far.) Olives have less water, contain more oil and impressive concentration. So it should make a pretty good oil.

Cheers
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