Fabric for a Navy Blazer (My first bespoke project)

[unbelragazzo]

Gentlemen,
I apologize for a n00b question that may or may not have been asked a thousand times in this forum before (although I did do a quick search and didn't turn up anything exactly right). Anyway, I'm looking to get a mid-weight navy blazer done up, likely by Napoli su Misura. So it'll be soft shoulder spalla camicia, etc...

I have a summer blazer, unlined, very light weight, in kind of a brighter blue. This will be a fall/winter blazer, but in DC, so it's never getting terribly cold. I'll get patch pockets - for the buttons, I haven't totally decided yet, but I'm leaning towards a brown horn instead of anything metal. I'm pretty fair skinned with medium brown hair, so I don't want to go too dark on the color of this one either. But mainly I'm looking for some fabric that has some life in it, with some nice texture, especially to set it apart from a worsted that looks like it's an orphaned suit jacket. Any suggestions for a fabric, or at least a book I should look at? Definitely willing to pay for a fabric that I like. Thanks in advance.

Edit: Just found the 'Ultimate Blue Blazer Fabrics' thread in 'Best of'...but further questions: If you plan to wear your blazer with flannel trousers a fair amount, would flannel for the jacket as well be a bad choice then? Is a wool basketweave something that gives more texture?

[alden]

Edit: Just found the 'Ultimate Blue Blazer Fabrics' thread in 'Best of'...but further questions: If you plan to wear your blazer with flannel trousers a fair amount, would flannel for the jacket as well be a bad choice then? Is a wool basketweave something that gives more texture?

A little surface interest in the way of a herringbone or hopsack weave is always helpful. A flannel cloth is a fine idea with flannel trousers, but you can wear other fabrics as easily.

[soren]

How about the RAF blue hopsack as discussed here? It might be a bit heavy for your liking, but I plan on having a blazer made from it anyway (if we can find enough members to make it to production, that is;) )

Cheers,
Soren

[rodes]

I live in Pennsylvania, somewhat colder than DC but not much. The blazer that I like for cold weather is single breasted, 13 ounce flannel with pewter buttons which seem to go very well with gray flannel trousers. I always enjoy wearing it. The weight is a touch light for me, perhaps just right for you.

[unbelragazzo]

Thanks so much, guys.

Soren: Could you link me discussion to the RAF hopsack? I searched, but found only you asking about it in the Fall 2011 Cloth Club thread.

Rodes: I think 13 oz is about what I need. Is it a bad idea to go with horn buttons on a blazer? Does everyone go with metal buttons to uphold the military tradition and/or to set it apart from an orphaned suit jacket? I feel like once I go patch pocket, single breasted, and a fabric such as these, I'm sufficiently far away from the military origins or the garment as well as most suit jackets that I don't have to worry about these things. And for some reason I usually don't like the metal buttons, particularly if they're too busy. I have brass buttons on my summer blue blazer, but they're sufficiently toned down that I decided to keep them.

[unbelragazzo]

A little surface interest in the way of a herringbone or hopsack weave is always helpful. A flannel cloth is a fine idea with flannel trousers, but you can wear other fabrics as easily.

Michael,
Is there any particular herringbone that you'd recommend? Particularly one that isn't too dark, with some definite blue in it.
Thanks!

[soren]

Oh sorry, forgot to post the link: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10002

And the photos of Mr. Alden's coat from the fabric (although I think that was a sharkskin/pick-and-pick, but the colour at least the same) are here http://www.fashionising.com/pictures/p- ... 28648.html and http://img197.imageshack.us/i/capturepic.jpg/

Cheers, Soren

[Costi]

Is it a bad idea to go with horn buttons on a blazer? Does everyone go with metal buttons to uphold the military tradition and/or to set it apart from an orphaned suit jacket? I feel like once I go patch pocket, single breasted, and a fabric such as these, I'm sufficiently far away from the military origins or the garment as well as most suit jackets that I don't have to worry about these things.

Horn buttons perfect in this configuration.

[alden]

Is there any particular herringbone that you'd recommend? Particularly one that isn't too dark, with some definite blue in it.

I don't know of one that is the right shade of blue. They all tend to be too dark (for my eye.) Stay tuned we may have to make it here.

Michael

[soren]

Stay tuned we may have to make it here.

Lets do it!

[unbelragazzo]

Oh sorry, forgot to post the link: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10002

And the photos of Mr. Alden's coat from the fabric (although I think that was a sharkskin/pick-and-pick, but the colour at least the same) are here http://www.fashionising.com/pictures/p- ... 28648.html and http://img197.imageshack.us/i/capturepic.jpg/

Cheers, Soren

This blue is gorgeous, but I think the fabric is a bit shinier than I'm looking for (might be just the pictures). Is it ridiculous to get a 14-oz jacket in Fresco as a fall/winter blazer in a warm weather clime?

[Costi]

If you don't mind the windchill factor... e' per quello che si chiama "fresco"

[unbelragazzo]

Si ' si' ho capito - but it comes in diff weights which must vary in how warm they wear no? So I guess my question is, would you be freezing wearing a 14 oz fresco blazer if it were 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit?

[unbelragazzo]

I don't know of one that is the right shade of blue. They all tend to be too dark (for my eye.) Stay tuned we may have to make it here.

Michael

Don't worry, I won't touch that dial! I'm definitely interested....

[Costi]

Si ' si' ho capito - but it comes in diff weights which must vary in how warm they wear no? So I guess my question is, would you be freezing wearing a 14 oz fresco blazer if it were 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit?

The weights make a difference mainly in drape: the heavier, the better (in my opinion). If it's sunny and no wind, you might not freeze in fresco at 40 F (but not feel particularly warm, either). The slightest breeze will send you shivering in the first sidewalk bar: that means a few too many cups of espresso to get from one point of the town to another, so it might prove an expensive cloth to wear in winter
I would go with serge or flannel for the cold months.