The art of altering old garments and making them fit

[All over the world]

In my other thread I talked about my cousin who never bought a new suit, he always inherited bespoke suits from his grandfathers and cousins and only had them altered yet they seem to fit him perfectly.

I was wondering to what extent a suit can be altered. Is it better to buy a suit that is too big? Too small? What if the shoulders are too large?

Basically, what can be done? What are the important things to look for when buying vintage garments from a thrift store or e-bay?

Thanks!

[MTM]

A lot depends on how skilled your alterations tailor is and how much money you're willing to spend. It's best to start with things that fit you well.

That said, some alterations are easy (on pants: hems and waist can be taken in or let out and the lower legs can be slimmed. On jackets, the sleeves can be raised a fair amount or lowered a bit, if the buttonholes aren't cut. And the waist can be taken in or let out.)

And others are tough but possible (for pants: the waistband can be lowered, pleats can be removed, etc. For jackets, the collar can be adjusted, the jacket can be shortened an inch or so, the lapels and pocket flaps can be slimmed, etc.)

[Mark Seitelman]

* * *

I was wondering to what extent a suit can be altered. Is it better to buy a suit that is too big? Too small? What if the shoulders are too large?

Basically, what can be done? What are the important things to look for when buying vintage garments from a thrift store or e-bay?

Thanks!

My wife buys mostly resale.

You can get good clothes at resale, but you must proceed carefully.

Here are some guidelines:

1. It is best to buy clothes that fit and that need miminal alterations. This is the first and most essential point.
It is easy to say that you must buy clothes that fit. The big question is knowing what fits. After some experience you will get a sense at what fits. After having buying suits for 34 years at the RTW, MTM, and bespoke, I have a sense of what fits and can work for me. Skip down to point # 4 on the need for a good tailor.

2. If you shop through eBay, only buy from merchants who have 100% satisfaction ratings and who will accept returns, no questions asked. Be aware that you will be responsible for the shipping which is not cheap for a suit.

3. There is a distinction between a thrift store and consignment or resale store:
a) Generally, a thrift store is run by a charity, and there are no returns. The prices can be very low. The inventory can be a mix between clothing which is ready for the scrap heap and things that have not been worn.
b) A consignment store is a private business which sells gently used or new clothing. Often, people consign pieces which have not been worn and still have the original tags. The prices are higher. However, the inventory will be excellent. It is more likely that you will find a high quality suit in excellent condition at a consignment store rather than a thrift shop.

4. You need to work with a good, local tailor who is honest. An honest tailor will tell you if an alteration is not practical and will turn-down the work. My wife's tailor has told her to skip a purchase if the alterations would be impractical. Only buy at a consignment store which allows returns so that you can bring the garment to your tailor to see if alterations are possible.

5. Good tailoring does not come cheap. My wife often pays $200 for an odd coat. I used to pay (20 years ago) $200+ with a local tailor. Therefore, only alter clothing that is worthwhile and will be worn.

6. Letting-in or letting-out a garment are fairly simple. The expensive work is re-cutting a garment, such as cutting down the shoulders and chest. Therefore, going back to point # 4, you have to weigh the cost of the alteration versus the value of the garment. $500 in alterations may not be worthwhile for a Hart Shaffner Marx suit.

7. I would be wary of buying of buying "vintage" clothes which are not in excellent, wearable condition.

Good luck.

[hectorm]

On jackets, the sleeves can be raised a fair amount or lowered a bit, if the buttonholes aren't cut.

Two accounts on sleeve alterations.
A few years ago I had the sleeves of one bespoke jacket shortened a good 1.5 inches. I thought it would be impossible to raise them because it had working buttonholes. But the tailor worked a miracle. The length was perfect, all the buttonholes continued to work and the distance between the last buttom and the end of the sleeve was the same.
Much more recently I took another jacket with working buttonholes (the 2 lower) for a similar job but to another tailor. I was totally dissapointed. The lenght was right but only the lower button continued to work and what was much worse, the buttonwhole which used to be the lower one had been closed and placed discretly at the inside edge of the sleeve. Also the distance between the last buttom and the end of the sleeve is way too short now.

Does this mean that the first tailor shortened the sleeves from the shoulder set? That must have been hard work.

[J.S. Groot]

Does this mean that the first tailor shortened the sleeves from the shoulder set? That must have been hard work.

I was under the impression that this is how tailors generally raise/shorten sleeves with working cuff buttons. The way I understand it is that it is indeed difficult work because the sleeve has to be re-set. More technically gifted members might elaborate. It is also decidedly more costly.

[hectorm]

But in the long run undertaking this higher cost it ´s soooooo much more worth while. And may be -technically- the only way to go.
I have been wearing this jacket with great satisfaction for many years, while the other jacket with the botched sleeve job is almost ruined. I say "almost" ruined because being a dark heavy wide wale corduroy sport jacket, the placement of the first and only working sleeve button could pass as an oddity. But is in the back of my mind, you know.

[Costi]

Does this mean that the first tailor shortened the sleeves from the shoulder set? That must have been hard work.

I was under the impression that this is how tailors generally raise/shorten sleeves with working cuff buttons. The way I understand it is that it is indeed difficult work because the sleeve has to be re-set. More technically gifted members might elaborate. It is also decidedly more costly.

Coat sleeves are normally altered from the shoulder seam. Yes, quite a bit of work (and risks). Only shirt sleeves are altered from the cuff (also removing the sleeve placket, recutting the slit to normal length and reattaching the placket).

[hectorm]

Coat sleeves are normally altered from the shoulder seam. Yes, quite a bit of work (and risks).

Thank you Costi.
I got so interested in the subject that I started reading more about it. The very informative article in the link below explains about sleeve pitch and all the risks involved in removing and resetting a sleeve from the shoulder. Unbelievable but in my 41 years of familiarity with bespoke I´ve been totally ignorant about these nuances. I guess I´ve not been an educated consumer. After reading the article I can fully appreciate now the very good work done by my tailor a few years back.

http://www.englishcut.com/2006/05/03/hi ... low-pitch/