Help me with my bespoke selection

[ghostmonk]

Hello all,

I'm a long-time lurker who is approaching a bespoke problem. I'm reasonably new to the bespoke process having really only experienced it with shoes. I've ordered two pair of bespoke shoes from Mr. Januszkiewicz, who is currently being discussed in another thread and I've also ordered MTO shoes through Carmina.

I'm a fairly large American living in London. I'm 6'5"/197 cm and weigh about 250lbs/114 kilos/18 stone. OTR clothing has never been particularly well fitting for me and I've long since yearned to go bespoke. I work in a very casual technical business and rarely have the need to wear a suit and don't really own one. As a technical person the expectation in level of dress is always lower even in customer meetings. Despite this I try to dress better than my co-workers (it's not particularly hard...).

Bizarrely I find myself needing to wear my dinner jacket (which I do own) more than I would need a suit. I now find myself getting married in a year's time and am mulling a bespoke dinner jacket/suit that I could wear to the wedding as well as to the various formal things for which I end up needing a dinner jacket.

I've done my research but I still cannot decide on how I should do this and with whom I should entrust the fruits of my wallet. Cost is very much a factor so I need something I can wrap my head around but I want to be proud of what I buy and get my money's worth. I could probably swing in the neighborhood of £2000 but I would imagine I can talk myself into more (that's usually the way it goes).

My question gentlemen is this: whom would you suggest to me for this? I've thought about all the various names that get discussed. I've also thought about WW Chan, who will be at the Armoury's next trunk show at the end of October.

Advice is greatly appreciated.

[Berwick]

Just a quick first question. Will the wedding be in the USA or the UK? I ask this because dinner jackets for weddings are popular in the USA, but rare in the UK where people tend to go for a lounge suit or Morning dress.

[old henry]

Edwin DuBoise will make what you want and need and stand by it. A man of your build needs a tailor to understand the pattern adaptation and fit. I would never trust "The Row"
You should take this advice. And do not cheap out on cloth. Made in England only.

[stephenm]

Why would you say don't trust the Row? I'm a touch taller and maybe ten pounds lighter than the original poster, and I have some very nicely made suits from the Row, so they can cut for and fit the above average size client well, in my experience.

[Slewfoot]

Edwin DuBoise will make what you want and need and stand by it. A man of your build needs a tailor to understand the pattern adaptation and fit. I would never trust "The Row"
You should take this advice. And do not cheap out on cloth. Made in England only.

A big +1 for Edwin DeBoise of Steed. A great craftsman and a wonderful gentleman.

I'm jealous that living in London you're so close to him! Then again, my wallet is happy I'm not! :^)

[cathach]

I'm a fairly large American living in London.

Truly, you are spoiled for choice, and anyone in the trade that is not based there will go there. Have a look at the thread on bespoke shirts, to set a good foundation for your wardrobe. You'll have to invest time visiting and talking to tailors to see examples of their work and to see who you might gel with best. Make sure to ask for the handwork you want and to see examples of: hand-stitched buttonholes etc.

[ghostmonk]

Thank you for all the replies. The wedding will actually be in Naples, Italy. While I live in London my plan is to eventually go back to the States. I like the idea of having a dinner suit in the closet to bring out occasionally.

I am very well aware of my being spoiled for choice. Indeed from a base in London the whole of Europe is within your grasp.

I'll do some research on Mr. DeBoise. The limited information that I've collected thus far is very encouraging.

I've no doubt that I'll need a suit at some point and would love to ensure that it fits me and I can get something that I'll be proud to wear.

[Scot]

I think there is an interesting debate to be had about the effects of soft versus structured tailoring for the larger man. I have never been a fan of excessive drape - to my eye it can make a thin man look as though he lost several pounds after the suit was made. I am not at all sure how it would look on a larger man, who would perhaps benefit from as much shape in the coat as possible. Any good tailor will do his best to hide the truth

Now stand by for a lecture from the gym squad.

[Concordia]

If GBP 2000 is a hard limit (including VAT), then much of Savile Row will be off limits, especially for DJs, which cost a bit more than a standard lounge suit even without the 3-piece SB option.

