Double Breasted Overcoat with Double Breasted Suit or Jacket

[Simon A]

I am not aware of any such taboo. You are either wearing an overcoat done up or not at all, so who can see what kind of jacket you wear anyway?

[Costi]

I have heard this formulated as a "rule" before, but am unable to quote an authoritative source. As most "rules", it has a practical aspect: in the case of a DB o overcoat worn over a DB suit, there are just too many layers of cloth bulking up over one's chest (same with DB waistcoat under a DB suit coat); while in the case of a SB over SB the buttoning lines of coat and overcoat coincide and also add bulk to the front, so it is better to offset them by alternating SB with DB.

[Etutee]

Esquire or GQ recently said that you don't wear a DB overcoat with a DB suit or jacket as it is overkill and should not be done (implying that doing so is a faux pas). Is this true? Or, are Esquire and GQ full of it?

Dear Audi S5

Costi above has pointed out a few aspects accurately. It is indeed better to alternate. However, also remember that in today's Esquire/GQ or pretty much any general understanding of sartorial rules.... double breasted jackets are viewed as more formal than SB and certainly DB suits. However, traditionally DB jackets/suits are more casual. They are a metropolitan cut indeed but still always behind SB 3-pc in formality and equal to (or perhaps slightly less than) a SB 2-pc. Similarly, a DB 3-pc suit is always less formal than SB 3-pc suit.

The keyword here in understanding why they are saying this is "overkill" or if they suggesting it. Does not make them fully wrong or right, they are just going along with mainstream conventions.

Similarly today pleated pants are 99% viewed as more formal whereas in traditional (strict) menswear they are less formal than plain-front pants.

Carry On!

Note: There are a few exception to the various formality levels of these garments as with anything but it is generally true.

[Gruto]

As most "rules", it has a practical aspect

Costi, isn't that a polite interpretation? Historically, many "rules" seem to be about social distinction rather than practicality. I can't help thinking of Tom Wolfe's The secret Vice: http://thematerialist.net/secretvice.html

Luckily, we are much more free to dress the way we like today, and I guess it should possible to wear a db jacket with a db coat, if the material isn't bulky.

[Simon A]

If dressed for business in the winter, one is either wearing a waistcoat with a SB jacket, or a DB jacket. So there is little difference in the thickness of fabric over the chest in either configuration.

It is -10 degrees C with a 30 knot wind the past few days, so I am glad of as much chest coverage as possible, plus a storm collar, scarf and karakul ushanka