John Pearse

[Troedyrhiw]

Re. my earlier post, I seem to have mixed up Frans and SimonC so apologies to both of them.

[Hesketh]

The only issue I have is that both collar lapels are 'puckering' slightly. Not sure if this is a tailoring fault or more a product of the fairly light weight cloth chosen but I will bring it to JP's attention when I am next in London.

This is probably not a fault, unless it is really excessive. You often see it with hand sewn edges. When the lapel is being made up it will be shaped with an iron and I think the cloth will always tend to "settle" slightly afterward, more so if it is lightweight, and cause the edge stitching to pull a little.

As a relatively impoverished Welshman with an expensive habit for vintage cars, I cannot really afford to use JP on a regular basis. Has anyone any experience of Fox Flannel's in-house tailor who, I understand, is ex-A&S? He is much more affordable and Somerset is more convenient for me than London.
Regards.

I feel for you. I have had to put a temporary halt to my suit ordering after having bought an Alvis a couple of years ago. Somehow, however carefully you plan your margins, they end up costing much more than you expect.
Rob

[Frans]

Re. my earlier post, I seem to have mixed up Frans and SimonC so apologies to both of them.

That is all right

Thank you very much for sharing your experience with both Mr. Pearse and Mr. Everest

[hectorm]

The only issue I have is that both collar lapels are 'puckering' slightly. Not sure if this is a tailoring fault or more a product of the fairly light weight cloth chosen.

This is probably not a fault, unless it is really excessive. You often see it with hand sewn edges.

While the "less than perfect" look of hand stitching should be noticeable, IMHO puckering of the lapels (even slight one) should not be present. Hand finishing should not entail uneven shrinking or settlement of the cloth vis a vis thread. This is something that could be taken into account by the tailor with soft pulls or the number of stitches, I guess (or pre-shrinking, but I don´t want to get controversial here). The only very slight "puckering" that I tolerate (and even find charming) is the one done on purpose where a much wider sleeve enters the arm hole at the shoulder. May be someone like LL member Old Henry could enlighten us more regarding this subject.

[Troedyrhiw]

Thank you to all who have replied on the 'puckering' issue. I think the lapel puckering is excessive but will try to post a 'photo so that I can get some further opinion before travelling to London to speak to JP.

Regards,

Troedyrhiw