A hidden talent in Florence...

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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gazman70k
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 9:15 am
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Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:19 am

During a fitting in Tokyo with Fukaya-san of il micio many moons ago, I couldn't help but admire a solaro suit that he was wearing.

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While it was distinctively Florentine, the cut was not immediately familiar so I enquired whether the suit was made by Liverano & Liverano. Fukaya-san said that it was made for him by a friend who had previously apprenticed at another Florentine tailoring house but has since started up his own atelier.

I was eventually introduced to this hidden Florentine talent, who worked out of a small one bedroom apartment, and decided to commission a jacket. He measured me and asked me to return the next day for a basted fitting. The forward fitting below, was done the following day and he even managed to squeeze in a third fitting the day after.

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Vintage navy hopsack half lined summer jacket, 3 roll 2, 3 patch pockets

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Height of armholes

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Dartless front panel

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Handwork on shoulder

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The finish product is impressive with the hidden Florentine talent having a preferrence for a slimmer fitting sleeve, something I have since asked him to rectify for subsequent commissions. The maticulous hand work is breath taking, even more so given that the entire jacket is made by one pair of hands. The shoulders are natural with no padding. The lapels have that wonderful 3-dimensional roll.

My other works in progress include:

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A charcoal sharksin suit.

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Holland and Sherry Gamekeeper Tweed.

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Holland and Sherry something or rather, summer weight suit.

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A better representation of the colour and subtle patterns.

Looking forward to picking these up soon since its been about 18 months since these orders were placed. Since then he has built up a good following of customers and recently rented a three bedroom apartment that serves as this atelier. Always good to see hardwork pay off...
uppercase
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Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:48 am

Wonderful. Beautiful work.
Please also post photos when they are finished with you wearing them.
Concordia
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Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:38 pm

Interesting. As with several off-the-beaten-path tailors in Italy, I find that the lapels are a little too high and prominent. But he's obviously got a nice feel for making jackets fit comfortably, and with an elegant silhouette.
Rowly
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Sun Jul 29, 2012 8:09 am

Well done! I would prefer the notches a bit lower( personal taste). The jacket will look even better after a bit of wearing when the canvas has had a chance to take your shape, especially with a close fit. The Keeper's tweed is a fantastic pattern. Thanks for posting.
Scot
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Sun Jul 29, 2012 5:57 pm

Well it's obviously a matter of personal taste but, to me, the finished coat looks too small.
Macallan1926
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Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:04 pm

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Holland and Sherry Gamekeeper Tweed.
Looks very similar to this fabric made by robert noble:

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I wonder if they wove it for h&s, the only difference I see is a lighter foreground, but that could just be due to the lighting in the photo
davidhuh
Posts: 2030
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Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:39 pm

Dear Gazman7ok,

very nice work, elegant and well balanced :D .

I agree with your intentions regarding the sleeves and with others regarding the high notch. I would suggest a very subtle change here, taking it perhaps 1,5cm down with the next commission. This will also result in reduced lapel width.

cheers, david
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