Overcoats

[rewozz]

I just had my first MTM overcoat made; I went with the classic navy Crombie. I had one alteration made though, I removed the breast pocket for a cleaner look.
I was a bit skeptical at first when I saw the coat thinking it looked black, but then I checked the Crombie website and found theirs (100% Cashmere) looking just as dark.



I noticed they also had a version in Melton wool (mine is 90% Wool 10% cashmere), it looks better in my opinion; which one do you prefer?



In any case, I was happy with the results and though I'd go for a classic herringbone Chesterfield next. I opened Bernhard Roetzel's Gentleman to take a look (right) and lo and behold!



High buttoning stance, ticket pocket, pick-stitching, and slanted pockets; are these all standard? And how many buttons are there behind the fly front? My Crombie overcoat has 3.
On a tangent, I also noticed the Covert Coat (right):



It reads "Short and slim: that is the covert coat." — really? Take a look at this:



The covert coat is neither short nor slim, it looks just like it should; proper length and enough room for a suit under it.
And what's up with the four parallel decorative seams on the pocket, where are they; should you get them?

[rewozz]

Come on gents, important questions need answering!

[arkirshner]

As the question limits the choice to one coat it makes sense to choose the most versatile. As it is formal enough to wear with a suit, yet informal enough to throw over a shirt, the polo coat is the most versatile, and thus would be my choice.

[rewozz]

That is certainly a respectable opinion, but I was thinking more of the questions in my previous post.

[Warwickshire]

rewozz, your MTM overcoat looks absolutely superb, a beautiful fit and truly the colour for all occassions. I have a navy Burberry, double breasted and a more slim-line single breasted Feraud in chocolate-brown. However if it did come to just the one, I would probably choose the navy....or would I? mmmmmmmmmmm???

[rewozz]

Hehe, well it's not me in the pictures; it's from http://crombie.co.uk

[Warwickshire]

Funny you should say that, I didn't think it was you because I thought why isn't he wearing his trade-mark Berluti shoes?

[arkirshner]

.

And what's up with the four parallel decorative seams on the pocket, where are they; should you get them?

They are vestigial features from the days when it's ancestor was a riding coat. Why not get them, they add interest.

[arkirshner]

I just had my first MTM overcoat made; I went with the classic navy Crombie. I had one alteration made though, I removed the breast pocket for a cleaner look.
I was a bit skeptical at first when I saw the coat thinking it looked black, but then I checked the Crombie website and found theirs (100% Cashmere) looking just as dark.



I noticed they also had a version in Melton wool (mine is 90% Wool 10% cashmere), it looks better in my opinion; which one do you prefer?

The second is preferable, as it is the proper length.

[arkirshner]

High buttoning stance, ticket pocket, pick-stitching, and slanted pockets; are these all standard?

The ticket and slanted (hacking) pockets are not standard on Chesterfields, they are more properly elements of country coats.

[rewozz]

Arkirshner, what about the different nuances of navy? Like I said, mine is so dark it practically looks like black; the second one in my post is a lot more like what I had in mind.

[arkirshner]

Arkirshner, what about the different nuances of navy? Like I said, mine is so dark it practically looks like black; the second one in my post is a lot more like what I had in mind.

Yes, there are almost an infinite shades, tints, tones, nuances as you put it, of navy cloth. I liken the existence of so many shades of cloth as akin to the almost infinite shades of women's hair, each different and each beautiful. Still, every man will have his own preference. In comparison to your first example, my Crombie is made of a somewhat clearer, less muted melton . However, IMO, the most striking blue for a coat is that on the following pictures of the Paddock coat:




http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Wbd-uMYmb_4/S ... k+coat.jpg

and

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Wbd-uMYmb_4/S ... t+back.jpg


Incidentally, Mr. Alden chose the Paddock coat as the inspiration for a London Lounge Limited Edition.

Mr. Alden, being partial toward grey, had this version made :

http://www.englishcut.com/888889002overcoat1.jpg



The point being, so far as color is concerned, returns to preference. Your second example is more muted with a touch of grey. Different than your first example, not superior, not inferior, just different. We are fortunate today that there are so many different fabrics available, thus allowing each man to wear his preferred shade.

[rewozz]

Thank you, and yes the Paddock coat shade in those pictures is excellent; I'm afraid mine is a bit to dark for my taste, but it will have to do!

[hectorm]

I had one alteration made though, I removed the breast pocket for a cleaner look.

Hello rewozz,
what made you think that a breast pocket was not part of the already very clean look of your classic Crombie? You are tinkering with perfection here (although I give you that´s one of the prerogatives of MTM).
Besides, where are you going to put your gloves now?

[rewozz]

Good question, I keep my gloves mostly in one of my flap pockets with the fingers sticking up like many (fashionable) men like to wear them in their breast pocket. I never liked the look of gloves in the breast pocket, I'd rather stuff it with a thick linen pocket square instead; if anything. On a second note, one of the small joys of MTM is indeed to alter small things so that you don't end up looking like everyone else.