There are some MTM programs or non-London bespoke programs that might be worth a look. John McCabe at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is an excellent cutter, for example, and you can get a bespoke suit made in India under his supervision. Haven't tried it, or used him since he left Kilgour, but it's worth a look. [Kilgour had a similar program in a Chinese workshop and the results were very good.] I think Tom Mahon uses the same group of workmen in India if you want a very different style-- might be worth a look if you would like a softer DB cut.

WW Chan is a very good option if you know how to ask for what you want and can do a few fittings. I just came from HK last week with a new workhorse summer suit and a DJ from them-- the work and cut are not SR, but nevertheless have a lot of virtues for much less money than London-made. Average with very good English cloth was a shade less than $2,000/suit. If you stick to base-level Harrisons, figure $1,500 plus whatever local tax and duty you'll get dinged with. So that would be about half your GBP budget.

[ghostmonk]

I'm actually an avid gym-goer and at as large as I am now I used to be quite a bit larger. At one point I lost approximately 1/3d of my body weight. I've slipped a bit since that time but I'm working to get a little closer to my peak.

The thing I'm confused about is that it appears that Mr. DeBoise is at Steed Bespoke but I'm being warned away from Savile Row. Is Steed Bespoke not on Savile Row or am I looking at the wrong Edwin DeBoise?

[Slewfoot]

Edwin's website is: http://www.steed.co.uk/en/

They are technically based in Cumbria, but share a space on Savile Row for occasional fittings I believe. Keeps their overhead and therefore costs down.

[Scot]

I'm actually an avid gym-goer and at as large as I am now I used to be quite a bit larger. At one point I lost approximately 1/3d of my body weight. I've slipped a bit since that time but I'm working to get a little closer to my peak.

The thing I'm confused about is that it appears that Mr. DeBoise is at Steed Bespoke but I'm being warned away from Savile Row. Is Steed Bespoke not on Savile Row or am I looking at the wrong Edwin DeBoise?

There is no good reason for anyone to warn you away from Savile Row, pay no attention. There are some fantastic firms on "the Row", with exceptionally talented cutters and quality workmanship. People complain about the service but I have never had a problem. The advice is always the same - have a wander around, call in to a few tailors, ask them what they can do for you and see if there is somewhere that you feel at home. It's fun.

[stephenm]

I agree with Scot ... I'm very happy with my suits from the Row.

[Frog in Suit]

There is no good reason for anyone to warn you away from Savile Row, pay no attention. There are some fantastic firms on "the Row", with exceptionally talented cutters and quality workmanship. People complain about the service but I have never had a problem. The advice is always the same - have a wander around, call in to a few tailors, ask them what they can do for you and see if there is somewhere that you feel at home. It's fun.

I agree with Scot ... I'm very happy with my suits from the Row.

I agree with both.
You need to do your research (price, style) by phone/internet (but do not blindly follow the current i-gent consensus/buzz/trend which is most likely off because driven by subtle or unsubtle marketing or, even worse, fads), then approach a short list of firms in person. Meet the cutters and find out if you are comfortable with them. Make it clear that you are looking for a long term relationship and will be a repeat customer (within your means; we are not all plutocrats).
Frog in Suit

[Rowly]

You need to do your research (price, style) by phone/internet (but do not blindly follow the current i-gent consensus/buzz/trend which is most likely off because driven by subtle or unsubtle marketing or, even worse, fads), then approach a short list of firms in person. Meet the cutters and find out if you are comfortable with them. Make it clear that you are looking for a long term relationship and will be a repeat customer (within your means; we are not all plutocrats).
Frog in SuitFrog in Suit

Good advice! I would also suggest asking to see work they have recently completed. Their willingness or reticence will influence you. You will know when you are in the right company.
Let them know how important it is to you that all fittings are done by the same person and that you will be flexible with your appointments to facilitate this. We are not all plutocrats but we are budding suit-o-crats, which can be a lot of fun, as Scot says. Enjoy!