Charcoal coloured suit, what colour shoes?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

offshoresa65s
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Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:05 pm

Hello

My first post here at the LL, but long time visitor as they say.

I am currently waiting for the completion of my second bespoke suit. A charcoal coloured SB, two button suit, Thomas Fisher cloth.

I'd like to achieve a less formal appearance and I'm seeking advice on shoes.

I started off thinking that I would just wear plain black oxfords etc with my suit, but have been thinking, could I introduce burgundy or tan shoes ? Maybe even brogues ?

Any advice would be welcome

Yours, the satorially challenged

O
Concordia
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Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:10 pm

Black brogues?
kamil
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Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:50 pm

How about these C&J dark brown shell cordovan brogues? I think they look very dandy while not too informal and could achieve the dress-down effect without ostentation, so to speak.
Source: http://www.crockettandjones.com/Product ... -Darkbrown
Image
hectorm
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Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:25 am

offshoresa65s wrote:
I'd like to achieve a less formal appearance and I'm seeking advice on shoes.
Dear O, welcome to LL.
Actually wearing any other shoe than black plain or cap toe oxfords will make it less formal, but it would be very difficult to come up with the perfect advice without knowing the cut of your 2B charcoal suit and the weight of your TF cloth.
Is it a slim cut on a 8 oz kid mohair blend that could take tan suede loafers without socks? Or is it an English drape on a 11 oz 2/2 twill that could take heavier burgundy brogues?
Warwickshire
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Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:36 pm

How about something rich, a warm chestnut.
dempsy444
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Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:03 am

I think that Burgundy + Charcoal works well if the burgundy is darker. Here is a pair of dark burgundy shoes I have that go well with my charcoal suit. In the top photo, I have a charcoal swatch against the shoe.
hectorm
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Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:31 am

Offshoresa65s,
those chestnut and burgundy toe caps look nice and are a safe bet for the less formal look with the charcoal suit.
Since tan and brogues were also under your consideration hereby I submit four other more daring but stylish options that would involve -be prepared- some serious rule breaking. Take it not as my advice but just as an exercise for your exploration.
May be I would stay away from the derby (too country and heavy) and the loafer (too informal). Both oxfords, although also informal and with lots of punch holes, might be better, specially the wing tip on the left without the cap toe decorations (changing the lacing). In any case, IMO all these tan shoes are too light in color and informal in style for the charcoal suit and, although an Italian gentleman would not hesitate in wearing these combinations, you would be no doubt calling for (unwanted) attention.
Once more, it would be interesting to know the cut, weight and even texture of your charcoal suit for deciding the right way of going less formal.

Image
Last edited by hectorm on Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Concordia
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Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:48 am

http://www.perryercolino.com/warwick.php

Or in an Oxford, if you want a little more sleekness.
hectorm
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Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:43 am

A brief clip on pairing color of shoes with color of suit by Pierre Corthay, one of the leading young shoemakers of our time. I particularly liked his aubergine shoes for wearing with a charcoal suit. That would definitely reduce the level of formality but with grand style. Enjoy.

http://www.ruedesexperts.com/video/quel ... vMjI3.html
dempsy444
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Mon Jan 02, 2012 5:14 am

Definitely a stylish shoemaker. Look forward to visiting his store sometime.
Simon A

Mon Jan 02, 2012 5:48 am

I believe we might be "overthinking" this issue.

Relax. Wear your suit to a shoe store and try a few pairs on in front of a mirror. Which pairing of shoe colour and clothes do you like most? Then you have your answer.

I like wearing chocolate boots with charcoal suits, but you might be different. Enjoy yourself.
davidhuh
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Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:16 am

Simon A wrote:Relax. Wear your suit to a shoe store and try a few pairs on in front of a mirror. Which pairing of shoe colour and clothes do you like most? Then you have your answer.

I like wearing chocolate boots with charcoal suits, but you might be different. Enjoy yourself.
Excellent one Simon :D - rather than breaking your head, figure it out
a) on the shoes you already have
b) on the ones you might want to wear or buy

Taking the suit to a nice shoe store is good starting point. In the end, suit and shoes should somehow go together - but more than that: they should become part of yourself.

cheers, David
offshoresa65s
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Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:52 pm

Gentlemen

Thank you very much for your kind consideration and accompanying photo attachments to my post.

Hectorm, you asked for the type of material my suit was being made from and confess that I had to wait until my tailor was open today (2nd Jan '12) and obtain the correct description of the material. I was happy with my choice at time of ordering and didn't really take in the exact details, but here it is as follows.

Thomas Fisher, Fine Worsted, Catalogue Number 8962, 280 -310gm or 9 - 10 oz.

I requested a non vented back and and for the side pockets to be straight / horizontal, not angled, hence I probably wouldn't describe it as being slim fit.

Looking at the photos, I'm very taken with the darker shades of burgundy.

Just a comment on possibly one negative aspect of the advent of internet shopping, I live in Adelaide, Australia. We have a population approximately 1.2 million.

As just previously mentioned, with online shopping the range of clothing and in particular shoes in stores is very poor here in Adelaide.

Shoes are one thing I would not consider buying online, I feel one has to really try and buy and I am reasonably certain there is not a Bespoke shoemaker here in Adelaide.

Indeed, going shopping with said suit is good advice. Great, another excuse to visit Melbourne or Sydney and shop! There's even a slim chance I maybe travelling to London mid year.

If there there are any other Australians reading this post, any recommendations for shoe stores in Melbourne or Sydney would be appreciated.

Many thanks

O
hectorm
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Tue Jan 03, 2012 3:22 am

Very good choice of cloth Offshoresa65s. It will perform very well in Adelaide's hot weather and it will keep you virtually crease free. Now that I know the cut and texture of your suit better, I dare to say that plain cap toe shoes will look better than brogues.
I am also glad that you liked the burgundy ones. They will go very nicely with your charcoal suit, even better than black ones, specially in your sunny part of the world.
Happy New Year!
Mark Seitelman
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Wed Jan 04, 2012 4:19 pm

IMHO, black shoes are the dressiest and most proper for a charcoal suit.

If you wanted to venture away from black, go with burgandy (or oxblood or cordovan color) or the darkest brown that you can find (e.g., chocolate and expresso, which is almost black). Anything lighter will look jarring. E.g., mid-brown, whiskey, and British tan.

Although I have burgandy and the deep browns, I return more and more to black.
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