How I worked with a craftsman (part 2)

[Alias]

This is how I got my second suit from Mr. Min, the pictures of which I had posted in the Photojournal.

I was looking for something to wear in the awful Seoul summer heat. Seoul summers are horrible because of the extremely high humidity. Sweat doesn't evaporate off your skin so much as it collects there, eventually soaking into whatever you're wearing. You could be standing naked outside and still be sweating buckets.

So I tried my best. I picked up some fabric off of eBay, from Howard Cantor (how6955.) I got four meters of 70% wool 30% kid mohair, from a mill called Keith & Henderson. I wasn't familiar with the mill but the fabric's price was right and four meters was exactly what I needed for a two piece suit with extra trousers (benefit of being small: low cost of materials.) The fabric ended up looking nicer in person. It's a very open plain-weave, and the mohair gives the fabric enough rigidity to hold its shape despite its low weight (260 g/m.)

I took the fabric to Mr. Min. We discussed the cut of the trousers, a problem area in the past. He said he would draw up a new pattern for me. The jacket didn't need any tweaking at all.

The fittings went by fast, with minimal corrections necessary. We had pretty much got the fit right the first time (which involved recutting the jacket once and agonizing over the trousers maybe five times) so things were a breeze. Mr. Min took care to pin some problem areas. He really concentrates on things at the back of the trousers and jacket. I was surprised at how good my rear looked in my trousers, haha. (I also exercise regularly so that helps too.)

Jacket details: Very light canvas, finer than what he usually uses, light cream in color. Very thin lining so circulation isn't a problem. This jacket is FLUID. The shoulder wadding is very light and consists of cotton filling with a horsehair piece for support, sandwiched between gauze. VERY light. The gauze is thin enough to hide under the suiting fabric (normally you'd be able to see the demarcation of where the shoulder pad ends even through the suiting fabric, but not with these) and thin enough to bend when I put my arms over my head (normally the pads would maintain rigidity and lift the entire shoulder area up into the air, along with the collar and the rest of the jacket.) It's a very nice jacket.

I guess the old British high two-button was a source of inspiration. I do remember reading Dressing the Man and seeing the Duke of Windsor in his younger days dressed in this really fitted, plaid suit with high buttons and lapel gorges. I wanted a suit cut like that.

I took the rest of my cues from the advice given here in the LL. I'm short, so the lapel gorges go up, along with jacket length, button height and breast pocket height, and the shoulders need a bit of definition. I'm also slim, so the shoulders ended right where they should and don't protrude excessively outwards. The lapels were done a bit thinner this time around; it was Mr. Min's idea and I think it works great. Even though they're thin they still have a belly. My DB won't have thin lapels, though (of course not!) Waist surpression is gentle and not pinched.

Trouser details: I get side tabs because I hate wearing belts. I also get my trousers cut to ride on my hipbones because I hate having them slide downwards. My legs are longish in proportion to the rest of my body so maintaining proportion isn't much of a problem. We cut the trousers a bit fuller to mitigate the bunching above my ankles (due to protruding calves.) Mr. Alden pointed out that there was a bit of tugging so I'm going to talk to Mr. Min to see if we can't correct that.

If it wasn't for the lessons given here in the LL my suit would have been yet another ho-hum piece of clothing. If you have a good tailor to work with there's no reason why anything he makes you should look like something bought off the rack. The proportions should work, the fit should be right, and the effect understated. That last bit is important: I remember the first time I wore this suit in public. A friend complimented me on my looks, but she couldn't point out a specific detail. I think understated elegance is something to be admired and sought after. I could be ordering bespoke blood-red sportcoats to wear to parties but I won't. Bespoke doesn't have to announce itself with bells and sirens. If people pay more attention to the clothes than to the man inside, that's a failure.

Well, hope my insight and experiences help people looking out to enter bespoke! The LL is really a tremendous resource and I absolutely encourage everyone to listen and learn. It won't guide you wrong.

[T4phage]

Dear Alias,

A wonderful report on the correct way to commission a suit and how to work with your artisan. First one has to know one's own personality and body. Then comes knowledge on the correct way to disguise one's physical limitations and accentuate the positives... all within the context of 'subtle elegance'. That is then followed by an establishment of perfect communication and collaboration between you and your artisan. If these steps are followed, you end up with a work of art as you did.

To quote you:

"Bespoke doesn't have to announce itself with bells and sirens. If people pay more attention to the clothes than to the man inside, that's a failure.

Bravo!

[alden]

Alias,

I am very glad to see what progress you have made in your work in such a short period of time. The improvement from the first suit to the second is remarkable. Many are impatient to see the third, including yours truly.

