Cloth recommendations for bespoke overcoat

[R.O. Thornhill]

I am having a bespoke overcoat made by Steed - and would value the input of the LL membership as I consider cloth choices,

The coat will be a pretty formal City DB - 6x2, peak lapels (naturally), flapped hip pockets, welted breast pocket, turnback cuffs and pleated rear vents.

I am looking for a dark navy wool cloth (it will be my primary winter coat, for everday use, so cashmere strikes me as a bad idea). Any sort of ideas as to what books are good, and what weight I should go for would be most appreciated. In terms of weight - I am based in London so will not have to deal with particularly drastic temperatures

[Simon A]

Harrisons have a nice 20 oz navy camelhair, which is more robust than cashmere but less so than wool. They also have an 18oz 85% wool/15% camelhair. The Thomas Fisher book has some good solid 25 oz navy twill in wool.

I can't resist; what does the "O" stand for?

[cathach]

Hello All,

What is the heaviest wool or camelhair fabric available for overcoating these days? I was comparing a 32oz cavalry twill there from an English merchant with an old overcoat of my father's, and it is still considerably lighter by a considerable degree. I'm a great fan of this coat and its the only one that is really windproof, and I'd love to recreate it. Suggestions most welcome.

[Concordia]

A&S have something they use for the "British Warm" overcoat-- it's sort of a tan plywood. Don't know exactly the weight, however.

[Rowly]

the "British Warm" overcoat-- it's sort of a tan plywood.

If you really want it warm....go for hardwood, perhaps mahogany...and consider having the buttons double-glazed.

[Costi]

the "British Warm" overcoat-- it's sort of a tan plywood.

If you really want it warm....go for hardwood, perhaps mahogany...and consider having the buttons double-glazed.

Or fur tree...

[cathach]

A&S have something they use for the "British Warm" overcoat-- it's sort of a tan plywood. Don't know exactly the weight, however.

I know the one you're talking about, I think its from Harrisons, the trouble is I just cannot abide drab shades like that. I'd much prefer a 'cinnamon' shade of camelhair, or plain black or navy wool. As it is I can't seem to find anything like that or a British Warm in any other shade than drab industrial carpet.

[Frog in Suit]

I would recommend you have a look at a 25 oz. charcoal (herringbobne weave) by Dugdale ref. 6306. An amazing cloth. almost spongy, it is so thick, yet with an amazing feel of resilience and toughness. Mine is from Jones Chalk & Dawson (Meyer & Mortimer) and it should outlive me... and keep me warm until then. There are other references in the same book.
Frog in Suit

[NJS]

I would recommend you have a look at a 25 oz. charcoal (herringbobne weave) by Dugdale ref. 6306. An amazing cloth. almost spongy, it is so thick, yet with an amazing feel of resilience and toughness. Mine is from Jones Chalk & Dawson (Meyer & Mortimer) and it should outlive me... and keep me warm until then.
Frog in Suit

If it's that good...it could keep you warm after then...
NJS

[Frog in Suit]

I would recommend you have a look at a 25 oz. charcoal (herringbobne weave) by Dugdale ref. 6306. An amazing cloth. almost spongy, it is so thick, yet with an amazing feel of resilience and toughness. Mine is from Jones Chalk & Dawson (Meyer & Mortimer) and it should outlive me... and keep me warm until then.
Frog in Suit

If it's that good...it could keep you warm after then...
NJS

I shall come back and haunt the London Lounge.....

Frog in Suit

[Rowly]

I suppose there's no point asking you to keep cool!

[alden]

Mr. Thornhill

It depends on how you plan to use the coat. Do you commute by car? If so, you might consider a medium weight cloth on the soft side. The coat will be easier to manage. if you rarely use a car and spend a good deal of time walking and need real protection from the elements then you would do well with a heavier cloth. That is my situation and you may have seen some of the coats I have made as a consequence. They are sturdy specimens.

Cheers

Michael

[R.O. Thornhill]

Mr Alden et al - thank you very much for your advice

In the end I went with an 18oz navy pure wool clothc from Harrisons. I wanted something sturdy, but not too warm - the London climate rarely requires it

Based on conversations with Edwin I decided to jettison the turnback cuffs, but the rest remains as intended (6x2DB, peak lapels, welted breast pocket, pleated rear vents)

Am very happy with how it is coming along. At our first fitting we decided to shorten it 2 inches, to end just at/below the knee. Look forward to a second fitting next week

Thornhill