Bespoke shirt (World Group, Bangkok) please comment

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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clehuray
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Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:09 pm

Dear Boardmembers,

I purchased some bespoke shirts while passing through Bangkok on holiday. I would really like to get comments on them. I'm quite pleased with how they have turned out, but don't really know what I should be looking for to be honest. The only thing I would say is that maybe the sleaves are too big; there's quite a lot of fabric under my arms. Any constructive comments will be appreciated!

Thanks,

Charlie
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alden
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:06 am

The only thing I would say is that maybe the sleaves are too big; there's quite a lot of fabric under my arms.
That's it. The armhole of the shirt is too big and probably the wrong shape, more like a RTW shirt. Get that fixed and you should be ok. Give yourself some tie space as well so the knot places itself more comfortably.

Cheers

Michael
aston
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Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:09 pm

Surely the arms are too long also, perhaps as much as 3/4 "? If Alden's proposed adjustments are made, then this may vary the length a tad, but currently they are too long.
clehuray
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Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:47 pm

Gentlemen, thank you both.

The sleeves are definitly too baggy and a little too long. The cuffs are also perhaps half an inch too wide. On the latter two points, I know how much to adjust the existing measurements. However, on the baggy sleeves, I am less clear. How much slack should there be in the upper arm of a shirt? This shirt has around six inches of slack around my upper arm. Other, better fitting shirts I own have perhaps four inches of slack, but now I've started looking, I'm beginning to wonder whether those are too baggy as well. Is there an accepted standard? I used safety pins to take two inches in on my right sleeve of the shirt in the picture below. I think it is an improvement on the unadjusted left sleeve.
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Noble Savage
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Tue Jan 10, 2012 3:40 am

clehuray wrote:The sleeves are definitly too baggy and a little too long. The cuffs are also perhaps half an inch too wide.
Although they might shrink after a few washes.
alden
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Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:50 pm

Yes, the smaller right armhole looks better. Your shirtmaker should understand this concept if you draw their attention to it. It is pretty fundamental stuff.

Michael
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