Full Review - Richard Lim Tailor & Finished Summer Jacket

[coolal]

Very nice post Coolal. That is the first illustration where I could clearly see what tailors mean when they say posture can affect how a suit appears to fit. I think the jacket looks comfortable and sharp. Good choice on details.

However, it's interesting to see how the tailors own clothes don't seem to fit at all. I guess he just wants to be comfortable.

Thanks dempsy444, I'm glad you appreciate the details and the illustration of posture. It was a surprise, when I opened up the photos, to see the difference posture makes.

Non capisco le critiche fatti di alcuni , riguardo particolari a giacca finita, e confrontarla con altri.
Ignorano il fatto che a quel prezzo nessuna compagnia le da quel servizio.

La prima prova ( cosa che grante firme non fanno) gia questo le da il diritto di definirsi un abito su misura,
Su misura non e' seguire style , ma e' fare il vestito rispettando : misure, conformazione e non meno importante cio che il cliente vuole , esempio la forma dei petti ( che ad altri piacciano o no non e' importante.)

Chi paga molto di piu' del signore non ha la possibilita" di scelta : nei lapel , front, collar gorge . E spesso dovuto all'assenza della prima prova ad abito finito , ricevono la giacca : 2'' grante davanti , maniche 1" lunghi o corti ,

La figura del signore qualora volesse seguire style ,puo' benissimo vestire l"abito gia fatto. Ma il signore ha i suoi gusti vuole essere differente quind fa bene ad antare dal sarto.

I don't understand the critique of some regarding the details of the finished jacket and comparing it to others. They should know the fact that no tailoring house offers this level of service at this price point.
The first fitting (which some large houses skip) already gives it the right to be called bespoke.
Bespoke does not equal following style, but making the clothes according to: measurements, physical traits and, not least important, what the client desires, for instance the shape of the lapels (whether others like them or not is irrelevant).
Some who pay a lot more than the gentleman in question have no possibility to choose: the lapels, front, collar gorge. It is often due to the lack of the first fitting and then they receive the finished coat 2" too long in front, sleeves 1" too long or too short etc.
The physique of the gentleman allows him to go for RTW if he wanted to follow style. But he has his tastes and wants to look different, so he does well to go to a tailor.

Costi, thank you for translating Signor Mancuso's comments! Google translate was simply not up to the task. I really appreciated reading his thoughts on the details I'm experimenting with. Of course, I agree wholeheartedly with his view on bespoke not being limited to making clothing according to measurements, physical traits, and the house styles that sometimes override stylistic input. However, I also understand that bringing a lapel shaper to some (most?) bespoke tailors could be somewhat offensive. Nevertheless, it's refreshing to hear that there are other bespoke tailors, open to input on every level, like I'm used to.

[kamil]

One of the details of the first coat that I find particularly appealing is the roundness of the corners. A similar 'rounded style' is illustrated in this post: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/201 ... aceni.html . Now, I have a question that I hope a knowledgeable LL member will be kind enough to answer: how does a tailor blunt the corners? (of the breast pocket, vents, and sleeves). I asked this question under Jeffery's blog entry but have not received an answer yet. For some reason, local tailors in Warsaw, who are otherwise very flexible, find it hard and inconvenient to round the corners. When I placed my recent order (the first fitting is scheduled for June, and I very much hope to gain the know-how by then), I learned that this feature would entail an extra charge, which is quite unusual for this tailoring house. In my previous order at another tailor, the feature was delivered at no additional cost, but the results were mixed - I was only happy with the breat pocket, and the rest was done sloppily (sleeves) or not at all (vents).
Can someone please offer a hint?