Your suit is in the same class with the very best examples present in the LL photo journal. That means it ranks in the same class as the works of some very experienced bespoke dressers. That is quite an achievement for only your second suit.

Your gracious recognition of the guidance you found in the londonlounge is reassuring for those who contribute to the success of this bespoke learning center. The LL has helped you become an active participant in the sartorial process and not a passive one. You are designer and architect of your work. Teamed with an honest and competent craftsman, all is within your reach. It’s a satisfying feeling when things work well and a bitter disappointment when they do not. You have sidestepped the normal series of disappointments and progressed quickly into the satisfaction stage. In doing so, you have benchmarked the value LL can provide and that is gratifying.

Keep us informed of the next projects.

Bravo Alias!

Good work.

[bry2000]

Congratulations of your suit. Your post is inspirational. Unfortunately, I have not had your experiences to date. I find that most tailors will listen to what you are after and then deliver what they want in the end. Perhaps, I need to be more clear in my communication (and I am improving), but I think most tailors gravitate towards their preferred style, no matter how much they say they are flexible and want the client's input. I am neither a clothing designer nor a tailor so I cannot dictate to a tailor what the backneck (whatever that is) measurement should be, for example. If solely left to me, the result would be some horridly unbalanced jacket. What I am looking for is a tailor who can take my desired goal and then design and cut a pattern that achieves my goal in light of my physical stature. I am not simply referring to stylistic choices such as SB or DB, 2 or 3 button, choice of vents, etc. For example, I have broad shoulers and a larger than over average overarm measurement. I want to tell a tailor the look I want -- as little padding as possible in the shoulders, elongating, slimming silhouette, suppressed waist. I then want to discuss stylistic options with the tailor and then once we agree, I want him to cut the pattern that achieves my goal in light of his house or preferred style -- whether that be A&S or Dege. I cannot tell him where exactly the button stance should be (I can express my opinion once it is on me), or how high the gorge should be because I want to rely on a competent tailor to make that decision in light of my desired goal. I don't want to micromanage a tailor in an area where I am not an expert anymore than I would hire a lawyer and then tell him how to draft a contract. Unfortunately, most tailors can't be bothered to listen and do what they want. Once they cut the pattern, all bets are off.

[alden]

Bry,

You make some excellent points. I would say that getting started with a talented, well intentioned and honest tailor is a bit of a challenge when you are beginning in bespoke. It’s near impossible if you are working with someone who is lacking any or all of the three.

You must first understand what it is you want, what use you are going to make of the clothes and what design features are most important to you. Then you must know how to communicate same. If you want an AS soft shoulder suit, you will not choose a Dege graduate. If you need a litigator, you would choose a litigator, not a patents specialist. Do we agree?

And when you are choosing your litigator, you will look to see what law school he graduated from and with what honors. You will probably like to know he has passed the BAR and is certified to practice law in your area. And you probably will know what firms he worked at previously and what positions he held. Was he a senior partner, partner, associate or a paralegal? You would be best advised to avoid entrusting your case to a paralegal posing as an attorney.

When you are explaining your legal needs to your chosen counsel, you will have prepared a detailed brief for him and be able to explain in detail what you require. He will ask many questions, testing you and getting a solid appreciation for the facts and situation. You will provide him with the detail he needs to represent you. Working with a tailor is like working with any other professional.

You do not need to micromanage a tailor, but over time with successive works you will learn what suits you best. The details that seem mysterious and arcane will become familiar to you. You will see more than you do now. And over time you will learn to communicate what you see and what you want more clearly to your craftsmen. And the results will improve.

Patience is a great resource and the tailor should be supplied with plenty as well.

Most importantly, one must understand that building a brilliant bespoke wardrobe is a process. It is not an event. It requires time, investment and craftsmen who are worthy of our custom and trust. In this regards, the LL Certified Artisans Program is becoming the Martindale-Hubbell resource much needed in the bespoke apparel trade.

Cheers

[Alias]

Bry, your post reminded me of my own past experiences with less-than-reputable "tailors" here in South Korea. A lot of them reside in the tourist area, hawking their wares to unwitting visitors. They have to be micromanaged or everything is lost; they will just make the suit their own way, which is often too boxy and too large.

If you're having trouble with bespoke tailors listening to you, maybe you should consider finding yet another.

Or, here's an idea. Before Mr. Min cut my DB he first showed me the paper pattern. He clearly marked the lapel width, gorge height, pockets, and button positions. We were able to tweak the pattern BEFORE the cloth was cut, and even then Mr. Min cut the cloth quite generously, allowing for larger adjustments if necessary. You might want to ask the same of your tailor.