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

Dear sir. Kamil.
Rispondo alla sua domanda : come fare gli angoli rotondi. Sperando che il Sig. Costi lo traduca.
Spiegare come fare sarebbe offensivo per qualuncque sarto, essendo per un sarto facile da farsi.
Debbo assumere che chi le sta facendo il vestito non e' un sarto , cioe' le prente le misure e lo manda a fare.
Il taschino a barchetta ( velt ) e' parte della buona sartoria Milanese e cosi' tutti i corner rotondi della giacca , fino gli anni 60. . Infatti in quasi tutta Italia : petti ,colli, taschino ecc.ecc. erano molto appuntiti, da notare che ci voleva piu' tempo a fare una punta di un doppio petto appuntita . Ma cio faceva parte ai gusti .
Riguardo il taschino a barchetta bisogna saperlo fare, il tempo e' dai 45 ,ai 60 minuti. mentre il taschino regolare si fa in 10 o 15 minuti. Parlo di tempi sartoriali .
Spero di esserle stato utile. ripeto finire : lapel,collar, sleeves, flaps ,vents round it is very simple.

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

Some picture of my work are on the londonlounge Bespoke forum -
Next week I will send you some picture shows a easy are to do round corner.

Regards
Giuseppe Mancuso

[kamil]

Would a member of the forum who speaks the language of Petrarka translate Giuseppe's reply, please?

[hectorm]

See below

[hectorm]

Would a member of the forum who speaks the language of Petrarka translate Giuseppe's reply, please?

My Italian is very rusty, but as a service to LL members and to give dear Costi a rest, this time I´ll give it a try and translate myself (my advanced apologies):

Dear Mr. Kamil.
Answering your question: how to make the corner angles round?
Explaining this to a tailor would be insulting since this is something fairly easy to make for any tailor. So I must assume that whoever is taking your measurements and ordering your suit is not a tailor himself.
A "boat" breast pocket (welt) as well as round corners in a jacket have been essential parts of Milan´s good tailoring craft up to the nineteen sixties. In fact, in almost all Italy, lapel, collar and breast pocket, were made very sharp and although making sharp edges for a DB point lapel jacket would take me more time, nevertheless I would oblige in order to satisfy my clients preferences.
Regarding the "boat" breast pocket, this is something that requires expertise to do it well. It takes something in between 45 and 60 minutes to finish it, while a regular breast pocket would only take between 10 and 15 minutes. I´m talking about the time spent by the tailor.
I hope I´ve been been helpful.
Let me finish this message repeating once more: to make round edges on lapels, collar, sleeves, flaps, and vents, is very simple.

[kamil]

Thank you very much, Giuseppe Mancuso and hectorm. Incidentally, the tailors I referred to are genuine tailors, and pretty decent ones, if not quite on par with their top Italian and British counterparts. AFAIK, tailoring techniques in Poland were historically influenced mostly by those used in Germany and Austria, where perhaps this art was not so commonly known as in Italy. Another explanation might be that it is one of those skills that was lost in the collective memory of the craftsmen as a result of the extremely sharp decrease in the number of practicing bespoke tailors in this country.

[dkst]

I really like this jacket. The rounded corners and lapel shape make it quite unique, in my opinion, and set it apart from anything you could easily find RTW. The cloth looks perfect for a summer jacket. The fit is spot on to my eye. And the value is unbelievable. I think you've found yourself an excellent tailor.

[kamil]

I really like this jacket. The rounded corners and lapel shape make it quite unique, in my opinion, and set it apart from anything you could easily find RTW. The cloth looks perfect for a summer jacket. The fit is spot on to my eye. And the value is unbelievable. I think you've found yourself an excellent tailor.

Any chance that you could ask your tailor how he rounds the corners? This is something I still don't know the answer to...

[davidhuh]

Dear Kamil,

use all your charm and talent, show him pictures. This is what I do when I want something unusual.

cheers, david

[Costi]

Thank you, dear hectorm, for saving the honour of the house with your excellent translation
And apologies to Sig. Mancuso...

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

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Thanks to : Mr. Hectorn and Mr. Costi for the translation.
Dear Kamil .
On the last post we talk about round corner. Make round corner do not make better tailor from who don't. Each tailor as a lily different detail , and that is part of have a suit made from a tailor.

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

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Side vent corner

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

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